anarchyx34's force fed miata project.
 

Ok so I've gone full bore on the DIY route. Here's what I've got so far:

Installed:
-MSPNP
-Innovate LC-1

Sitting on a shelf
-SR20 T25 .80/.64
-Starion intercooler
-RX-7 550cc injectors
-FC RX-7 Turbo II fuel pump
-Some random ebay BOV.

What I need:
-Inlet/outlet adapters for the T25.
-HKS Manifold.
-Oil/water lines
-Intercooler piping/couplers/clamps
-Custom downpipe
-Knocksense MS (optional)
-Boost & EGT gauges.

I think that's it so far. I cant wait until everything's together and working.

Looks like a good list... keep this thread up everytime you find something else to spend $100 on you didn't think you'd need.:)

where's the fe3? ;)

PM Kelly at ATP turbo for the inlet and outlet adapters. They will run you about 80$ for both of them. I am running the same turbo as your and I could not find the adapters anywere else for cheaper then that.

I have a 3 bolt outlet flange and the 3" tappered inlet flange from ATP if you are interested.

Long gone. :) I got tired of trying to make a rusty 3200lb FWD sedan into something it was never going to be.

I was going to pick up this, but I missed it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=002

I have these for I can sell you:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FLA

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FLA

You can get them for $75 shipped if you want them.

Sounds like a deal. PM me.

Definitely do the KnocksenseMS. It will help you get much closer on timing, and then you can spend a little less time on the dyno.

I would just get a bench grinder and take the outlet flange off, its what I did, the adapter for the outlet is a waste of money.

Im in the same boat as you are, i have all the major stuff and now im collecting the small shit like fittings and adapters. Im currently looking at the SR20 stock adapters for the inlet and outlet of the turbo. I noticed that they run about ~$30-60 for a set if you do a bit of searching.

Yeah I had it on my 626. The only problem I had was it falsing past 6000 rpms. The FE3 was a somewhat noisy engine, moreso than the BP, so I'm hoping not to have the same problem.

I've been a bit lazy, but things are finally starting to happen.

The state of things right now. I'm depressed just looking at it.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0d8a94b17c.jpg

Picked up an HKS manifold. Finally got everything bolted on for a test-fit.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...f0c9947d3f.jpg

Damn that thing sits high. Only real issues i can see are re-routing the accel and cruise cables and some proper heat shielding needs to be put in place to protect the heater hoses, master cyl and the paint on my hood :) Still need to clock everything.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...fe1a90378b.jpg

Downpipe is going to be a tight 90 degree. Might only do 2.25" too but that should be enough for me. I'm also going to cut that EGR tube off or just leave it there. It's not bothering anyone.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...012bec4847.jpg
CX racing intercooler 28x5.5x2.5. Fits like a glove. A/C components and p/s cooler are not in the way. Side ports so belly pan will stay intact. Everything I wanted.

looking good

It looks like you've got the oil drain pointing straight up. On my SR20 T25, the oil inlet is a small threaded fitting, and the oil outlet is the large opening with 2-bolts flanking it for the adapter. You might want to check that you don't have the CHRA upside down.

just swag it up to 2.5 or 3" diameter after 12" or so.

Yeah I noticed that :). I already clocked it properly.


Right now I'm trying to figure out the intercooler pipe routing. The piping on the drivers side is going to be a bitch. There's no freaking room. I might have to modify the lower radiator hose to make room.

looks good man. Yeah the cold pipe is a bit of a PITA but its not too bad.

here's your hotside IC pipe routing solution (courtesy turbotim):
http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...er5/Ypipe1.JPG

For my SR20 T25 I was able to find a used broken t25 on ebay for 50 bucks that has normal inlet and outlets. Going to swap the compressor housing over. Are you going to clock your turbo differently?

I've got just about all the same parts you do cept my mani and dp are begi. Good lookin build!

O.O

Twin turbos?!11

I actually considered going through the fenderwell, my concern is tire/wheel clearance. Looks like it might be tight.

OMG confusing. I just spent a LOT of time on anplumbing.com building a parts list for my water/oil setup. Here's what I got so far.

9919BFH Metric thread male to AN adapter male. X1
-adapter for oil feed port on block M14x1.5 to -4an

591942 I.F. Steel Brake Adapter 2 per pkg. x1
-7/16-24 to -4an adapter for turbo oil inlet

309104 90Deg. Auto-Fit Hose End. Use Perform-O-Flex, Auto-Flex hose.
-Hose ends for oil feed line -4AN

300004 Tight Budget? Use Auto-Flex Hose For use with Auto Fit Hose
-oil feed hose -4an 3ft

981611 Straight, Pipe Thread To A.N. Adapter
-Oil drain fitting for turbo -10AN

982311 45 Deg. Elbow, Pipe Thread To A.N. Adapter
-this gets screwed into oil pan -10AN

300110 Straight Auto-Fit Hose End. Use Perform-O-Flex, Auto-Flex hose.
-Hose ends for oil drain -10

300010 Tight Budget ? USE Auto-Flex Hose with Swivel Seal & Auto-Fit
-Hose for oil drain -10 2ft.

9919DFH Metric thread male to AN adapter male.
-adapters for water fitting on turbo -6an to M14x1.5 X2

300106 Straight Auto-Fit Hose End.
-hose end for one water line -6an

309106 90Deg. Auto-Fit Hose End.
-hose end for the other water line facing cyl head -6an

300006 Tight Budget ? USE Auto-Flex Hose with Swivel Seal & Auto-Fit
-hose for water lines -6AN 4ft

900106 -6 Econ-O-Fit, 5/8" ID.
-hose clamps for -6an water hose onto thermostat housing nipple and wherever the hell the other one goes.

Total for all of this is $184.

Seem like I've got everything?

Get yourself a flexible lower rad hose from discount, makes life easier (props to brain) and I clocked the compressor down, then used a silicone 90 pointing towards the front, and slightly towards the fender. Tight, but fits (w/ ps/ac)

quote from the DIY thread.
the correct size fitting to match up to it is a M10 x 1.5. Based on previous issues locating a correct fitting, you'll want to source a M10 x 1.5 to -4AN fitting.

You ordered "9919BFH Metric thread male to AN adapter male. X1
-adapter for oil feed port on block M14x1.5 to -4an"

Whooops!! Thanks for catching that! I didn't actually order anything yet. Good thing too :)

That twin turbo IC pipe routing is totally clear of the tire. Mine is very close (I'd chose the prior if I had to do it over again). But both are a viable option if another option is needed besides the traditional down and out.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/CRW_9439.jpg

I was wondering if you can do that...looks very good^^^^^^^^^^^^

OK, ordered the water/oil lines as well as a turbo drain flange for the turbo on e-bay. Everything came out to $240, but the underhood eye candy will be worth it. :)

Meh oil and water lines are done.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7867/dsc01396zu8.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9387/dsc01397mh8.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/435/dsc01400fa8.jpg

I hate working with A/N hose. It's a fucking pain in the ass to assemble, especially the smaller sizes. It took me 2 hours just to make the oil feed line. Maybe I'm just retarded. But at least it looks pretty.

^^ I'm with you on this one,the SS AN hose are a fucking bitch to assemble,I'm switching to the socketless hose for now on.

You should wrap some heat shrink around the SS oil feed line,just incase it makes any contact with the brake cylinder or heater hose,it won't rub through.

Finally got around to doing the charge pipes. I ordered one of those CX-racing e-bay kits, figuring it should have most of what I need, and a few extra pieces including a blow off valve from siliconeintakes. I tackled the nightmare driver's side first. It wasn't as hard as I thought. I managed to make this in about an hour.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...938f119673.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...e5de1e1a82.jpg

Yay for wheel clearance. This is at full lock
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...a729d2c5e8.jpg

And then I removed the secondary radiator fan and started assembling the
post-intercooler pipes, starting with the BOV pipe. I need to find a slim fan now.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...4eecf1f99e.jpg

I'm glad I went with 2" pipe instead of 2.5" because this is a piece of cake so far. Now all I need to do is cobble together a lower radiator hose of some sort, do some minor trimming/adjusting, and that side's done. W00t!!

Havent posted in a while, but I've gotten a lot done.

IT'S DONE and it RUNS.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...aaaf4a4b21.jpg

Blow off valve.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6b7d4833d2.jpg

New loud Mitsuba horns and a really compact SPAL condensor fan.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...2ff517ddea.jpg

Passengers side IC piping
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0df29571e6.jpg

Everything barely fits
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...2214802356.jpg

I made a boost leak detector. It was a good idea because I had several boost leaks to fix. Probably would've gone crazy trying to find them after the fact.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...2eb58ad7e5.jpg

Now all I need to do is tow the car to get the downpipe done and I can finally hit the road. I'm so excited.

Congrats on the build man! I'm looking into going the boost route pretty soon and might be using this thread as a bit of a guide. BTW my miata is white too!

You were on mx6.com before right? Your screen name looks very familiar. Mine is Pat88gt over there.

What is the easiest way to make one of those fancy shmancy boost leak testers?

Yeah I had a '90 626 GT for the longest time. Ended up with a FE3 swap and everything before I got bored with it.

Go the the PVC pipe aisle in home depot. Grab a PVC cap and a plastic to cast-iron pipe coupler. Drill hole in cap, screw in air fitting, put cap inside coupler and tighten clamp. That's it.

That's the best explanation I've heard of making the boost leak detector. Over on SRTforums they make this huge deal over it like it's some sort of lost black art.

Build looks great! What made you change your mind about going through the fender?

Ehh... too lazy. And I was worried about possible wheel/clearance issues and interference with the power steering stuffs. It fits rather nicely where it is actually, although if I went with 2.5" it wouldn't have been possible.

Car is at the shop right now getting teh downpipe done. Hopefully will be done before the weekend. I cant contain my excitement. I'm about to burst!

Just picked the car up from the shop. Downpipe is done. I got to drive it home too. So far everything's holding together nicely. Nothing's gone wrong yet. Once I got home I took it around the neighborhood and got on it a little bit. I'm only running 6-7 psi and I have to say holy shitballs it's pretty quick. Top end is very strong. The bitch wants to pull right past redline. I'm also running off the MSPNP basemap, which is tuned really really safe for boost. I'm hitting 10:1 AFR, so it should only get better as I lean it out a little.

Downpipe came out nicely.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...cf6848b3a3.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...3878fe8d04.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0ce54ac13b.jpg

I had it done at Maximum PSI in Linden, NJ. Great work as always.

Oh and another thing. This car is so quiet! I'm running a cobalt catback, and the stock cat. The thing is actually quieter than stock. Really surprised by that. The only thing you hear is turbo noises, which sound pretty awesome. :)

Well I'm stoked. And of course it's supposed to rain the whole damn weekend. Oh and my registration sticker is expired and I haven't gotten the new one in the mail yet. Good timing.

Great looking build!


I think this is the fastest N/A to boosted car I've seen since joining this forum, besides Cody's MSM conversion.

Well done, and I like the IC piping job.

wow very clean build, looks nice!

Wow, nice build and it gives me an impresion how to make the piping on the hot side of the intercooler.

Great job! How much did the downpipe set you back?