Is 3" all the way a good thing!!
Hello, I can't figure out if i should go with 3" downpipe all the way or 2.5".
What the difference besides more air flow and looks. |
cost, exhaust volume, and fitting are the negatives of 3 inch vs 2.5.
Frank |
Originally Posted by fmowry
(Post 162846)
exhaust volume
I'm the same boat. at start I was tempted to do all 3" for future upgrades... but now I think that 2,5" is more than enough for what I want:gay: |
didn't we JUST have a thread about this?
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ohh sorry i didn't check to see if there was one
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3" isn't really any louder with all things being equal. You can have a near silent but well flowing 3" system.
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corky says that your downpipe MUST start at the size of your turbo outlet flange, and should only increase from there at no more than 15 degrees at a time. a sudden change in size, and therefore pressure, will result in a turbulent flow, and therefore more drag, making it less efficent than a smoothly changed diameter pipe.
after that, 3" would be better(no exhaust would be best) but a 2.5" system that is smoother with less restrictions would be better than a 3" system with shitty welds and lots of bends. |
I don't think it matters. Hondas make 700+whp with 3" turbo back exhausts. I doubt "turbulent" flow is a concern in their minds when it comes to the exhaust.
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Is there any dyno proof of corky's theory? I don't doubt the theory, but I do doubt that the turbulence has any noticeable negative effect on flow in a real-world application.
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There is no dyno proof as far as I know. As far as I'm concerned there is no such thing as non-turbulent flow exiting a turbine.
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Originally Posted by Tesseracter
(Post 163020)
corky says that your downpipe MUST start at the size of your turbo outlet flange, and should only increase from there at no more than 15 degrees at a time. a sudden change in size, and therefore pressure, will result in a turbulent flow, and therefore more drag, making it less efficent than a smoothly changed diameter pipe.
after that, 3" would be better(no exhaust would be best) but a 2.5" system that is smoother with less restrictions would be better than a 3" system with shitty welds and lots of bends. I'm all for 3" as soon as you can get it. To me its the best compromise of size/cost/fitment/sound etc... On that note... I won't run any turbo car with less than 3" at this point. Did I mention that the 3" off the turbo and all the way back... is on my beater? |
Toyota Supras start at 4" downpipes, and they make 5" and even 6" downpipes. You want a 3" downpipe.
BEGI's 2.75" DP starts at 2.25" or so and steps up slowly like Corky talks about to the end size. You can have them make it into a 3" DP at the end for another $30 or so. Order up a 3" Enthuza setup, and the car will be nice and quiet and flow very nicely. |
Avoid turbulence (easier said than done).
Avoid steps and abrupt transistions in size. Mandrel-bent pipes. Swage the pipes so pipe inlets fit "over" the previous pipe's outlet. Avoid sharp turns or protruberances. Use quality catalytic convertor and muffler. Reduce backpressure as much as possible after the turbo. Separate the wastegate flow from the main flow. Don't forget you have to fit all of that under the car and into the engine compartment. The larger everything is the more likely the exhaust will bang on the frame under cornering or when the engine torques. Mazda Competition's racing motor mounts helped my car significantly. My system that Corky custom-built for me? Downpipe entry: 4 inches square area Downpipe to cat: 4.9 inches square Mid-pipe: 7.1 inches square Muffler inlet: 8 inches square Exhaust outlet: 9.6 inches square And...he guaranteed me at least one horsepower increase over stock. Pretty good deal in my book.... Barry PS. I'm still waiting to hear confirmation from Corky about the final details of the Bonneville Streamliner on which he modified the intercooling system. The fellow who ran that Streamliner and another one (the guy makes a good living) at Bonneville set a new class record and, first time at Bonneville, became the 8th fastest human on wheels. Corky does good work. Now...time for me to get back to work. |
yep sounds like my new setup:
turbo is 2.25" outlet DP 2.5" steps to 2.75" test pipe 2.75" steps to 3.0" catback 3.0" to the tip. |
Mines gonna be 3" turbo back.
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Originally Posted by BEGITechRep
(Post 163244)
And...he guaranteed me at least one horsepower increase over stock. Pretty good deal in my book....
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
(Post 163261)
Mines gonna be 3" turbo back.
you mean: 4" to 3" turbo back. :gay: |
thats what i said :P
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 163062)
Toyota Supras start at 4" downpipes, and they make 5" and even 6" downpipes. You want a 3" downpipe.
BEGI's 2.75" DP starts at 2.25" or so and steps up slowly like Corky talks about to the end size. You can have them make it into a 3" DP at the end for another $30 or so. Order up a 3" Enthuza setup, and the car will be nice and quiet and flow very nicely. |
Thanks BEGITechRep and others for stepping in and helping me out. Maximum boost and the BEGI website is fresh in my mind, but since I dont have a turbo yet, I feel like I dont have any real rep points here. when someone starts spouting their HP PSI details at me, ive got nothing to go on, unless they have tried scientific studies with various sized pipes.
i also am aiming for a similar goal as corky's engineering goal, which is the most HP per PSI, not total PSI. once I get my system up and running, then I can start bouncing numbers back when people say "ZOMG, ive got 30 more HP than you running 15 more PSI!!!1" |
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