chra oil in port question
 

Ok so here is whats up. I recently bought a Td04h-15g (greddy turbo) with a broken shaft and a rebuild kit. So I did some searching and found some turbo's with compatible shafts. I ended up purchasing a blown Td04h-13c off of a volvo (and yes they are both flatback compressor wheels so the rebuild kit will be compatible).

Now I have already test fitted and the chra fits the greddy exhaust housing perfectly. I intend on using the 13c wheel since it was already lined up with a shaft so i will not have to rebalance. I know its smaller but maximum performance is NOT my goal. A budget learning experience is what I am looking for here. So long as it will hold a steady 5-6 psi I will be satisified. The volvo guys complain about this turbo being restrictive. But I'm not worried about since their motors are 2.3's and mine is a 1.6. That and the greddy exhaust housing (the one I will be using) is considerably bigger than theirs.

So now to my question. As you may already know the chra for the greddy turbo has an oil inlet on top and an outlet on the bottom. Now the chra on the td04h-13c has the obvious outlet on the bottom. It came with a pipe boltet in the side, and on both the top and the other side it has threaded holes.
So do i just plug off the two holes on the side and stick my oil inlet from the greddy on the top? Do I just plug up the holes with bolts and threadsealer?

The below photos are as follows
The first photo it the 13c wheel on the greddy chra. See that gap? Thats why I dont want to just run it like that.

The second photo is the 15g wheel on the greddy chra. This photo is for comparison purposes so you can see the gap is much less.

The third and fourth photos are the td04h-13c chra. See the Threaded holes I am talking about?

The last photo is the compressor housing for the td04h-13c. It has a built in bypass valve. Another reason I want to run the 13c, I won't need to purchase a bypass/blow off valve.


Thanks for reading
This specific turbo is proving very difficult to find info on.
Jared

Ok, now i have a feeling your New to you turbo that is the 13c off of the Volvo has 4 holes, one top one bottom, and one on each side, correct?

Unfortunately you picked up a water cooled turbo, and as such need the fittings from a Volvo and the piping from a early 90's 740,760,780, or 940 or 960 turbo, OR you can spend more and buy SS lines and some rather large and I'm sure not common fittings.

That turbo is limited because of the cold side being rather small and the actual ability of the turbo not being able to exceed ~18psi before it cannot physically spool any faster. I honestly would tell you to go back to the junkyard and get a T3 off of the earlier Volvo's with a .47 hot side, and you will be set as its oil cooled, and has more cfm's as well as can produce more power higher up in the curve...... just my 2 cents....

But if you want to keep that turbo, you will need water lines for it, and splice into your radiator hoses as well, as it runs with the coolant to the car.

Edit:
Also let me add, that pipe you are holding on to the turbo with in those pictures is in fact the water line, one of two. those are suppose to be on the sides and then the oil feeds top and is gravity bottom. So you need both oil lines, plus the other water line...... Seriously, go back to the junkyard, get a T3 with its 2 oil lines cut off, and then go from there...... i would NOT mess with my coolant lines for some crap JY turbo if you have an option not too.

Check Turbo bricks for prices on T3 from the Volvo's, Also the Hot side should be smaller and the cold side be bigger. IIRC the cold side isnt that much bigger than the hot side, putting a bigger hot side on it would make it spool slower, and still be restricted by the cold sides stock size, as its a bitch compared to the T3.

Solution:
Get a Used T3 oil cooled

Pics from 2007?!

I think his camera is just off date.

junkyard has no turbos
i had to get this blown one off of ebay
if it is gonna be too much of a PITA to hook this one up then I will just pay to have the 15g wheel and shaft balanced

and yes i dont set the date on my camera

so then can i just get some brass barbed threaded hose connectors for it???

You need the water lines, which you can get from Pnp for next to nothing along with the oil lines, the oil lines IIRC are threaded inside, but stock mount with a gasket and a flange. The water lines have a bolt that is hollowed out and has a hole in it, allowing the water to get to the rest of the line and into the coolant hose.

Now, why not just post on TB for a used T3? Im sure someone will sell one if they have it, normally they dont go for much more than like 100....... and that would be better than the 13c all day long.....

money
now that i have the shaft from the td04h-13c i have a complete greddy turbo
and i have a rebuild kit from g-pop shop
alls i need to do is rebalance that
be cheaper than buying another turbo
and like i said in my first post
maximum performance is not my goal
a budget learning experience is my goal

if i cant find that water inlet thing then i will just rebalance the greddy turbo

one last question
if i find that water inlet
does it matter which one is in and which one is out?

and thanks i really do appreciate all your help

when you said i can get them for next to nothing from pnp, what is pnp?

pick and pull/ pull a part

The Volvo turbo uses M10 Banjo bolts for the coolant.
The same M10 is used for the oil input.
In stock form there are hard-lines going to it.