Savington

iTrader: (31)

OK. Got the oil and water lines figured out, so the next step is to figure out where the hell to run the IC pipes. I've got a couple of issues: one is my RB tubular FSB and the RB brace that goes with that, and the other is my enormous 2" aluminum radiator.

I'm really curious about four things, and detailed photos would be bitchin:

1. Getting from the front mount, around the radiator with as much tire clearance as possible (I'm on 15x8 +40s so I already run the sway bar at full lock)
2. Getting around the front mount on the coldside as well
3. Clearing the lower radiator hose that runs into the side of the motor right where the turbo outlet is
4. clearing all the AC relays (AC/PS are gone, all the relays and the extra fan remain) and the huge radiator at the throttle body

I have my ideas; I think I can use a single 90 degree pipe, two 90 degree silicone couplers, and a single straight coupler to mate up with the FM coldside pipe I got from an M.net member who upgraded. I am totally lost on the hotside setup, though.

Samnavy, since you've got a T25 and a Begi EM, I'm really, really interested in your setup particularly. I did a quick search and I found Andy Floyd's setup, but I couldn't find any detailed pictures. What did everyone's setups end up entailing, how many couplers, etc? I'm probably going to order everything from Treadstone performance, and use t-bolt clamps. I'm not totally against going underneath the radiator with the pipes, but my car is really low (11.75" front) so I think I might have ground clearance issues if I did that.

Thanks everyone.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Dude, with no AC or PS, your worries are over. Go to a junkyard and find a radiator hose that will replace the factory hard S-bend. I think late 80's Accords and early 80's Volkswagon Rabbit/Fox's will work, among many others. Even if the hose you find is a smidge big, T-bolt clamps work wonders. Just walk through looking at every car. Some cars the upper rad hose is the long one, and others it's the lower. But most junkyards cut the lower hose to drain the system before putting it on the lot. I took a section of the stock hose with me to make sure I got the size close. The hoses are usually about $1 each. I bought a dozen that looked like they were close... used the best one.

Here are posts of all my IC ****:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...&postcount=185
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...&postcount=205
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...&postcount=208
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...&postcount=210

My IC has 2.5" inlet/outlet, but due to my ignorance at how pipe vs coupler sizing works, I ordered 2" pipe/couplers and ended up just making things work. It's amazing how well silicone expands when you boil it and use some KY. The 2" pipes were awesome for routing. I would have had a couple fitment issues (not major) with 2.5" piping.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Don't forget about the guy that used that flexible accordion style "Fits-All" radiator hose to replace his lower one so that he could route the IC piping how he wanted without worry. Pretty commonly available and autoparts stores i believe.

92MX5

iTrader: (1)

I have a few photo's here that might help with some ideas:

http://flickr.com/photos/92mx5/sets/993111/

2" out of the turbo, transitioning to 2.25 into the IC, then 2.5 out of the IC to the intake manifold.

Cheers!

Jeff

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

ok I finally was able to take some pictures of my setup for you Savington. I honestly do not like the way it is routed and would prefer just a straight out and down under the radiator, then straight up to the IC inlet

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Akaryrya, is the the Begi hit you got there? Could you post more pics of your piping? I just picked what looks like the same kit but without piping, so I need to piece those together.

Thanx
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