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If you are asking how to do a DIY budget turbo setup, you don't know enough to do a DIY budget turbo setup. Though you are closer than a lot of people we have show up here. Keep reading, follow the formula and all will be good.
The quickest way to totally change how your NA6 feels is to put in an ECU and tune it nice.
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1504683)
Unfortunately, you bought the wrong car.
You will need to spend 800 or $1,000 on a 1.8 rear differential and Axle shafts and driveshaft. The 1.6 diffs often fail at stock power. The next big expense you cannot live without is a megasquirt ECU. Figure a bargain-basement unit will be about $400 up to build yourself. You will also need to purchase a wideband oxygen sensor at about $200. Then you'll need a stronger clutch because the 1.6 clutches do not handle any boost at all. And the cheap ones on eBay don't work. Figure 300 to $450. You will need injectors. Even used ones will have to be cleaned and tested so you don't blow up your only motor so figure 300 to $500. The eBay RX-8 injectors are almost all fakes and not 550cc. I almost forgot, you will need a variable throttle position sensor since the 1.6 cars don't have one. Figure about 40 bucks for the modification. Now you are ready for boost parts. They are by far the cheapest portion of your build. Anybody can figure those out on their own so I won't bother. They listed a DIY Megasquirt in their list. Clutch I agree with. Mine held a whole 3psi... Injectors, just go flow force. You don't need the VTPS to tune. MapDot works just fine for accell enrichment. |
Originally Posted by WigglingWaffles
(Post 1504841)
Do you also use it for hemmeroid creams and toothpaste?
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1504664)
you gon learn today
OP, no matter what it's gonna be rough because as others have mentioned you're starting from what many here consider to be the "wrong car." But as someone who did it anyway and still enjoys their car, all I can say is follow Sixshooter's first comment and if you can afford to do all that and learn to do it correctly then it shouldn't be too hard to finish from there. Or just read constantly while you save up more money. |
Originally Posted by sometorque
(Post 1504713)
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If you've not turbo'd a car before, don't rush it. If you're trying to keep the budget down without sacrificing quality, its going to take a while to gather your parts. Rushing a build is only asking for problems that are going to take more time and money later to fix. Do the megasquirt first, learn how it works, collect parts along the way, read everything on the board.
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Originally Posted by 1A Dan
(Post 1505077)
If you've not turbo'd a car before, don't rush it. If you're trying to keep the budget down without sacrificing quality, its going to take a while to gather your parts. Rushing a build is only asking for problems that are going to take more time and money later to fix. Do the megasquirt first, learn how it works, collect parts along the way, read everything on the board.
I'll do the megasquirt first, and then hoard some parts over the course of the next year or two. I just wanted to make sure I had a good idea of what I needed so when I find a good deal I can jump on it. I know it would have been ideal to start with a 1.8, but the reality is it isnt really easy to find a miata where I live period, so this is what I have. I will learn along the way, it's not like I have all these items in an ebay cart ready to check out, and doing it on a "budget" does not mean I want to cut corners. I just want to save money where I can. |
1) People have said multiple times that the stock diff on a 1.6 will fail at stock power levels...which is like 75 hp.
2) You have stated that you'll replace the diff later because you'll start out at conservative power levels...implying that you're confident it will not fail at whatever power level you intend to achieve initially. 3) The only logical conclusion from this is that your target initial power is less than stock. |
The stock 1.6 diff CAN fail at stock power levels. If you do clutch dumps with sticky tires and such.
Mine has been humming along at over 140rwhp for the last two years (up to 180, pushing for 200 soon, I don't expect it to last much longer). I don't see why everyone is so upset someone.might blow up their diff that noone cares about and need a tow home? |
Would ban just for mentioning RX8 yellows, personally.
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Haha, that seems excessive.
In my defense, they're real RX8 injectors, and when I got them, they were considered an acceptable choice. |
I like how we're discussing the parts he'll break with a setup that's little more than a wet dream
We don't even know tha OP isn't a 5 year old Nigerian prince that came here to solicit us #FAKEBUILD |
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1505148)
The stock 1.6 diff CAN fail at stock power levels. If you do clutch dumps with sticky tires and such.
Mine has been humming along at over 140rwhp for the last two years (up to 180, pushing for 200 soon, I don't expect it to last much longer). I don't see why everyone is so upset someone.might blow up their diff that noone cares about and need a tow home? no one ˈnō ˌwən/ pronounpronoun: no one
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1505159)
Ive seen this made-up word used a lot lately. please allow me to clarify:
no one ˈnō ˌwən/ pronounpronoun: no one
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1505159)
Ive seen this made-up word used a lot lately. please allow me to clarify:
no one ˈnō ˌwən/ pronounpronoun: no one
I'm assuming you're not using "Ive" in its suffix form. If you're using it as a contraction for "I have" then there must be an apostrophe between the letters I and V. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1505158)
I like how we're discussing the parts he'll break with a setup that's little more than a wet dream
We don't even know tha OP isn't a 5 year old Nigerian prince that came here to solicit us #FAKEBUILD |
ive nava seen n00ne use a gr33dy kit on a yata'
n00ne ama take dat as a sign of disrespec |
Originally Posted by Engi-ninja
(Post 1505156)
Haha, that seems excessive.
In my defense, they're real RX8 injectors, and when I got them, they were considered an acceptable choice. Not you, silly. OP. |
I kinda like you and Ive been drinking so ima take a stab at it
buy a cheap used t25 (or Ebay?)- sure ebay cast log manifold- yup Find a used fmic off local classifieds- an intercooler isnt a front mount until you.... mount it. Read this if youre trying to be a cheap ass like myself https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...tercool-83180/ ebay or used ic piping- look at mine or aidandj intercooler routing, its less than $100 ebay lines- buy some hose, buy some ends, make them. Or hit up MKturbo diy megasquirt (lots of soldering experience)- yes, do this first rx8 yellow injectors- gtfo with that cancer, flowforce or diy flowforce or dont turbo your car. (or id1ks, or really an ev14 injector that meets flow needs) what's a good option for a cheap Downpipe- your mom. |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1505201)
Not you, silly. OP.
I agree, though, get flowforce. It's not that much more monies, and much more betterer everything else. |
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