Coolant reroute ?
 

I am getting the BEGi DIY for someone to install. Trying to save some money - that I do not have.

At this time I am ok with 175 whp. So I thought that with the KOYO 53mm and a coolant reroute and a MEGASQUIRT I might be ok. - i.e. no early engine death.

If my assumption is correct, how many hours would it take to complete a coolant reroute and costs of parts needed.

Am I getting over my head??? :brain:

Probably not necessary for a street car.

Re-route is $250-$350 for the off the shelf kits. Couple hours of shitty work due to close proximity to firewall.

Thanks It will be "on" the track most of the time. What might be a safe boost and afr with that set up.

On track? Then yeah, i'd do a re-route.

Safe boost? Don't know. Bit of a meaningless question without far more information.

AFRs, i try and stay in the 11.8-12.2:1 range. I'm told that max power is probably in the 12.5:1 range depending on tune and blah blah blah but i don't run bleeding edge in my cars.

Thanks for the info. I will never go over 12.0:1.

I'd do the reroute whether track or street. About 20K into my install, managed to crack my block at #4 when I got over-enthusiastic without warming up the engine. I'd like to say that if I had a reroute, that original block would still be alive. Maybe, maybe not.

The MT.net standard reroute is the BEGI spacer, GM truck hose and Kia waterneck. Good pics of mine in the build thread for the Silver car. The spacer is the most expensive part at ~$90 new. Total cost of these parts (all new) is around $125. I always install with the engine pulled -- which makes it easy. Installing with the engine in and the limited space in the back looks like a real pain.

I run and track with an OEM auto radiator and no intercooler at ~190HP. No heat issues in TX.

BTW, I'm a crazy Grandpa too!

I hope you dont actually mean that you will never go over 12.0:1

reroute is good. 53mm koyo is probably over kill...but not bad to have margin. I would atleast give 2-3 hours for the reroute if you are doing it inside the car.

Thanks!

I guess I do not need this then

BEGI Miata Turbo Rear thermostat coolant re-route

Well, I lost 2 engines due to detonation. I had the FFS on both engines. No one can tell me why I lost the 1st engine. I figure that the $275 timing card failed. The 2nd engine blew up because the Spec Miata shop instructed their Perfect - No Fault Tuner to tune it like a Spec Miata. Shit I never knew squat about AFR at that time and figured they should know about that. After the engine blew up, I found out that I an afr of 15.3:1 @ 5,300 rpm was fucking crazy. We both got our lawyers and we both lost.

Nightmares are almost gone.:inout:

nahhh.

you need this: XL-1215 radiator hose. you cut it, similar to revlimiter's blog post.

then get the spacer from begi. I ended up with a kit with barb fittings and two gaskets I think. Not sure if that's what's in the link, but you can call them (or maybe read the details, could have a list of components).

Then you need the Kia water neck (0K24715172A).

Lastly, I had to extend the wires on my temperature sensor. Not sure if that's dependent on model year of your miata...

And if you're splicing hoses, get one of these inline drain kits from Jegs. Fantastic way to connect two hoses.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394762680

This is my reroute shopping list:

Spacer ($93): BEGI Rear Thermostat Spacer 1990-2005

Waterneck ($23.50): Miata Thermostat Housing

OEM Thermostat Gaskets x 2 ($3.62 each): GASKET,THERMOSTAT (B621-15-173) - $3.62 - B62115173

Front Waterneck Block-Off ($20): Trackspeed Engineering

Radiator Hose ($15 -- partsgeek.com link provided but get wherever): 05 2005 Cadillac Escalade Radiator Hose - Cooling System - AC Delco, Dayco, Gates, MacKay, Lower, Upper - PartsGeek (Dayco Radiator Hose -- Upper)

Plus some odds and ends. If your thermostat is old, replace it while you're doing this. Look at the condition of your heater hoses and bottom radiator hoses too. I've got a lot of pictures of the reroute I did in my Silver car build thread. I also removed and plugged all those little, annoying coolant lines that run all over the engine and tossed the 1.6L Air Valve (made an aluminum block-off for that). Bottom line, uber-reliable.

BTW, the AFR you should target is much more related to manifold pressure (i.e., boost/vacuum) than it is to RPM. Make sure you are rich in boost. When cruising on the interstate, you can run it lean without worry.

Thanks, Just sent my order to Stephanie

Hate to sound like a cheapass, but is there any other option than the BEGI spacer? I get that it's a boutique piece, but that price point seems mighty steep.

That depends... do you own or have access to a lathe, drill press, and an assortment of drills and taps? Is the 01-05 MLS headgasket cheaper? :dunno:

Cooling system is already compromised in the Miata so its probably best to save your shekels until you can do it right with a known working set of parts. Hornet's outline above is the "cheapass reroute" thats proven to work. See my sig about reinventing the wheel.

Not looking to re-invent the wheel at all, Just wondering if there were any other off the shelf less fancy solutions at a lower price. Since there doesn't seem to be, I'll pay up.

Thanks hornet! I have an engine that is due for a T belt change, so I think I will roll all these parts into that job, plus a 94-00 headgasket, since I have an 01.

The Begi spacer was developed as a joint effort between Begi and many folks from this forum, principally Joe Perez. Then it has been proven by hours of real world use. Hence, other than price, I would be surprised if it were not viewed as the best starting point. Moves the TStat and return to the back of the engine, while pretty much leaving everything else (heater feed, sensor) in their stock locations (functionally).

Being who I am, I may try something else, but I know it will be a risk.

If you really want to save money on the spacer, then just keep an eye out for a used one. I scored a used one for my Red car for about $40. In fact . . . I think there's one in the classifieds as we speak (not mine)!

Hornet: The text and links from your shopping list post are now on the MiataTurbo Wiki :bigtu: Thanks for posting that up :party:

Ha! I'm infamous.

Hopefully, those links will stay alive for awhile.

:party: :party: :party:

pretty easy install just annoying because you have to get your hands behind the block should take about an hour at most 2.

I have implemented the old begi reroute with a twist.
I'm using a 3 way ball valve to adjust the water flow to heater/top rad hose.
I should be able to test it on a track come summer time.
Parts cost around 60-70$.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395852364

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395852364

Yuck!

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...reroute-77744/

What in the hell....?

He was already told in his thread that it is a stupid idea, but I guess he did it anyway.

Congratulations of fixing a problem that shouldn't have existed in the first place and gaining nothing in return.

a 3 way valve? Did you even use pipe tape on the front of it? That looks horrible and unreliable.

You mean you don't like your engine bay to look like the plumbing section at home depot?

Plumbing: Not just for your shitter anymore.

At least he didn't use PVC right?

"But guys I used PVC sealer!"

(Which BTW is the most toxic shit in the world)

Pretty much. The purple primer will permanently stain ANYTHING, and that glue... Even in open areas that shit will make you dizzy

You can laugh all you want.
Temp balance was checked with an IR gun. Stock way #4 is hottest as obvious.
Driving with the reroute the temps are more or less BALANCED through out.
Means #1 and #2 run hotter but as long as I'll see less than 212 at the track I don't care.

I was never a believer of terms like "may" or "could happen" like many of you use. Show me facts.
I run with UG and the temps are fine. No leaks whatsoever.

Second Son?

Keith

I'm thinking to reroute, but have a few questions...
 

I know its a pretty old thread but if anyone here can give a few pointers, it would greatly help. I tried looking on this thread in the coolant reroute and under race prep, but I couldn't quite find my specific question. I want to go and reroute the cooling, I've seen some videos, and have done countless of searches and read different options, but I have a concern. If I go megasquirt, will I still need the connection/wiring to the temp sensors? I've seen some videos requiring to extend the wiring, and then others just leave the sensor open. Is that because the megasquirt already reads engine temps? I know that when going MS, you're able to delete, or properly said, remove the Air mass flow sensor, but I'm not sure how it works in terms of cooling. The car currently is stock, 94 1.8 motor, eventually I want to go SC, and plans for car are weekend drives, cruise, meets/shows, occasional track days, and power golas between 200-220 WHP. I don't want to do it all in one shot, I'm taking it one-step at a time. If there is a thread with this , I'm really sorry in advance, and any redirecting would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

never mind, I did a few more searching and have found my answer! Please disregard thread....thanks!