Can someone help me with building my first diy turbo?
 

So I'm wanting to build a solid, reliable 200whp-225whp turbo system for my 92 1.6 long nose and want to do it right the first time. I know the first thing ro before even touching the engine is beef up my drivetrain which is already in the works. Can any of y'all help me on this one? Thanks!

Mkturbo.com and $3000-$4000 to do it all.

Okay, thanks, I've actually talked with Lars already and that kit seems like my best option. Now I've already got a perfectly working 1.6 engine, would it make any sense to swap a 1.8?

EDIT: I think at this point I'm gonna go with the TDR Rotrex kit since it's so complete and dyno readings are at 215whp

I am Lars just FYI. And my setups are far more fun then a comparable rotrex setup. They offer a nice thing called mid range tourqe.

Oh shit my bad haha. Okay, would a tdr fuel card work in place of a Megasquirt? Because I can't find one for under $800

It might. I have not ever used piggy backs, nor do I plan on it. If you are not in a huge hurry I will have a few new things coming out in about a month and a half.

Oohh you now have my interest. And yeah I'm not in a huge hurry because I want to do this right

The right way is following 6 steps.

1. Standalone ECU and wideband. Budget $800-$2000. I highly suggest a MS3 of some sort with an Innovative MXT-L or AEM UEGO. Hydra, Aem, Haltech, Adaptronic also make stand alones, but there is less forum support. Install this on the stock motor and learn how to tune.

2. Buy larger injectors and install them. Retune. Budget $300-$1000. You want to get get EV14 injectors. I suggest FlowForce injectors as they are the best bang for the buck EV14's. Anything also from Injector Dynamics is good. Generally higher hp guys on here run ID1000's. You don't want older RX8 or RX7 or etc... injectors. Most RX8 injectors on the market now are fake chines knockoffs and who knows how well they flow, and RX7 injectors have shitty control at low pulse widths so idle control can be hard to get good.

3. Stronger clutch. SuperMiata, FM, ACT are the only brands you want to be looking at. Budget $300-$1000 for this. This is another place not to try to cheap out on due to how much of a pita it is to change a clutch when your shitty ebay one fails.

4. Figure out your IC setup and BOV. Budget between $350-$1000 for this. Generally run 2.5" on the cold side, and 2" on the hot side.

5. Buy quality turbo hardware. TSE/MKTurbo/FM/Artech/BellTuning/Fab9 is where you should be buying from. Budget $1500-$5000 for all this. Install all this and tune your fuel and spark table in boost.

6. Enjoy the stock motor and be between 220whp-250whp. At this point you will have a reliable setup that you should not have to do any major work to as far as the turbo setup goes. Now you will start spending money on engine cooling, and suspension and such to catch up to your new found horse power.

I think this will be the best route to go. I'll start with the injectors and Megasquirt. I see that the MS2 is about $400 cheaper than the MS3. Is there any major difference between the performances?

Yes you want the MS3. That is the end of the argument.

Gotcha, spend my money only once right?

Lars is steering you right on every point, though I don't recall whether he addressed your 1.6 vs 1.8 question.

I'm pretty well aware of the torque gains and the swap with a 94-97 1.8 swap isn't too tedious as compared to a VVT

I wish all 1.6 owners were as smart and good-looking as you

Haha, thanks man. I used to work on motorcycles and trucks for the most part up until now. So far I'm loving the simplicity. Maybe down the line I'll swap in the 1.8

What I would give to be in this state of mind.

The issue with this is that you have to change quite a lot of things when you do the swap (manifold etc.)

You should get a megasquirt, wideband, and swap in the 1.8 to start with. You'll already have more power and you'll definitely enjoy it. Then swap in injectors.

Then get the MKTurbo setup.

If you're planning an engine build, you can always do that on the 1.8 block while you wait to install it and learn to tune MS while running the 1.6 N/A. You'll have to change the tune with the 1.8 though.
The engine build isn't necessary for the MKTurbo setup. Lars designed it to work reliably with the constraints of the stock block in mind.

Oh also...
Welcome to the madhouse.

Ahh gotcha. I think I'm going to beef up my drivetrain first. I've got a lead on a 3.9 torsen rear end with axles and driveshaft. Then I might think about doing the 1.8 swap and possibly a 6 speed for added strength. Let's hope it doesn't take too long

If you are not building a motor, I would skip the 6 speed. You can buy a good number of 5 speeds if you do blow yours up for what a 6 speed costs. Also most people prefer the feel of the 5 speed over the 6 speed.

Okay, I've been hearing the 5 speeds have better syncro than the 6 speeds too. And if that's the case I'll just look for a low mileage 1.8 then. Can I use MS3 from a 1.6 on a 1.8? Or would have to get the 1.8 and an MS3 to match?

As far as your concern the MS3 you buy should match the year of the wiring harness in your car. So since you have a 1.6 NA, you want to buy a MS3 for a 90-93.

The actual MS3 ecu can run anything from a chainsaw motor to a v12. You can buy a braineack MS3X put it on just about any gas power motor in the US. The PNP ones not so much as most of them are adapted for the specific wiring connectors in the miata. You could theoretically open it up and change it, but its not worth even thinking about it.

Alright, I've seen braineack mentioned tons of times now. What does he offer with the MS3? Is it less expensive than the MS3 PNP Pro?

Start searching. If you can't find that you are going to have bigger issues long term. You also need to start reading a ton more. You should read every sticky thread in every section on this site. Then you should go read 4-5 pages back worth of build threads. Then go read everything in the megasquirt section.

The megasquirt has to match the wiring in the car. If you stick to the 1.6 harness, you should be fine, if you install a new engine harness, you will need to swap MS harnesses as well afaik.

Makes sense. I think I'll just stick with my 1.6 for now. Or at least until it blows up

Wrong answer.

:eggplant:

Aww why?

So close, yet so far

BODMAS Failure.

Man, getting busted up in this thread. :dunno:

A 1.8L is nice but not mandatory. It all just depends on your end goals. I have had really great success with my turbo 1.6L, winning my regional class in autocross and now doing HPDE events. It's fast enough for the chassis and the grip I get out of super 200s and budget Bilsteins. If you have the budget then go for the 1.8L and then turbo when the funds allow. All the other advice you have been given is great and should really be followed as best you can. Also, if you go to that 3.9 rear end (and still NA) with the 1.6 you are going to notice a sizable loss in overall acceleration. The 1.6 just doesn't have the torque for it. I built an RX7 diff for mine with a 4.10 and it was awful. Even with the slight power increase on Megasquirt.

I have a Youtube channel that goes over some of what it takes to turbo your 1.6L, as well as some setup items with MS2. Spring for MS3 if you can afford it. I built this thing about 4 years ago and wish I would have gone with MS3 now. If it was a daily or more than a HPDE/autocross car then I would have switched over to MS3.
https://www.youtube.com/user/90civichb

Okay, I plan to follow every bit of advice Lars has given me. And I'll probably go for the 1.8 swap then do his turbo kit.