Better place to weld oil pan fitting.
 

I have my oil pan off so I can replace seals and crap so I figured why not weld on a AN bung for future turbo oil drain into the pan. I know most people drill and tap the pan but JB weld is jank and why not weld it since I can TIG aluminum and have my own TIG?

My question is there a better place to locate the drain instead of the usual place it's drilled and tapped beneath the AC compressor bracket? I wonder if most drill and tap there because of accessibility with a drill.

Savington's thread shows a good spot that can be done in-car. If it ain't broke, why fix? Bonus points for not obstructing an oil pan bolt.

Also, his pictures show how that spot has the added bonus of more space from pan to pickup tube to eliminate code brown moments.

My oil pan is off the car. My engine is sitting on a stand. So if you were in my situation you would still thread and JB weld?

I think he is saying weld the bung in the standard location. You can do it more in the middle of the pan but you have to figure out where you are not hitting subframe or mounts.

This

If you have AC. Make sure the bung clears the AC bracket and such before you drill and weld.

Thanks I will do this. I also need to make sure the hose isnt rubbing on the bracket. Can the AC bracket be clearanced?

You are overthinking a problem that does not exist. This is mine, should clear everything. I used an NB with all the amenities to decide where to put it. Only thing I would do differently, is to raise the hole location about .5 in.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8faf1f8ac1.png

Extra clearance over the steering rack and slightly better drainage were my reasons to Raise it a bit. Although neither have been a problem. It was just pretty close to the rack.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e2d1fc4194.jpg

So i am overthinking but you post photos showing exactly the same overthinking as me? LOL I just want to make sure its in a good place like you. Nice work! But it looks like you don't have AC? Also any tips for welding the fitting on? I have experience welding aluminum but not a fitting don't want to mess it up.

So I found a nice big crack in my oil pan and spent some time welding that up! It looks like the pan was hit with a sledge hammer the side was dented in above the oil drain and had cracked on the outside and inside. If this wasn't leaking I would be surprised. This might actually be the source of my oil leak which i attributed to oil pan or rear main seal. either way driving around with a cracked oil pan is no good.

I don't have ac, but like I said, I chose the spot based off an NB that did have ac.

Sand down to fresh aluminum where you are going to weld. I also made a half ass attempt to sweat out any oil. I did this with a propane torch and a close eye.
Depending on where you source the bung, welding varies. I has US mad ones, they welded nice. I has some flea Bay ones, they welded like doo-doo. Some unknown alloy I'm sure.
Correct filler rod is important, this thing will live at temps above 200.

Cool thanks for the info. This is the same I did when welding up cracked oil pan. Sanding scrubbing degreasing acid wash acetone brush w/ stainless brush heating with a propane torch all before welding. It worked ok of course welding cast oil pans I think will always introduce dirt and grime into a weld. I think from old oil seeping out.

Hopefully my fittings are decent and not some kind of crappy welding alloy.

Made this mistake, yanked the AC bracket off and cut a slot out of it. Worked really well.

The shot in the photo is a bit further forward than is ideal. If you put it between the two triangular ribs on the oil pan then it tucks in nicely against the motor mount.

http://www.codrus.com/miata/fm2r/dra...-installed.jpg

I wouldn't take the pan off just to put it there, but if you've got it off anyway then it makes for a much better drain geometry than the standard location in front.

--Ian