tilt

iTrader: (1)

Here's my 1995 1.8L turbo install. I've installed 3 other DIY turbos before this one, but this was my first Miata install. This was much more time consuming!

My goal is to build a semi-reliable car that sees track time (HPDE and AutoX) and be as fast as an S2000 in a straight line. I'm targetting around 180-190whp, at least to start with. I can always add more power if I change my mind.

Thank you to all contributors on the forum. You have been very helpful.




Upgraded ACT XTSS clutch for the extra power.


Upgraded radiator for better cooling. (I would have gone with Godspeed had I known about it at the time.)


MSPNP for engine management.


Autometer Gauges.


PLX wideband.


RX7 550cc injectors cleaned and flow tested. Thanks injector-rehab.com !


Header removed. EGR was also removed and blocked off.


oil feed fitting - The fitting is M10x1.5 to -4AN male.


oil feed - Connected to the oil port is: -4AN to -4AN 90 degree fitting -4AN x -4AN x 1/8NPT T-fitting the 1/8NPT connects to a 1/8NPT female to 1/2NPT male fitting the -4AN connect to a -4AN female to -3AN male converter. Connected to the brass fitting is a 1/2NPT male to 1/8NPT female converter. The oil temp sensor is 1/8NPT and screws into the top of that fitting.The -3AN fitting is connected to a 28" -3AN steel braided oil line hose. Oil line runs up along the dip stick and curves along the brake booster and to the strut tower then curves to the turbo oil feed.


Here's my super awesome BEGI bellengineering.com T25 manifold with M10 studs. I believe it is to help prevent the studs from vibrating loose. I decided to go without EGR. You can also see how the oil line runs. It's covered in plastic sheathing since metal hoses will eat into other metals over time.


turbo - mocked up for test fitting. The studs are so big that the exhaust housing on the turbo would not fit. I had to drill out the holes. The turbo I'm using is a Garrett T25 off a Nissan S13 SR20DET. You can see I installed a flexible radiator hose down low. It is a Dayco 1 1/4" x 23" long hose. The larger flexible radiator hose you see sticking up is part of the intercooler piping!


oil drain - Having completed this I would recommend drilling a few mm to the left. The oil drain pickup tube is behind the hole towards the right. I cleared it without problems, but just letting you know as a word of caution.


oil pan - Here is my drill bit contraption I came up with. You need to find a way to extend the length of the drill if you have power steering and AC. I used a punch tool to help keep the drill bit centered and used smaller drill bits to start the hole. Be sure to tape off the tip of the final drill bit so you do not drill too deep.


oil pan - Here's how I tapped the pan. Use plenty of grease.


oil drain installed

tilt

iTrader: (1)

downpipe - Please excuse the mess. Here is my ghetto fabulous downpipe tack welded for test fit. I used exhaust parts laying around in the garage.


downpipe completed - I painted it with high temp spray paint to help against rust. It is actually a two-piece design that are joined using a slip joint.


downpipe installed - I will probably go back and heat wrap the downpipe.


and here it is under the car - It bolts to the stock cat.


O2 sensor - I ran the wideband through the shifter hole and plugs into the downpipe.


Intercooler - I went with 2.5" cold side. The coupler on the throttle body is a 45 degree bend connected to a 90 degree aluminized steel pipe. You can see I drilled a hole for the IAT (intake air temp) sensor. You want the sensor to be close to the intake manifold. Basically it should read temps that the engine is being fed. I also plumbed the ISC valve into the charge piping here.

At the bottom of the pipe a 45 degree coupler is connected that points down. I used a straight piece of pipe and immediately connected a 90 degree coupler.


Cold Side - Under the car now, I used a 90 degree coupler and a 90 degree pipe. I used a 90 degree reducing coupler to fit the 2" inlet on my intercooler. As you can see I cut a hole in the plastic shroud. This completes the cold side.


I replaced the pipe above with a BOV.


Intercooler - Here's how I mounted my 28 x 5.5 x 2.5" ebay intercooler. I used 1" aluminum strips, bent it into shape I wanted and cut it to size. Since I have AC and power steering it was a huge pain to get it installed.


Drier - You have to bend the drier as far to the left as you can. To accomplish this you have to remove the metal drier holder that's connected to the condenser.


Intercooler - Here's how I mounted the intercooler on the bottom side. I used 1" wide aluminum strips and bent it into the shapes I liked and bolted them down as shown. The intercooler just barely fits the stock plastic shroud.


Hot side - I decided to go with 2 inch hot side due to the space limitations. There is literally nowhere to route with PS and AC in the way. I used a 90 degree coupler from the intercooler.


hot side - I used a flexible radiator hose for the charge piping! It is 53224 Goodyear 2"x24" hose. I also had to replace the stock lower radiator hose with a Dayco 1 1/4" x 23" radiator hose for extra space.


hot side - Here is where the flex pipe enters the engine bay.


From the radiator hose charge pipeing connected is a 90 degree coupler, then a straight pipe, then another 90 to the turbo outlet.


Air intake - I used the turbo stock intake arm and used a 45 degree coupler to a short piece of piping. It's a K&N filter RU-4950. It is 2.5" inlet 6" base, 5" diameter top, and 5.5" tall. It fits but just barely. If you are wondering, the filter mesh is bent because I still had it wrapped in plastic (silly me) and started the engine and the whole filter collapsed!

reddroptop

iTrader: (4)

Looks good!

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I give you a ghetto-factor score of 10. Nice install (and post).

I'm going to give that split loom on the oil feed line about 30 minutes. I had some at the very top edge of the fire wall and it lasted about that long - with a heat shield on the turbo. It was like super stiff heat shrink tubing after.

SloS13

iTrader: (1)

100% awesomeness

18psi

iTrader: (76)

looks good...not really crazy about all the piping going everywhere, id try to clean it up/make it a bit shorter...just my .02....but overall, nice

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Nobody says it has to be pretty. Good work man. Im curious how well air will flow thru that ridged hose though.
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jobambo

Pics of the intercooler from the front plz.

Froogle

looking good mate

tilt

iTrader: (1)

It did cross my mind that heat might be an issue . I guess you confirmed it for me... it'll be on my list of things to revise!

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

Nice build!

Everything is lookin good!

Vash-

tilt

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. What I had planned and what I ended up with were a bit different.
I've had my share of blown charge pipes between track sessions and it's no fun. I'll give this a shot and if it's a problem, I'll revisit it with fewer points of failure in mind.

tilt

iTrader: (1)

Not a very clear shot but you get the idea.

jbresee

your bit extension for tapping the pan would have helped me a lot!

Nice work.

jbresee

your bit extension for tapping the pan would have helped me a lot!

Nice work.

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

Quick Question, where did you get the cold side OUT adapter with the three holes?

Also did you clock the center of the turbo so that the oil out points down?

tilt

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the compliments, guys. I've always been a function over form kind of car enthusiast.

tilt

iTrader: (1)

I bought mine here:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=GTBB

teknikscian

iTrader: (3)

looks great man! as long as it works I dont care what it looks like!

hustler

iTrader: (6)