All fixed up! (Pics)
 

Replaced all my pressurized pipes with better silicone and t-clamp.

Installed a wastegate with an adjustable bracket for a better mounting position

Installed radiator scoop for a little better cooling

performed the parrell fan mod as well

Just need to install my new pads and brake fluid and I should be good for my next track event in late Aug :bigtu:

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed001.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed002.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed003.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed004.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed005.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed006.jpg

I'm sick of seeing clean engine bays. Going to have to do something about my 14 years of crud.:eek:

HAHA, everytime I open the hood I have a rag with me. The duct gets it pretty dirty and I only take pictures AFTER I've wiped it all down.

where did u get the clamps and couplers?

your brake fluid looks like washer fluid. Made me do a double take :rofl:

It's a mix of regular fluid and Super Blue, it's going to be flushed out.

Loki, Atpturbo.com

haha i was thinking the same thing. Probably a good idea to start fresh, is that super blue compatible with other fluids, i thought it wasnt.

whats the fan mod?
what does it allow you to do?


stuff looks good man :bigtu:

the fan mod lets you run the fans A/C, and Rad fans parralel instead of the AC being on only when the A/C is in use this increases the CFM you have blowing through the Rad and makes coolling more efficient.

I'm very curious to see your results with cooling scoop. There are two schools of thought - the scoop adds more air for increased flow OR the scoop actually disturbs the flow of air coming in the mouth and decreases the efficiency of flow. IMO the only way to figure out is to test it. I went the route of totally sealing off the mouth. I know that the reason most cars (and race cars) have small mouths with larger rad/IC/condenser surfaces to actually accelerate the air upon entry.
interesting stuff here

I'll be back at the track at the end of Aug. Otherwise I've never had a problem overheating on the street, even with the undertray off. It will take about 2 minutes to remove it so if it still starts to creep up in temps I can easily make runs without it and see the difference. If that doesn't work I'm going to be working on something that mounts to the same points but is flush with bottom of the oem splitter so only air comming into the mouth goes into it.

I ran Seafoam into it this afternoon. Sure did burn off a lot of gunk, idle smoothed way out (not that it wasn't already smooth), made the engine quite up a bit and it gained vacuum. I was impressed felt a lot smoother throughout the revs.

I finally swapped out my front pads with EBC Redstuff. Just bedding them in and I could feel the difference between those and the Greenstuff, however I think these bite from cold just as well. I'll have to see what it's like after I swap out the rears and bleed/flush the system. I completely destroyed my Greenstuff's on the track, they were cracked and failing apart and lost a lot of depth....at least they worked.

if any 1 needs the fan mod here it is.
http://www.miata.net/hakuna/parallel...%20wiring.html

yep..that's what i used. I didn't solder my connections but I'm going to go back and do it. I like the smell.

Why is your mass air flow meter upside down?

Looks like he did it to help it fit a little better in that corner. Placing it upside down should make no difference at all, however, placing it on its side might make a minute difference due to gravity (especially if you have a loosened flapper door spring).

The top stuck up too much and I couldn't close the hood. Upside down and it fit better.

about your brakes, im flushing out my old fluid and replacing it with some motul synthetic, do you know if just flushing it is enough to clear the system of the old fluid or will i have to run something through the system to get rid of all the old fluid before putting in the synthetic.

I was visiting the guys at ART (Spec Miata folks) last year and they should me several dyno runs with the MAF in different positions. They contend that the power curve is smoother when it's on it's side, because the flapper door is working against gravity and doesn't jiggle (like when it's horizontal). Who knows if this will make any difference. Spec folks are always looking for a little bit of an edge.

That's pretty interesting, Ike. May be worth playing around with one day, since I was planning to re-do my whole intake tract at some point anyway.

Just make sure you are using something compatable with DOT 3. A DOT 5 will not mix, and will potentially eat away your lines. A DOT 5.1 is perfectly safe and is good till 600* wet boiling point (ATE Super Blue). Make sure it's not a silicone brake fluid, they should never be used. If mosture gets into a silicone brake fluid it can cause a loss of the braking system.

To Flush:

For ABS do this order: Driver Rear - Pass. Rear - Driver Front - Pass. Front
For Non-ABS do this order: Pass. Rear - Driver Rear - Pass. Front - Driver Front

Then tell your helper to step on the pedal and press down gently but firmly. Open the bleeder valve and watch the fluid as it flows through the clear hose into the clear glass or bottle. Bleed as you would normally. When the fluid color changes from grungy black to some thing closer to what the new fluid looks like, you can stop. Close the bleeder valve and go to the next wheel brake. Be very sure to add fresh brake fluid up to the level in the reservoir every single time. (Basicly you do the brakes as normal but allow for the new fluid to get through each line)

For ABS before moving to the next wheel:
Before you do the final top-off (it might overflow), have your helper apply the brakes over and over, to exhaust the high-pressure reservoir of the ABS. This will cause the level in the master cylinder reservoir to rise slightly. It may take 25 to 35 pedal applications to do this, but when the level stops rising after a couple of dozen, that should be it. (There's a miata myth that the ABS will always store air pockets in it, which leads to the spongy pedal feel. I think doing this last step helps, at least it doesn't hurt)


This might not be how everyone else does it, but it's how I've done it. A vacuum pump makes things easy as well.

I wonder if keeping it on the side a adds slight resistance, leaning the system out ever so slightly, adding more power?

I'm actually changing out my brake lines and pads this weekend. I thought when flushing out the brake fluid you start with the passenger front-> passenger rear-> driver rear -> driver front->

How do other people flush out their brake fluid?

I guess I'll check my manual before I begin.

--sorry for the thread jack

you always want to start the furthest away from the master as possible. But in the case of ABS you want to start off as far away as the ABS unit as possible.

Start at the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder and work toward it so order is drivers rear -> passenger rear -> passenger front -> drivers front. Normally the passenger rear would be furthest (in most cars) but b/c the brake lines run down the passenger side, the drivers side rear is the furthest.

Thanks guys. I'm glad I read this post before I started this job.

Oh and when I did mine, the Right Rear, has the "block" on the line to connect the hard line that crosses over the rear cross-member. When I did mine, the thing was siezed in there but good. Ended up, having to replace the hard line that runs across the cross-member.

Not overly challenging in the grand scheme of things. Just get a replacement piece of hardline (I think I got a 4 footer), then just bend it by hand to get it into approximately the same shape as the stocker, then you need to rent or buy a "double flare" tool, to put a "fresh end" on the hardline at the right length. I just rented it. Probably took all of a few hours total, including the re-bleeding....

I'm not sure if it's just because of the "arctic wasteland" use of salt in the winter here... but my car has never really been driven through a winter (just the occasional "clear" days)... so something to watch out for.

Dave,

Nice setup. There looks to be lots of room for the I/C pipe by the A/C and power steering. Did you have to bend or reroute anything? Nice job.

The NACA duct on the headlight lid...is that carbon fiber sticker material?

There would be tons of room if I used Corky's water-bypass, however there is enough to fit a 2" pipe in there. The only thing I had to move was the power steering lines, it was easy enough.

The NACA duct is real carbon fiber, the cooling panel over the radiator is the sticker ;)