Royal purple fully synthetic?
12-26-2006, 08:37 PM
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Royal purple fully synthetic?
Im going to be re-changing my oil shortly and Im looking towards royal purple's fully synthetic 10w-40 or possibly the 20w-50....I believe the oil im using is crappy(loud ticking starts..never happend before I tried using castrol crapola syn power )
I've heard alot of good things about the brand? and suggestions or expiereneces?
I've heard alot of good things about the brand? and suggestions or expiereneces?
Last edited by RicanmiataRacer; 12-26-2006 at 09:20 PM.
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12-26-2006, 08:55 PM
#2
I've heard many good things, never ran it myself but i know people that do run it in their 240sx's and another friend in his MX-5. Alot of people use Redline synthetic as well, i've heard many times that it cures alot of lifter tick as well. Redline is also offered in 20w-50 if you're set on that weight oil. Amsoil is also a premium synthetic oil and I saw a study saying it outperformed redline in a four-ball test.
I would either go Royal Purple, AMS, or Redline. Purple is available at any Napa and I think Autozone carries it now as well, but i might be wrong.
I would either go Royal Purple, AMS, or Redline. Purple is available at any Napa and I think Autozone carries it now as well, but i might be wrong.
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12-26-2006, 09:09 PM
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from POP:
Pour in about 1 pint of kerosene just prior to an oil and filter change. Bring engine to operating temperature with an easy 5-10 minute drive. Change the oil and filter while still warm. In many of those engine flushes as well as those combustion chamber decarbonization chambers are kerosene based. Different process and objective for both, but the product is the same.
from Ajmiata:
ATF is another type of oil specifically formulated with a large amount of "dispersants" that are intended to keep crud in the oil rather than let it deposit as sludge. This is because transmission fluid is rarely changed and the filtering is minimal (basically just a screen to keep out big chunks). It is also a little thinner than engine oil and does not have nearly the lubricity over all temperature ranges of regular engine oil. So it will thin your oil and the dispersants will hold anything eaten out of your lifters, but, unlike MMO, it will stay in your engine for as long as you go between oil changes. As such, if you go the ATF route, I would recommend changing your oil pretty quickly after you've cured your valve ticking, because this stuff just wasn't meant to operate in the harsher environment of your engine.
Basically ATF is kerosene based so both do the same.
Pour in about 1 pint of kerosene just prior to an oil and filter change. Bring engine to operating temperature with an easy 5-10 minute drive. Change the oil and filter while still warm. In many of those engine flushes as well as those combustion chamber decarbonization chambers are kerosene based. Different process and objective for both, but the product is the same.
from Ajmiata:
ATF is another type of oil specifically formulated with a large amount of "dispersants" that are intended to keep crud in the oil rather than let it deposit as sludge. This is because transmission fluid is rarely changed and the filtering is minimal (basically just a screen to keep out big chunks). It is also a little thinner than engine oil and does not have nearly the lubricity over all temperature ranges of regular engine oil. So it will thin your oil and the dispersants will hold anything eaten out of your lifters, but, unlike MMO, it will stay in your engine for as long as you go between oil changes. As such, if you go the ATF route, I would recommend changing your oil pretty quickly after you've cured your valve ticking, because this stuff just wasn't meant to operate in the harsher environment of your engine.
Basically ATF is kerosene based so both do the same.
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12-26-2006, 09:18 PM
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Ummm **** ....That sounds like somthing Im not ready to try...Its new and sounds risky because i never done it before....Is there a walk-through of some sort that I can follow ...or somthing...
from POP:
Pour in about 1 pint of kerosene just prior to an oil and filter change. Bring engine to operating temperature with an easy 5-10 minute drive. Change the oil and filter while still warm. In many of those engine flushes as well as those combustion chamber decarbonization chambers are kerosene based. Different process and objective for both, but the product is the same.
from Ajmiata:
ATF is another type of oil specifically formulated with a large amount of "dispersants" that are intended to keep crud in the oil rather than let it deposit as sludge. This is because transmission fluid is rarely changed and the filtering is minimal (basically just a screen to keep out big chunks). It is also a little thinner than engine oil and does not have nearly the lubricity over all temperature ranges of regular engine oil. So it will thin your oil and the dispersants will hold anything eaten out of your lifters, but, unlike MMO, it will stay in your engine for as long as you go between oil changes. As such, if you go the ATF route, I would recommend changing your oil pretty quickly after you've cured your valve ticking, because this stuff just wasn't meant to operate in the harsher environment of your engine.
Basically ATF is kerosene based so both do the same.
Pour in about 1 pint of kerosene just prior to an oil and filter change. Bring engine to operating temperature with an easy 5-10 minute drive. Change the oil and filter while still warm. In many of those engine flushes as well as those combustion chamber decarbonization chambers are kerosene based. Different process and objective for both, but the product is the same.
from Ajmiata:
ATF is another type of oil specifically formulated with a large amount of "dispersants" that are intended to keep crud in the oil rather than let it deposit as sludge. This is because transmission fluid is rarely changed and the filtering is minimal (basically just a screen to keep out big chunks). It is also a little thinner than engine oil and does not have nearly the lubricity over all temperature ranges of regular engine oil. So it will thin your oil and the dispersants will hold anything eaten out of your lifters, but, unlike MMO, it will stay in your engine for as long as you go between oil changes. As such, if you go the ATF route, I would recommend changing your oil pretty quickly after you've cured your valve ticking, because this stuff just wasn't meant to operate in the harsher environment of your engine.
Basically ATF is kerosene based so both do the same.
Ummm **** ....That sounds like somthing Im not ready to try...Its new and sounds risky because i never done it before....Is there a walk-through of some sort that I can follow ...or somthing...
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12-26-2006, 09:30 PM
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No, the author of that quote was comparing MMO to straight kerosene. MMO contains kerosene. ATF is not kerosene based.
ATF contains detergents that will "decrudify" oil passages and get oil circulating in the lifters better.
ATF contains detergents that will "decrudify" oil passages and get oil circulating in the lifters better.
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12-26-2006, 09:33 PM
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Rican, there is no downside & no damage potential. Do the following:
- Drain about a quart of oil.
- Add atf until level is full again
- Go for a 10 minute drive
- Immediately drain oil while warm
- Change filter
- Fill engine with new oil
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12-26-2006, 09:41 PM
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I wasn't nit picking. Kerosene and ATF are not the same thing. I wouldn't want kerosene running through my engine. I wouldn't be afraid to have atf in there for a while.
I added in factual information, pertinent to the original topic. Why do you bust my *****?
I added in factual information, pertinent to the original topic. Why do you bust my *****?
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12-28-2006, 12:10 PM
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www.bobistheoilguy.com if you want to chat with some guys who really know their **** about oil.
Anyone ever sent their oil out for analysis?
Anyone ever sent their oil out for analysis?
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12-28-2006, 12:24 PM
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When your car only needs 4qts of oil, just change it.
I sent in a sample once for my e-class because it holds 9 qts of oil. It really wasn't worth it then either as the change only costs about $60 if I do it myself.
I sent in a sample once for my e-class because it holds 9 qts of oil. It really wasn't worth it then either as the change only costs about $60 if I do it myself.
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