I want to drill and tap/weld AN fittings on these housings. Can these barbs be removed from 1) mixing manifold & 2) thermostat housing? They dont look like theyre cast into the main housing so im hoping a good tug with some vise grips will do the trick?

 

Yeah, they come right out. Tap the hole and screw in whatever you want to.

The one on the hotside of the valve cover comes out too.

 

Thanks for the help. So tired of dealing with barbs and clamps. AN everything now!

Anyone else see these? http://www.radiumauto.com/Dry-Break-Couplers-P1003.aspx

So much win. So much $$$

 

From the site (I like the last one):

Important Notes:
-These fittings flow equally in both directions and can be installed either way.
-The higher the operating pressure, the more difficult it becomes to connect and disconnect the coupler.
-Due to the dry break coupler design, there will be some inherent flow restriction (pressure drop).
-Naturally there may be a drop or two when engaging and disengaging.
-Do not disconnect fittings while pumps are running.

 

Gods damn, those are some expensive fittings.

Potentially silly question: since you're already committed to doing some serious work on the cooling system, any reason you're not doing a rear-thermostat reroute and just eliminating the front housing altogether?

 

Because imo every reroute I've seen looks like s**t with hoses cobbled together and improper bends, etc. I may go with a reroute as the engine is out all winter but it will be a "custom" setup with tig welded aluminum piping

 

AN into the WP inlet manifold is easy with a Summit (or similar) NPT to AN6. Notice that the 180 degree hose end is "modified" (actually the effin thing is a biznatch to tighten without bending that hose end).

I believe that if done properly, the reroute can look decent. I used the stock '91 WP inlet hose to accomplish the 1st 90 degree bend off of the back of the head. It has a really nice angle upwards when mounted this way that points directly at the barb on my Supermiata crossflow (straight shot). Prior to the crossflow, I grabbed a nice S off of the local parts store hose wall and had a really clean look to the stock radiator.

Just look at #4 of a few stock block/head motors and you will see why reroute is money.

EDIT: the last pic is the hose I used for the stock radiator. The 90 degree bend isn't the inlet hose, it is the metal inlet pipe that mounts to the frame.

 

I have the same rad. Didnt realize how straight of a shot that is...thanks for the picture. I think I could fit a straight piece of aluminum pipe in there. then i could source water from the back of the head for ultimate cleanliness

 

Has anyone had any luck reclocking these fittings without them leaking? I'd like to rotate the water pump inlet fitting to point towards the turbo.