clocking?
 

You guys have mentioned clocking the tubo multiple times...

I've searched...where can I find out what this means?

It means rotating part(s) of the turbo assembly with respect to another part(s); you can typically rotate the center section independent of the compressor and turbine housing or rotate just one or the other housing.

Is there any easy way to clock a greddy kit with jims rx7 I/C pipes?

When you clock a turbo, you are esentially rotating the COMPRESSOR section so that it points the outlet in a different direction. Since the mounting of the turbine side must remain the same because it's attached to the manifold, and the center section must remain the same becasue the oil drain must point down, the only thing you're really rotating is the compressor.

Go to the vbGarage:

m2cupcar's compressor outlet point towards the fender.

brgracers points down

s2brians points down

some guys point directly up at the hood and they run a 90 over the top of the turbo.

CLOCKING simply refers to changing the direction the compressor outlet points. The stock Greddy turbo can be clocked, but your current IC pipes would not work... but I'm sure they could be modified... better to have a more efficient run to the intercooler fabricated instead.

Well, I would say clocking refers to rotating any of the turbo assembly's parts with respect to another, be it compressor housing, turbine housing and/or center cartridge.

yep- because with a diy setup things get so customized that something somewhere will inevitably need to be rotated.

Ah, so its moving the turbo-kinda to have easier access to the IC/DP, depending. I've never heard it called clocking.

How hard is this to do?

It's very easy to do. Two methods. Use circlip pliers to compress the ring clip on the turbo and turn the compressor housing. OR, put the turbo in a vise and apply a lot of force. Biggest issue is making sure that all your feeds/drains are clear. You will also need to make a small bracket for your external wastegate (if you have one) to keep it in the same position.

Perhaps you are correct. I know the center cartridge will always need the oil drain to point down, or as near vertical as possible... but you could change manifolds or IC routing and need to change either the turbine or the compressor without the other one moving, so yes, I guess it does refer to any part.

I suppose rotating the turbine could be argued, but if the flange is tilted then the turbine needs to be clocked. Some would argue my turbine was clocked 180*... others might say 90*. ;)

hmmm, I def. need to look at some pics...does moving one section or another not mess w/ the turbo itself?

No it will not. They don't care which way the other one is pointed with relation to the other, which is why clocking is possible.

I will need to clock to some degree any T25 that I buy in order for the compressor outlet to point down, and will do a complete writeup including before and after pics and everything else that is needed. It should be here first of next week if the guy will answer his email.

I went and found (and read the post/links here) I get a bit more whats going on...since I'll be using a t25 also I can't wait to see what you write! :D

OT, are you in virginia beach or outside of it, I've got family that lives in Newport News. :D

I'm in Virginia Beach just off the 64 and Northhampton Blvd, basicsally right in the middle of Norfolk/VaBch. I just yesterday sealed the deal for a used Garrett T25. It's got a standard T25 turbine inlet and 5bolt turbine outlet. Both the compressor inlet/outlet are ready for couplers so I don't have to bother with adapters. He's including a actual Garrett full rebuild kit for $140 to my door.
It should be here next Wednesday, and I'll start the rebuild that evening. I'll have every single part by then except DP, Bipes, and Piping... and I do mean everything.
I've got Lazzer408's used Bipes reserved (I hope), but I made fun of his new bling-bling 17's so maybe he's mad at me. I'll probably go with Begi for a DP/test pipe, and then once I get everything installed, I'll get a set of eBay IC piping that looks like it will do the trick. That should do it, coule more weeks.

wow...very nice, where did you find that? and what did it come from if you don't mind me asking.

I'll be heading up there in a couple of months, if your running by then I'd love to see your car!

I think it was the test unit/mockup/spare part for a speed shop down in Miami. The owner decided to get rid of some stuff on Craigslist and I spotted it. He said in the ad it needed a rebuild, so he offered a Garrett kit at cost when I contacted him. I think after I told him what the turbo was going to be used for, he felt that need to help a guy out who's on a budget and just getting into the hobby. We've sent about 20 emails back and forth, he sounds like a great dude. I'm sure it was on several cars prior to this but was never an OEM part, but rather a Garrett off-the-rack model.
Anytime you're in the area, let me know and we'll schedule a demo.

ah, very nice find...

I'd like to find one from Garrett but the prices seem to be really high even for used turbos/rebuilt.

i would really advise against the bench-vise method tom listed. the compressor housing is aluminum, the CRHA is ductile iron, the circlip is spring steel. too much risk in gouging the aluminum housing or binding the impeller. i know a lot of people have done it this way, but the risks are pretty big.

you DON'T have to remove the circlip, just compress it. i found a long pair of 90* pliers works better than snapring pliers, because the circlip is so large and strong. northern tool carries these for under $7 and are usually instock at their stores.

so for $7 you can do it correctly and NOT risk destroying the turbo.

thats always a plus...I like the idea of not destroying a turbo...b/c I really don't have a huge idea of what I'd be doing.