wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I have a new one that is completely odd.

I have a Boash BOV in a VTA setup. Car run fine like this. Then it die(read my other post). Well got the car idling fine but the bov is blowing air out(yes I said it is blowing air out) at idle. If I put my hand over the bov and seal the leak, the car dies. If I unhook the vaccum line of the BOV and seal up the new hole the car dies.

I can have the car in netural and rev the motor fine, as long as the leaking BOV is hooked up right.

WTF is going on?? I am about to pick up a known working BOV to fix that.

noted information:

stock 1.6 ECU
1.8 motor
1.6 TB
still have the shitty AFM(stock 1.6)

The car ran fine until it died on the road. The only I did to fix my other problem was removing the VC to algin the CAS easier.

Any help would be great cause I am lost.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

see the screw on the TB? turn it counter-clockwise a bunch of rotations, try again.

dustinb

I'm somewhat confused. There wouldn't be any boost at idle, so you would only feel vacuum at idle through the BOV. As posted, I would check your idle setting, but this is what would be happening to your car right now: Your AFM box will be metering the amount of air it sees, and since air is also coming in at your blow off valve, your car would be running leaner then it should (more air then fuel). By blocking off that BOV, your car should see the proper air/fuel mixture, and should run better.

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

sorry to tell this isn't my first boosted car and yes the BOV is blowing air. I have even confirmed it with a piece of paper.

I also tried adjusting the Idle air valve screw like you said Brain. If I open the valve all the way and then cover/removed vaccum of the BOV the car barely ran and ran like ****. Popping often and idling like ****.

i am 100% at a lose here

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you're running super rich. dunno why. this a new issue? change anything?

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

I have change nothing. The car was running good before the CAS. It was running a little rough, kind more of an high idle and running rich but once load was applied to the motor the car smoothed out. Now if I try to add load to the motor the car just bogs down.

dustinb

The only other thing I can think of that would cause that situation is a messed up AFM.

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

Well I have tried unhooking the AFM and the car dies

Also if I push the flap door open without adjusting the TB and car started to die.

This made Eric and I both think that it kinda of sign as the AFM is still working.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I didn't think the stock ECU would let the car run right if you were VTA anyway.

Did you try routing the blowoff back into the intake tract behind the afm so that at least all of the air gets metered?

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

Well... I know the stock ECUs don't like VTA... the weird thing is that the car has been running for about a month now in VTA with out any major issues. Granted until now the BOV didn't leak at idle. I have a Greddy RS next to me that should seal at idle. I need a bigger hose so I can try it.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

First you have to get rid of the AFM to VTA till then you have to recirculate or is bound to screw up your idle, and air/fuel ratio...and yeah it looks it's also leaking A lot!!

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

ok yea I know VTA with an AFM is not the correct way and has it issues... but 1) the car been like that for over a month no real issues.

2) even if I remove the BOV signal, closing the BOV the car dies so the BOV being VTA doesn't explain why when it's not leaking the car dies..

Explain why the big "hole" in my intake system is an out instead of a nomal in and why when that "hole" is sealed the car instanely dies.

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

What vac line source are you running to the BOV? Did you forget to hook the vac line back up to your FPR and what vac line source are you using for your fpr?

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

I have a single line running from the IM to the BOV. Also a single source from IM to Boost Gauge. My FMU and FPR is source together of the back of the manifold. Everything is hooked up, and just like it was before the car dieing.

I have double check to make sure I didn't change since before my CAS backing out.

dustinb

Unplugging the AFM will kill the car right away, because it turns the fuel pump on and off. You can jumper the fuel pump to stay on through the diagnostic box, but I would still think your AFM is reading improperly.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

if the car is running and you unplug the AFM it should still idle, since the vacuum is pulling the flapper open, the fuel pump stays grounded. You should also be able to start the car with the AFM unplugged, but you cannot rev the motor.

dustinb

Not if you unplug the electrical connector, because the flapper is jumpering two wires on that connector.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you make a valid point. all i know is I was able to do it. i could idle the car, then i couldn't rev it, then i looked down and said oh yeah, plugged it back in and i was off.

Fidgitk

iTrader: (3)

Is it possible that he is running too lean? Since he is losing metered air out the BOV it makes the car run richer. When he plugs off the leak it runs leaner and dies.

TrickerZ

iTrader: (6)

^ was what I was thinking. No WBO2 I take it either to find out.