Yeah, it's a new clutch. Sounds badass to me.

About the nitrous, just run more boost in higher gears. I had 100 shot direct port with a progressive controller, WOT switch, and MSD dual window switch. Worked well, but it's not needed with a turbo. With MS you have antilag and launch control. I have no traction till third. If anything, I could put a switch to switch to high boost in 3rd or something.

Damn another thing I forgot to add to my list. I bought a greddy type s ebc from a member here. With it I can do a remote switch that will let me switch between two boost levels. The only thing is I don't want to run my boost past 22psi because then its way out its efficiency. And I think my block should handle more power so its kindof wasted. Then again I can think of it as a safety margin. But then again nitrous acts as a cooler.

Wait didn't I say I had a month or so. I'll decide once I see how the car behaves with turbo only. If its enough its enough. Never had a short wheelbase 300hp+ car so we will see.

Ok today was a very productive day. Received some boxes...

Attachment 208654

Intercooler
Attachment 208655

Steering Wheel
Attachment 208656

Struts
Attachment 208657

BOV
Attachment 208658

Couplers and clamps
Attachment 208659

Greddy EBC missing the solenoid
Attachment 208660


Fidanzda Short Shifter

Exhaust Cam (no longer needed so its for sell)

Momo Steering wheel Adapter

I finished taking all the accesories off the block and found a nice exedy stage 1 clutch. Then I started on the interior.

First I had to have some fun with the sawzall...

This
Attachment 208647

+ This
Attachment 208648

='s This
Attachment 208649

Attachment 208650


The interior ended up stripped
Attachment 208651

Then I put it back together to make it look like this
Attachment 208652

Attachment 208653

I'm going to cut off all the sharp metal stuff this weekend. And i'm going to put the center console back in once I get the tranny in again.

I dont understand why you cut half the dash out.

lol +1

also don't use a heat gun on the sound deadening material, just a big sticky goopy mess, try the dry ice method instead. Also +1 on those measurements for me and pat

Because I had a dash, and a sawzall and I don't care how it looks. Actually the car is going to be a stripped car and i'm looking for every lb. And by cutting right side I lost atleast 5 lbs.

Also i'm going to build myself a custom dash when I get around to it.

if you're that ---- about weight. why dont you start dropping some pounds off of your body. i mean this in a constructive way. not to sound like a dick

LOL, the dude cut the dash in half...

I don't like shifting that much, or skipping gears on downshifts.

6 spd with 363's are like cookies and milk.

a 6 spd with 410/430's is a stump puller to say the least. In a low hp car, ok...but in anything over 300 hp what are you gonna do with 1st gear?

I agree 100%. When I upgrade to the 6-spd I will do the 3.63's at the same time.

Hey don't diss cutting the dash in half it was fun.

FYI update coming later.

New Parts
 

I haven't done much lately waiting on parts and laziness. All I've really done is I removed my convertible top. (I am looking for a cheap crappy black top or a cf lightweight hardtop).

I did some new parts including my belfab hp kit. Looks complete and got here quickly. Jim at Belfab thanks. I'll be taking it to the machine shop tom and should have it back in a week or so.

Supertech pistons
Attachment 208463
Attachment 208464

Belfab Rods
Attachment 208465

Springs, Retainers, and Seats
Attachment 208466

Oversized Intake and Exhaust Valves
Attachment 208467

Arp Head Studs and Main Studs
Attachment 208468

Adj. Cam Gear
Attachment 208469

Racing Beat Springs
Attachment 208470

Looks like the parts gathering part of the build is coming along well.

I sent you a PM with pics of my cheap crappy black top.

You talk about 1st gear with a 6s/4.10 combo like 1st with a 5-speed or 1st with the 3.636s would be even SLIGHTLY more useable. Once you're past 250whp, 1st gear is a writeoff regardless of what your gear ratio is. It's a stupid argument.

The 6-speed and 4.10s is the best track box because of the 3-4-5-6 combo, which is what you actually USE. I have never used 2nd gear on any track. 3rd becomes the new 2nd, and you get a 70mph 2nd gear which makes it EXTREMELY useable, ESPECIALLY for a high horsepower car. 4th is the new 3rd, which runs you past 80mph, and 5th and 4th are the exact same and 6th/5th are close enough to consider them equal as well.

The 3.636 ratio nullifies all of those advantages. Your 2nd gear is still totally useless, but now you have a tall 3rd which means you're lugging the car out of tight corners, and you spend more time in every gear which means slower acceleration.

Put two equal cars on a road course, one with 3.636s and one with 4.10s, and regardless of the horsepower level, the 4.10 car will go faster. Period.

Chucky, you're doing a BEGi-SSM with a GT2871R, a stripped interior... and KYBs? Fail.

Can we get a price list in case people want to keep track of how much it would cost to do everything your doing would be?

I still don't get why you cut the dash, there are so many other places to loose 10lbs on a miata.

I'll think about getting a price list but i'm not big on people knowing how much i'm spending on my car though.

One reason is the dash is going to be a custom aluminum one soon. The other reason is if I can remove it from another location and this one then I have removed twice as much. And every little bit counts when building a true lightweight.

I am confused. You're worried about 5lbs of weight but you went with AGX's and simple springs? You'd gained more with a proper coilover setup than you are by loosing the 5 lbs. haha

LOLOLOLOLOL how much does coilovers cost and how much does cutting the dash cost... LOLOLOLOLOL

Don't be jealous of my mad sawzall skills. It won't be the last.