1.6 stock ecu budget t3 turbo build help!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...df5a694e7.jpeg
So I recently watched Greg Peters do the broke and boosted project and decided I wanted to do the same on my 1.6 93. I currently have a Vortech fmu, 1.8 injectors, a t3 cast log style manifold, an innovate mtxl wideband and a aem truboost solenoid and gauge. I would also like to run an intercooler (probably an eBay cx racing one) I’m looking to get around 150-160whp running around 7 or 8psi but don’t understand turbo sizes and am worried I will buy a turbo that is too large and will not spool. My budget is around $250 for this turbo however I’m willing to budge if it’s worth while. Before I get yelled at for not running a stand-alone ecu i will eventually upgrade to Megasquirt at a later time I just thought it would be smart and economical to go little by little as this would be my introduction to the turbo world. Any tips through this process would be a huge help, thank you! |
|
Originally Posted by Evan Dowd
(Post 1447844)
I just thought it would be smart and economical to go little by little
The words to describe it are: stupid and idiotic. Also waste of money. Spending money twice, and buying parts no one will want or need, is never smart. |
Definitely install turbo and drive it.
Then down the road, much time afterwards, install the thing that lets you run turbo safely. |
I am around that power level on an intercooled supercharger setup.
The best improvement I made to the car was installing a stand alone, even when N/A, bar none. Everything ran better, the car responded quicker, eveything worked. Do it right and do it once. Can you do stock ecu, yeah. But the amount of time you are going to spend trying to get it to run well just isn't worth it. |
I wonder how many good cars that stupid series has ruined.
|
Originally Posted by Monk
(Post 1447888)
I wonder how many good cars that stupid series has ruined.
|
Originally Posted by Monk
(Post 1447888)
I wonder how many good cars that stupid series has ruined.
|
Buy a standalone, learn to tune the car N/A. You get a much wider margin of error to work with compared to having a turbo.
Do it right or buy it twice. Greg even says in his videos, hes is only a fish in a sea of information. Is a setup like that possible? Yes, of course, that was the point of the B&B series. But he also clarifies that its not the /proper/ way to go about boosting a miata. If youre going to buy the standalone, you should only ever buy it first. Use the video series to understand the concepts behind adding the turbo, not as a guideline for your own build. |
The sequel is "Broke and Walking, My Search for a Replacement Engine I Can Afford"
|
I'll tell you what, I there were days I would miss the simplicity and consistency of my FMU/Bipes setup....
keep it under 7psi, with conservative timing, and it will be fine until you can finally upgrade. |
I’d only be running it for a month maybe then it would be stored for winter and come spring I wi haves standalone and new clutch. Like I said it’s more to see if I could do it because a lot of the parts needed for it just happened to fall into my hands. I just need help deciding on a t3 turbo that will work well on low boost 4,5,6,7 psi and really well come spring when I have the standalone.
|
Originally Posted by Evan Dowd
(Post 1447966)
I’d only be running it for a month maybe then it would be stored for winter and come spring I wi haves standalone and new clutch. Like I said it’s more to see if I could do it because a lot of the parts needed for it just happened to fall into my hands. I just need help deciding on a t3 turbo that will work well on low boost 4,5,6,7 psi and really well come spring when I have the standalone.
|
not with a 3" exhaust at least. The wastegate on my real garret T3 50 trim, with my 2.5" DP and 2.25" exhaust could keep me at 6psi. :P
|
Originally Posted by Evan Dowd
(Post 1447966)
I’d only be running it for a month maybe then it would be stored for winter and come spring I wi haves standalone and new clutch. Like I said it’s more to see if I could do it because a lot of the parts needed for it just happened to fall into my hands. I just need help deciding on a t3 turbo that will work well on low boost 4,5,6,7 psi and really well come spring when I have the standalone.
|
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1447952)
I'll tell you what, I there were days I would miss the simplicity and consistency of my FMU/Bipes setup....
keep it under 7psi, with conservative timing, and it will be fine until you can finally upgrade. |
it was just set and forget is all; there was something nice about that.
also remember a lot of what we were doing was pioneering too, so I was constantly wrenching and breaking shit with shitty custom parts. There were times I missed just running 170rwhp, on the stock ecu, on a setup that was reliable each and every day. that's all. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1448002)
it was just set and forget is all; there was something nice about that.
also remember a lot of what we were doing was pioneering too, so I was constantly wrenching and breaking shit with shitty custom parts. There were times I missed just running 170rwhp, on the stock ecu, on a setup that was reliable each and every day. that's all. In this kind of situation, what would your recommendation be? Given it comes with the corollary that megasquirt makes so much more sense. |
I wouldn't attempt to boost an NB on a stock ecu.
remember I had a 1.failaides |
set it and never forget it cause every time you drive it, you're reminded of the mediocrity
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:50 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands