Cooling System question
dumb question do the reroute
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Dude. Cooling is one of the most extensively covered topics on this forum. If you ask questions like this instead of searching, your cat credit score is going to go down the shitter really fast.
here's a recommended read: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/ |
do the reroute
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define: advantage
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do the reroute
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There is a reason why coolant goes through the heater core. It is critical for circulation and heat transfer. Think of it as a mini radiator.
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do the reroute
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I bypassed my heater core when I did a reroute. Really a reroute should be done to help that #4 cyl stay cooler. There are some diagrams floating around showing the stock coolant path and how the path is restrictive for the #4. I did the reroute the same time I did an aluminum radiator and the heater core delete. I have no data to prove anything. I looked at it as a way to lessen potential failure points. If you are going to go turbo I think a coolant reroute is cheap insurance. I did mine with Skou's spacer, Kia water neck, some generic gaskets, a 30(?)mm freeze plug, and a cut up Yukon upper rad hose. Like $125 bucks with some added hardware. Ebay radiator but you are taking a gamble with them. Now that I am turbo I start to creep up to the 210-215 marks under heavy and extended mountain driving. Not tested on track, yet.
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb
(Post 1404384)
I bypassed my heater core when I did a reroute. Really a reroute should be done to help that #4 cyl stay cooler. There are some diagrams floating around showing the stock coolant path and how the path is restrictive for the #4. I did the reroute the same time I did an aluminum radiator and the heater core delete. I have no data to prove anything. I looked at it as a way to lessen potential failure points. If you are going to go turbo I think a coolant reroute is cheap insurance. I did mine with Skou's spacer, Kia water neck, some generic gaskets, a 30(?)mm freeze plug, and a cut up Yukon upper rad hose. Like $125 bucks with some added hardware. Ebay radiator but you are taking a gamble with them. Now that I am turbo I start to creep up to the 210-215 marks under heavy and extended mountain driving. Not tested on track, yet.
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Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1404392)
Thanks man! I saw some ebay reroute kits for 135 ish with everything.... I think I will do some data logging once the turbo is in and see how she holds up. The 1.6 temp sensor is on the back of the block so should give me a good idea of # 4 temps. I will report back and collect all my cats that I will be due from these lovely people :)
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Originally Posted by mr steve
(Post 1404392)
Thanks man! I saw some ebay reroute kits for 135 ish with everything.... I think I will do some data logging once the turbo is in and see how she holds up. The 1.6 temp sensor is on the back of the block so should give me a good idea of # 4 temps. I will report back and collect all my cats that I will be due from these lovely people :)
Don't let this place get to ya. There is some great information on the board and really helpful people. Your 1.6 should have two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The rear one is the correct one to use if you are running Megasquirt. The bad part is that it will be post radiator so you will not get an accurate reading of the #4 cyl temps. That's really where the correction comes in with the reroute. Now #4 will get direct cooling instead of #1, the way it was designed in the FWD cars. I'm not familiar with the ebay reroutes. I wouldn't hesitate to post a link here and see what sort of criticisms it receives. |
Originally Posted by 90civichhb
(Post 1404402)
Don't let this place get to ya. There is some great information on the board and really helpful people. Your 1.6 should have two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The rear one is the correct one to use if you are running Megasquirt. The bad part is that it will be post radiator so you will not get an accurate reading of the #4 cyl temps. That's really where the correction comes in with the reroute. Now #4 will get direct cooling instead of #1, the way it was designed in the FWD cars.
I'm not familiar with the ebay reroutes. I wouldn't hesitate to post a link here and see what sort of criticisms it receives. |
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Looks pretty solid to me. Would be nice if it was Zinc plated hardware but he isn't making a huge profit on that kit. That spacer looks almost exactly like mine. If you have a 1.6L car you may need to extend the wiring harness for the coolant sensor but other than that it looks good.
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See this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...r-mount-88962/ Buy it from his site instead and feel free to read through that thread and ask him any questions. He's great! |
See this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...r-mount-88962/ Buy it from his site instead and feel free to read through that thread and ask him any questions. He's great! |
Originally Posted by 90civichhb
(Post 1404384)
I bypassed my heater core when I did a reroute. Really a reroute should be done to help that #4 cyl stay cooler. There are some diagrams floating around showing the stock coolant path and how the path is restrictive for the #4. I did the reroute the same time I did an aluminum radiator and the heater core delete. I have no data to prove anything. I looked at it as a way to lessen potential failure points. If you are going to go turbo I think a coolant reroute is cheap insurance. I did mine with Skou's spacer, Kia water neck, some generic gaskets, a 30(?)mm freeze plug, and a cut up Yukon upper rad hose. Like $125 bucks with some added hardware. Ebay radiator but you are taking a gamble with them. Now that I am turbo I start to creep up to the 210-215 marks under heavy and extended mountain driving. Not tested on track, yet.
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