|
Beginnings of my new build...
Been selling off lots of my old setup as I have a new one on the way. I bought Brian's (neogenesis2004) old car, basically for the built engine which will be swapped into the brg, and I am having a custom turbo kit based around a GT2871R built. Here are some teaser pics of the manifold by Rob at Flipside Customs. Granted, it's pretty much a copy of Kelly's old ramhorn, but it's been awhile since we've seen that. ;)
http://i30.tinypic.com/epeqsg.jpg http://i29.tinypic.com/1zqcyuh.jpg http://i31.tinypic.com/28sl9vp.jpg http://i32.tinypic.com/25twccz.jpg http://i26.tinypic.com/hvc7co.jpg |
First post, Tom likes men who can fab stuff like that. (edited)
|
nice!
whats the rest of the setup going to be? |
a motor that pwns j00 + a turbo/manifold/exhaust that pwn j00
|
sick sick sick tom. not gonna be ready for apr 5 huh?
|
Yeah no turbo for dyno day, but I am going to baseline dyno NA as it's not a typical NA engine. ;)
As for the rest of the build, the plans are for a 38mm Tial EWG, 3" SS downpipe with EWG joining in later, and a 3" SS exhaust. I already have an IC setup based on a 18x9x3 core IC and will likely add progressive WI on top as redline will be somewhere in the 8500rpm area and boost will probably be north of 18psi. We'll see. This is going to take a bit, but it's gonna be fun. :) |
Damn, very slick. I haven't seen those turbo collectors made from schedule 40 yet, I guess Rob makes them himself. Turbo is moved forward from center which should help with the DP.
|
I can't take any credit for the built engine (all props to Brian) but here are the specs for those that are interested. Based on a 1.6L:
HEAD
SHORTBLOCK
|
that's just... DAAYUMMM
|
I agree with Ben... DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYUMMMMMMMMMMMMMNNNN!!!
I want to do similar thing to my head minus the solid lifters(any advantage to having solid? I also want to bore and change the pistons with H-rods from FM.. I just built a motor with ceramic coated piston tops, its in a car right now running and he LOVES it! |
i think solid lifters get rid of valve float letting it rev higher
|
ahah. makes sense... what about the valve spring on FM says it eliminates valve float to 9k rpm?
|
Originally Posted by mazda/nissan
(Post 234363)
i think solid lifters get rid of valve float letting it rev higher
what happens when you go WOT...your oil pressure increases.... what happens if you you build a motor to rev to 9k, your oil pressure will exceed 90psi. what's the cure? |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 234372)
what happens when you go WOT...your oil pressure increases....
what happens if you you build a motor to rev to 9k, your oil pressure will exceed 90psi. what's the cure? |
fiddle with the oil pump spring?
|
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 234372)
what happens when you go WOT...your oil pressure increases....
what happens if you you build a motor to rev to 9k, your oil pressure will exceed 90psi. what's the cure? nah, i suppose you could get a relief valve set to a max psi. |
if oil pressure keep building, then hydraulic lifters keep valves open. so yes I guess valve float is a reason why. if you wanna increase your revs, you need solid lifters....Tom's motor can easily rev out to 10k without worries.
Not to mention with a solid lifter, the cam profile can be more aggressive (ramp rates and opening times), solids will make more power. |
God damn. thats all I gotta say.
|
...i dont know if this is normal or not after brains post... what is everyones oil pressure? my is 90psi when the turbo is in use, 60 @idle
|
60 at idle? did you put SAE60 in there??
|
synthetic mobile 1 5w30
without the turbo it idles at 30psi and wot at 60psi |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 234390)
if oil pressure keep building, then hydraulic lifters keep valves open. so yes I guess valve float is a reason why. if you wanna increase your revs, you need solid lifters....Tom's motor can easily rev out to 10k without worries.
Not to mention with a solid lifter, the cam profile can be more aggressive (ramp rates and opening times), solids will make more power. |
something's whacked if your throttle is changing oil pressure independent of rpm
I'd go so far as to add "shim-under-bucket" solid lifters for revving to 10k. I'd be nervous revving the heavy over bucket shims to high revs for extended periods (higher gears) Nice build Tom. :bigtu: |
I wondered when you were going to post this up...
PM me if you are going to part with all the old stuff ;D (At least the mani/downpipe)... |
to the op, im loving the manifold you are making
i have a quick question, what the difference between a 3 angle valve job, and a 5? i just noticed u had a 5 done, and ive never heard of that |
Better flow past the valves and better seal do to more contact points.
|
Originally Posted by urgaynknowit
(Post 234726)
to the op, im loving the manifold you are making
i have a quick question, what the difference between a 3 angle valve job, and a 5? i just noticed u had a 5 done, and ive never heard of that |
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 234706)
I'd go so far as to add "shim-under-bucket" solid lifters for revving to 10k. I'd be nervous revving the heavy over bucket shims to high revs for extended periods (higher gears)
|
Electric water pump! You could even set it to run a min after shutoff to keep the turbo cool, like the new TT BMW's.
|
Originally Posted by brgracer
(Post 234846)
especially when the torque starts dropping off after 5-6k based on dyno charts.
well let's see if Brian did a good job choosing cams before you say that :noob: |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 234830)
an ideal valve seat cut would be a smooth radius for flow but since that's virtually impossible to produce for cheap, shops will cut a series of angles to simulate the round edge. the more cuts, the closer the approximation is to a smooth curve.
|
|
very nice mani. i like it very much
|
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:52 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands