My turbo build.
08-25-2007, 02:21 PM
#1
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My turbo build. (More pics)
Finally got her running last night, Thanks to Eli (M2-1028 on clubroadster) for your help. Anyway, Its a mostly Begi setup, set to 7psi
Begi manifold
Begi T25/28 ball bearing oil & water cooled turbo
Begi 2.5" down pipe
Begi fmic
1.8L injectors
DIY dual feed fuel rail
Begi AFPR
DIY intercooler piping
Ebay boost controller
Autometer boost guage
DIY heat shield
Fuel pressure guage
Still need to replace fuel pump and clutch (hopefully next weekend). I think the oil return is leaking at the turbo so I need to take of that, but otherwise she runs great at 7psi except for the clutch slip. So here's the pics. Feel free to comment.
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Begi manifold
Begi T25/28 ball bearing oil & water cooled turbo
Begi 2.5" down pipe
Begi fmic
1.8L injectors
DIY dual feed fuel rail
Begi AFPR
DIY intercooler piping
Ebay boost controller
Autometer boost guage
DIY heat shield
Fuel pressure guage
Still need to replace fuel pump and clutch (hopefully next weekend). I think the oil return is leaking at the turbo so I need to take of that, but otherwise she runs great at 7psi except for the clutch slip. So here's the pics. Feel free to comment.
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Last edited by levnubhin; 08-27-2007 at 11:48 AM. Reason: More pics
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08-25-2007, 02:43 PM
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Lol, thanks to u. BTW thanks for the quick shipping
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08-25-2007, 02:47 PM
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Hey, nice wheels mang, thats what I run with some azenis I cant tell if you got those too. Anyway, looks nice, but after running megasquirt for awhile I couldnt go back. also i like your choice of material for the heatshield
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08-25-2007, 02:56 PM
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08-25-2007, 03:22 PM
#6
What have you done to tune it?
Did you correctly set the 0~ fuel pressure?
With the stock fuel pump and 1.8's, you're probably at the limit of your fuel at 7-8psi. I hope for now that you're running on wastegate only and haven't dialed in anything extra with the MBC.
The only way to tell for sure is to get it to a dyno so you can watch A/F's and the fuel pressure gauge during a pull. Have you tested the stock fuel pump to see what it will put out? I think you should probably dial the Begi to it's max rate of rise to get the most out of the pump as you can. I can see the adjustment needle is backed out a lot... I suspect (without doing the math) that you're running lean.
How far does that pressure gauge read? You'll need one that reads at least to 130psi if you plan to keep the 1.8injectors and turn the boost up anymore. I did a writeup on a really trick way to monitor fuel pressure from the cockpit without the expense of an electric gauge. You just use WI quick-connectors... here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....1&postcount=24
With a wideband and the ability to see your fuel pressure, you've got a basic tuning solution.
With the gap between your heat shield and engine block, you're going to slow-roast your heater-core lines... get some good heat wrap and make sure the entirety of the hose back there is shielded... but I totally dig the diamond-plate... looks very nice!
Ditch the goofy *** plastic crap covering the heater overflow line and the throttle cable. All that beautitul Begi hardware ruined by Pep-Boys ricer ****.
The rest of the setup looks good. It's very clean and I looks like you really took your time and put in the effort. It's quite similar to mine overall, except it's a slower color
With MS and 440's, you're ready for 15psi!
Did you correctly set the 0~ fuel pressure?
With the stock fuel pump and 1.8's, you're probably at the limit of your fuel at 7-8psi. I hope for now that you're running on wastegate only and haven't dialed in anything extra with the MBC.
The only way to tell for sure is to get it to a dyno so you can watch A/F's and the fuel pressure gauge during a pull. Have you tested the stock fuel pump to see what it will put out? I think you should probably dial the Begi to it's max rate of rise to get the most out of the pump as you can. I can see the adjustment needle is backed out a lot... I suspect (without doing the math) that you're running lean.
How far does that pressure gauge read? You'll need one that reads at least to 130psi if you plan to keep the 1.8injectors and turn the boost up anymore. I did a writeup on a really trick way to monitor fuel pressure from the cockpit without the expense of an electric gauge. You just use WI quick-connectors... here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....1&postcount=24
With a wideband and the ability to see your fuel pressure, you've got a basic tuning solution.
With the gap between your heat shield and engine block, you're going to slow-roast your heater-core lines... get some good heat wrap and make sure the entirety of the hose back there is shielded... but I totally dig the diamond-plate... looks very nice!
Ditch the goofy *** plastic crap covering the heater overflow line and the throttle cable. All that beautitul Begi hardware ruined by Pep-Boys ricer ****.
The rest of the setup looks good. It's very clean and I looks like you really took your time and put in the effort. It's quite similar to mine overall, except it's a slower color
With MS and 440's, you're ready for 15psi!
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08-25-2007, 06:39 PM
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I still have to adjust fuel pressure. I will do that tomorrow as I was actually just looking over Begi's instructions on adjusting the AFPT. The MBC isnt hooked yup so im only at 7psi. My pressure guage only reads to 100 psi so I guess I will have to get another one. I will definately check out you write up about checking fuel pressure. Can you please tell me what a wideband is? The heater hose is already completely sleaved with stuff I got from wirecare.com. Your right about the red wire loom it does need to go. Future plans do call for MS with 440's but after XMAS.
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08-25-2007, 11:51 PM
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08-26-2007, 06:48 PM
#10
"Wideband" or WB02 measures the amount of unburned oxygen in your exhaust. There is a sensor that you install (preferably in your Downpipe) and a small control box of some sort that has the little computer brain in it.
By measuring the amount of unburned Oxygen, you can determine whether you need to add or subtract fuel to get the proper Air-to-Fuel A/F ratio you're shooting for. 14.7:1 is stoichiometric, but forced induction cars like to run a little richer than that because a little extra fuel helps keep combustion temperatures lower.
By measuring the amount of unburned Oxygen, you can determine whether you need to add or subtract fuel to get the proper Air-to-Fuel A/F ratio you're shooting for. 14.7:1 is stoichiometric, but forced induction cars like to run a little richer than that because a little extra fuel helps keep combustion temperatures lower.
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08-26-2007, 09:36 PM
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Sweet now where is the best place to get a wideband and there good and bad ones?
Thanx for all ur help.
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Thanx for all ur help.
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08-26-2007, 10:21 PM
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UMM, if you say so
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08-26-2007, 10:22 PM
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Yeah im lookin for one.
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08-26-2007, 10:33 PM
#17
Lev, there are two popular WB02's that we usually recommend. The first is from Innovate Motorsports called the LC1. It goes for under $200 but does not include a gauge. What it does include is a really nice software package that you load onto your laptop. Since you really only need to monitor WB02 readings during tuning, driving around with a laptop on the passenger seat for an afternoon isn't that big of a deal.
The other is called the AEM... and it's controller is integrated into a standard sized gauge and it goes for about $250.
Almost all widebands include an output that you use to feed a gauge... and another output you can use to send the A/F reading wherever you need it... like into your engine computer. In a stock car, the engine computer takes a reading from the stock 02 sensor in the exhaust, but stock sensors are always NB02 (Narrowband 02). A stock cars exhaust gas will almost always be somewhere near stoichiometric and the sensor doesn't need as big a range as we do when trying to tune forced induction engines. Normally, when you buy a WB02, you can eliminate the factory NB02 sensor and use the additional output of your new WB02 to feed the engine computer (especially if it's an aftermarket ECU).
DIYAutotune, makers of Megasquirt, recommend and sell Innovate products, so most MS guys run it.
Guys who don't want to spend extra money on a gauge usually get the AEM cause it includes one.
WideOpenTuning, who posted above, is a forum contributor and can get you good rates on both types of WB's.
The other is called the AEM... and it's controller is integrated into a standard sized gauge and it goes for about $250.
Almost all widebands include an output that you use to feed a gauge... and another output you can use to send the A/F reading wherever you need it... like into your engine computer. In a stock car, the engine computer takes a reading from the stock 02 sensor in the exhaust, but stock sensors are always NB02 (Narrowband 02). A stock cars exhaust gas will almost always be somewhere near stoichiometric and the sensor doesn't need as big a range as we do when trying to tune forced induction engines. Normally, when you buy a WB02, you can eliminate the factory NB02 sensor and use the additional output of your new WB02 to feed the engine computer (especially if it's an aftermarket ECU).
DIYAutotune, makers of Megasquirt, recommend and sell Innovate products, so most MS guys run it.
Guys who don't want to spend extra money on a gauge usually get the AEM cause it includes one.
WideOpenTuning, who posted above, is a forum contributor and can get you good rates on both types of WB's.
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08-27-2007, 09:28 AM
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Where did you see that?
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