anarchyx34's force fed miata project.
 

Ok so I've gone full bore on the DIY route. Here's what I've got so far:

Installed:
-MSPNP
-Innovate LC-1

Sitting on a shelf
-SR20 T25 .80/.64
-Starion intercooler
-RX-7 550cc injectors
-FC RX-7 Turbo II fuel pump
-Some random ebay BOV.

What I need:
-Inlet/outlet adapters for the T25.
-HKS Manifold.
-Oil/water lines
-Intercooler piping/couplers/clamps
-Custom downpipe
-Knocksense MS (optional)
-Boost & EGT gauges.

I think that's it so far. I cant wait until everything's together and working.

Looks like a good list... keep this thread up everytime you find something else to spend $100 on you didn't think you'd need.:)

where's the fe3? ;)

PM Kelly at ATP turbo for the inlet and outlet adapters. They will run you about 80$ for both of them. I am running the same turbo as your and I could not find the adapters anywere else for cheaper then that.

I have a 3 bolt outlet flange and the 3" tappered inlet flange from ATP if you are interested.

Long gone. :) I got tired of trying to make a rusty 3200lb FWD sedan into something it was never going to be.

I was going to pick up this, but I missed it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=002

I have these for I can sell you:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FLA

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FLA

You can get them for $75 shipped if you want them.

Sounds like a deal. PM me.

Definitely do the KnocksenseMS. It will help you get much closer on timing, and then you can spend a little less time on the dyno.

I would just get a bench grinder and take the outlet flange off, its what I did, the adapter for the outlet is a waste of money.

Im in the same boat as you are, i have all the major stuff and now im collecting the small shit like fittings and adapters. Im currently looking at the SR20 stock adapters for the inlet and outlet of the turbo. I noticed that they run about ~$30-60 for a set if you do a bit of searching.

Yeah I had it on my 626. The only problem I had was it falsing past 6000 rpms. The FE3 was a somewhat noisy engine, moreso than the BP, so I'm hoping not to have the same problem.

I've been a bit lazy, but things are finally starting to happen.

The state of things right now. I'm depressed just looking at it.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0d8a94b17c.jpg

Picked up an HKS manifold. Finally got everything bolted on for a test-fit.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...f0c9947d3f.jpg

Damn that thing sits high. Only real issues i can see are re-routing the accel and cruise cables and some proper heat shielding needs to be put in place to protect the heater hoses, master cyl and the paint on my hood :) Still need to clock everything.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...fe1a90378b.jpg

Downpipe is going to be a tight 90 degree. Might only do 2.25" too but that should be enough for me. I'm also going to cut that EGR tube off or just leave it there. It's not bothering anyone.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...012bec4847.jpg
CX racing intercooler 28x5.5x2.5. Fits like a glove. A/C components and p/s cooler are not in the way. Side ports so belly pan will stay intact. Everything I wanted.

looking good

It looks like you've got the oil drain pointing straight up. On my SR20 T25, the oil inlet is a small threaded fitting, and the oil outlet is the large opening with 2-bolts flanking it for the adapter. You might want to check that you don't have the CHRA upside down.

just swag it up to 2.5 or 3" diameter after 12" or so.

Yeah I noticed that :). I already clocked it properly.


Right now I'm trying to figure out the intercooler pipe routing. The piping on the drivers side is going to be a bitch. There's no freaking room. I might have to modify the lower radiator hose to make room.

looks good man. Yeah the cold pipe is a bit of a PITA but its not too bad.

here's your hotside IC pipe routing solution (courtesy turbotim):
http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...er5/Ypipe1.JPG