Almost done gathering, need oppinions and advice (maybe NWS)
 

I've gathered all the parts I need to go turbo minus a few things:
-Oil lines/water lines for the turbo
-A solution to the flanges on an SR20 T25
-A solution to the waste gate actuator issue with the turbo clocked down
-Some random hardware to buckle everything up

So far I have:
-CXracing IC and Piping
-Bosch bypass valve
-SR20 T25, rebuilt
-Begi Mani/DP
-Stripes TB Pipe
-MS1 V3 (in and working)
-RX7 550s

I'm prolly forgetting some stuff.

So here is the issue, in order to collect the things I need I'm going to have to cut some corners somehow. I've run out of money for the build now since i'm in school, all savings go to taxes when that time comes.

For my questions:
-I'm not even sure what oil lines to use for my 1.6. Dont know length, dont know what size fitting to put in the block. I was going to go with BEGI stuff for oil feed/drain but there has got to be a cheaper way while still using a SS feed line at minimum. Dont wanna go super duper cheap here, just not wanting to get ripped off...tuner toys maybe?

-For the flanges on the SR20 T25, i've got another compressor housing off some other turbo, not sure what. It fits the CHRA but its a .48 A/R and the T25 wheel doesn't fit it. The wheel that came with it is junk. Should I trust some of the cheep wheels that are on ebay? There are some for under 30 dollars that seem like they might fit. Is this a bad idea overall? Should I just pay for the silly expensive flange adapters and the BEGI WGA/bracket? All told, that'll run me nearly 200 bucks...

Some pics of the compressor housing i'd like to use:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSC00801.jpg
Attachment 208716
Attachment 208717

I'm so close i can taste it. I'm almost considering selling off the DP and welding my own. My fab skills are nearly non-existent though I could prolly figure it out. I haven't had a chance to play with my new welder yet.

Long newbish post i know, sorry. Here is a random picture of a hot chick with a nice ass...
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/237/4...bca664e074.jpg

Thanks for the hot chick pic!

I forget the exact thread pitch for the fitting into the block, but i have an extra sitting in my garage you can have for free. Just pay for postage and its your. Its to a -4AN fitting.

Edit:
Didn't you buy my turbo? ATP sells a flange that should work:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=GTBB

What you could do is take it to a machine shop and have them weld something on it like this:
Attachment 208715

I bought these for my inlet/outlet, they work fine. eBay Motors: KA24DET SR20 BPT B6 4AGE T25/T28 TURBO INLET/OULET PIPE (item 120369591590 end time Feb-02-09 19:25:54 PST)

I bought your mani/DP, not your turbo though. I've seen the flange adpters at ATP but they're like 40 bucks each, seems silly to pay that much for them.

How much would it even cost to have a machine shop do that though? If it were reasonable, i'd do it...

Not sure exactly, i had both flanges for sale a while back that would match that turbo...

Keep that dp, i never wish i sold the SSSGDP :(

hehe, alright then I wont sell the DP. I'll take that fitting btw, you have a PM.

For oil feed, I got the TunerToys (TT) oil T thingy for like 22 bucks. Then got on egay and bought a 4' long -4AN stainless braided line for a feed.

Then Summit Racing brand for everything else. Fittings to plumb up feed line, -12AN stainless braided hose for my drain, and all the fancy AN fittings to hook it up for ~75 bucks. So I've got ~100 or so in all my oil lines, and it's the best. I will say stick with -10AN though, -12AN is a bit overkill. But I didn't want any drain problems.

I think these would be the right size for your turbo for the water cooling. Use rubber lines and insulate them. You can replace them later if it is a problem. Cheaper than ATP.

eBay Motors: Turbo Water Banjo Pipe 14mm Garrett Mitsubishi (item 120368234150 end time Feb-23-09 02:18:48 PST)

I actually have something similar to those already but with a bend in the fitting, not a straight pipe. I just need to get the rubber hose to plug them in when the turbo goes in.

I'm going to just repost this here to get more people in here...I know I keep viewing this thread over and over:D
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/237/4...bca664e074.jpg

Good, thanks haha.

Logically, would a smaller compressor housing/wheel hurt spool or help it but just sacrifice top end boost?

That is one sweet ass!
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+1, but it's missing something...




me

Smaller stuff spools faster. I'm pretty sure just about any variation of a T3/T4 turbo is too big really. IE-the compressors are rated to like 400-600 HP, but a miata will never do that. So it takes till 4500 to spool. Where on my T3 turbo I have a 52 trim T3 compressor that's rated to 440 hp, which is kinda high. Yet there are people running bigger compressors than me making less power... Why, I dunno.

smaller will help spool at the expense of topend. and vice versa

the atp adapter just made it worse for me. it might work for you. I have it if you wanna buy it. but look at what i used

Attachment 208714

these can be had off of ebay, but if you need the atp one, i have the one that doesnt have angle.

Holy shit, i never thought of it being oriented that way. Didn't even think it would fit with the stock alignment of the compressor housing. I can still use the stock WGA too! I think that is the route I may end up going then...Thanks Sam.

Anyone else have any input on oil lines? Is a braided drain line really necessary? I feel like I can save quite a few bucks if i can pick up something cheaper on the drain line, not cheaping out on the feed though.

Also on the feed line, do I really need a 4ft hose? Seems like a lot of overkill for such a short distance...

Im not using braided on my drain. you dont really need to. Definately use it on the feed though. that one sees alot more heat

+1 never saw the need to have braided drain. subaru's generate a shit ton more heat with their turbo4, and all run a rubber drain line. Never heard of anyone ever melting it

Silicone hoses do fine. They'll need to be changed every 2-3 years though. I got stainless ones because it was like 20 bucks more and I like to know my shit it right. But I overdo everything, so it's just another drop in the bucket for me.