Apariah's Turbo Thread
 

I picked up my manifold, downpipe induction piping, and intercooler mount. As well as a slim fan. I'm still waiting on a coupler, banjo fittings for the water supply, and oil drain and return fittings to come in, but things hopefully will go pretty smooth. The goal is to see boost by 200 post, hopefully this will happen sooner rather than later.

I post more photos as I begin the install, but for now here are some of the post from Abe's car as he was building and test fitting the parts.

ooh nice setup. Looks like sprayeds handywork

great job! love the V-band!

good luck with the intake plumbing...

I'm about to use the same guy...hopefully he doesn't tell me to put a 90* aft turbo.

It is his work, and although it looks good in the photos I think its much better in person. Except for one of the reduction couplers the induction has been test fitted to a similar car so we should be fine.

Turbo clocking 101 anyone?

Any way you point it you'd need a 90° there.

Looks good to me, nice welding.

EDIT: except for the relocated powersteering reservior and the large gap between the I/C and the A/C condenser.

Our cars a slightly different for one Ive pulled my Power Steering, so it shouldn't be a problem. I'm not sure about the A/C condenser yet. I pulled power steering, and I have not found a non-PS tensioner so its not working at the moment, but I drove the car most of the summer without a/c, so its not mandatory.

This thread makes me want to switch to aluminum or stainless piping to cut weight.

If thats not a joke that I didn't get, what are you using now. I thought you were running a stainless manifold. I have no clue what your ic piping might be.

No AFM, filter in front of the shock tower. Looks like a tight fit but a 2.5" pipe fits under there.

pointed up it interferes with the wg actuator; down it hits the frame/water pipe.

Exactly, I don't know how you'd get around that. Many stock turbos use a cast 90, a silicone one wont make a difference

Thanks

As Apariah mentioned his car won't have ps, I just didn't want to remove it on mine so I zip tied it out of the way. As for the intercooler, that was as close as I could place with the bend provided. He'll be using an under tray and radiator plate so i don't think it'll be an issue.


Stainless won't be any lighter, just looks better, but we can do aluminum...I'll make you an al exhaust too ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...numexhaust.jpg

I ordered a few sets of cheap v-bands for the exhaust/cat...but I already have 3" there. I should probably keep the mild steel because I'm going to be poor when this is over.

Well I got aluminum, stainless, and mild BOV mounts just cause I knew you'd change your mind up until I ship it all to you. Let me know what it'll be.

I'm starting the install Saturday, hopefully in the morning, did a few preliminaries yesterday just to see how difficult it would be to access everything. I think everything should go well with the exception of two parts I'm still waiting for. If anyone knows were I might be able to find a oil drain for a t28, and or a banjo fitting set again for a t28 let me know.

On a side note, I also ran all of the lower grade fuel out the car and replaced it with 93, and I noticed something. Everyone once in a while I would notice a little white smoke coming out of the car. Since changing to 93, I haven't seen the smoke at all. Now this is a great thing, but I didn't think changing fuel could fix this sort of issue. Anyone have an idea what could cause this?

Would this item work as a check valve to go inbetween the intake and the stock PCV? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick...=p4506.c0.m245 I hope since its a GM product I might be able to find it at NAPA.

90deg coupler.

Test Fit Photos.
 

Well it looks like everythings going to go together pretty well. If the parts I ordered last week were here, I would have this done for labor day. But I'm missing the banjo fittings for my water lines, and the oil return.

I think we really need to change up the intake, and possibly move the filter to the top right and corner of the engine bay but for now I think this is going to be fine.

One of my eater hoses has a leak and needs to be replaced, I went to pick up another one today, and started looking at reflective tape, header wrap. Without a heat shield whats the best way to protect the new hose, master cylinder, and all of the other things susceptible to heat.

Boost is Good!
 

Well its finally done, I drove it for the first time this morning, and it was great.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ntxbmx/3913550761

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxDj_vdEhIM

For the DIYers out their wondering what it might have cost:

$450 manifold and dp
$225 intercooler mounting and piping
$30 (male M10x1.5 to male -4AN), turbo side fitting (inverted flare 7/16-24 to male -4AN), and 24" oil line
$443.00 CXRACING Turbo/IC piping kit Completed Details -
$30.00 Ebay 1.8 Injectors - USD
$99.00 TREperformance Inc. 255lph fuel pump - USD
$29.98 David Truong Ebay Boost Gauge -
$107.98 CXRACING Additional Piping - USD (We need a few pieces it was cheaper to by a complete kit than just waht I need. Abel and I split the cost he kept the extras)
$30 (male M10x1.5 to male -4AN), turbo side fitting (inverted flare 7/16-24 to male -4AN), and 24" oil line for $30.
$16.99 auto sourcing intl Co., limited This is the coupler I'm still missing.
$5.99 Alonelyfly Completed 2.5" tbolt clamp special size??
$5.74 antonio tropiano 2" tbolt clamp special size??
$15.72 DIYAutoTune.com New IAT Bung for intake piping.
$25 M14 Turbocharger Water Cooling Pipe Kit Garrett T25 T28 (Had to be modified)
$16.19 Turbo Oil Drain Pipe GARRETT T2 T25 T28 TB02 TB25 TB28 (It had to be modified)
$25 Silicone hose I can pick up from Stuart Hose and Pipe
14.00 4 studs and nuts to mount the turbo to the manifold.

Total 1555.59

Sounds nice and meatie, but man does the motor move.
Are your motor mounts ok?

Don't know yet, thats the first time I've ever seen the motor while it was starting.