Clutch Suggestions
 

Well, seeing as how this is the DIY forum I thought this would be the best place to pose this question. I'm looking for an inexpensive clutch/flywheel to put into my '99 that's going to be turbo'd. My stock one has 104k miles on it and I'm kinda iffy as to how long it would last after I put the turbo on. Don't need anything crazy, Prolly enough to just support about 200whp.

So, what do you think?

Have you tried that search function? I know for sure you will find several threads.
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+1
and by the way the stock one will not hold there is no maybe.

Yep, tried it, found a bunch of threads...Nothing with real follow ups though.

Try harder

We are trying to get away from spoon feeding as a forum. At least go do some research into clutch companies, make some personal opinions, your considered courses of action and then we can present our opinion to you. Don't just post and expect us to do the leg work.

For your hp goal, just about any stage one clutch and better will work just fine.

If you like the way the stock fw feels, use that. If you want your car to rev match quicker and be rev happy, get aftermarket.

SkiZero, I that you just did some clutch searching, but I don't think you tried the "titles only" method.

Here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sea...earchid=365733

For 200whp, the no-brainer clutch is the ACT HD. It will hold your 200whp just fine. If you're going to drift, drag, or have a very heavy clutch foot, then you might want to step up to a puck disc instead of the stock disc the HD comes with.

There are a lot of guys who just puchased Clutchnet Cluthes. Check out their 2xRed Pressure Plate and Organic disc for unit comparable to the ACT. You can always add a 6-puck to the Clutchnet as well.

For daily driver, a puck isn't the best thing to live with, but the lockup and power holding is superior to a regular disc if you think you're going to beat on it a lot.

Prior to investing in a lightened flywheel, I suggest you drive a Miata with one. Personally, I don't like them at all for DD.

IF you don't need absurd power go with an ebay stage 3. This all depends on the power you wanna make and how you drive the car man.

F1 racing stage 2 or 3 i have stage one works perfectly fine off of ebay.

i bought a stage 3, ill let you know when i put it in thiss weekend, along with my motormounts and all the goodies.

FWIW my 99's stock clutch is taking the headwork, MS II, and the 100 shot just fine. I've ran 7 bottle through it, ran it in the 1/8 mile 6 times, and give it hell and it holds fine. I personally wouldn't touch the clutch till you need to, you may be fine without changing it. I know most here will disagree, but I'm only saying this to
a) not waste money
b) because I'm making 200whp or so on the bottle with NO slippage.

When musanovic says there's no way, I disagree.

my stock clutch slipped at 160 ish hp

my F1 stage 3 holds 200 just fine.

To me a clutch is more than an on off switch. You have 3 pedals in the car, each is an analog input, and each has their own adjustment on what the car does dynamically. Also, it's not invisible to the drive train, it rotates just like the crank or flywheel. It's more than just buying something as cheap as possible that can hold the power.

This is a very true statement. However, IMO clutches are overpriced. I mean, what's the difference between a 40 dollar PP from Autozone and a 400 dollar one from ACT or whoever? I mean it has stiffer springs, maybe stronger forks and whatnot, but 10 times the price? If it were twice as much I'd buy it. Most performance parts are not 10x what the OE replacement cost.

i have a 01 with about 50,000 miles on it with a home made kit and the first thing to go is the clutch i drove the car for about 30 miles and that it. it started slipping. i did not drop the clutch nor did i slip it. i am not sure what kind of clutch you have but stock holds maybe 200 if even that. i guess the OP will see first hand who is right.

trust me pat the low end torque of the Turbo or SC is worse than the 2 secs of nos abuse. 7 bottles of nos is what in relative hp time 210 minutes

Yea, I'm around 200-210whp on the bottle. I don't know it's a stock clutch. As far as I know it is, but I've never had it out. I do plan on putting a stronger one this summer though for the SC project. I'm not saying who's right or wrong, I just said he could try it and see. If you don't need a part, why buy it? If he makes 190whp and it holds fine, I wouldn't rush and upgrade for nothing. Besides, you said yourself you tried it. I mean, if your clutch never slips would it be the first thing you upgrade?

Edit: yea magna, but the nitrous snapping from 0 to 100 hp in .001 seconds is hard on a clutch too, worse than a turbo, and it takes it well so far.

I have an ACT HD for sale with only 9k miles i will sell for 250 shipped has pressure plate and disc retails for over 400

i want to save the OP downtime and frustration.:hustler: you get your car running and enjoy the first drive than shortly after you have to retire it for a period of time.:vash: that sucks. or even better when a SRT4 pulls beside you and you know you can hand it to him but the ignorance of changing a clutch prevents you from doing it.:vash::vash::vash::vash: that is just my opinion if i knew it would go out that fast i would of done it right away. i am glad to see that you are not having any problems i wish everyone was so lucky.
ps if you do change the clutch buy ACT HD it will pay off in the long run. :)

I'm supposed to have an ACT extreme on the way if Mikef85 will quit jerking me around. He said he'd pull his motor thurs, ship friday, monday at the latest. Sunday he said he was pulling the motor monday, would ship tuesday at the latest. Tuesday he said he'd ship it Wednesday. Still haven't heard from him.