Gdbyrd

When you guys are piecing together your set up...where do you find the majority of the parts you need? I've found a lot on ebay...but I always feel nervous buying stuff there.

Why is it that so many people go with standalone units? I know all of the advantages..but it seems like for low boost applications, an adjustable FMU would suffice.

A side note: I've been a car nut for some time now. I did a DIY turbo set up on a 1997 Sunfire GT several years ago and have been into the FI/4Cylinder scene ever since. I really enjoy my Miata, but would love to squeeze some more HP out of it.

I took the time to read the Sticky on this forum, some great information there.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Shore Motorsports is where I go but i'm sorta related to the owner.

People go stane alone cause they are getting relatively inexpensive compared to the total costs of bolt on bandaids.

For low boost applications, bolt ons are ok though.

I'm glad you read the sticky, that's cool.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

We have a few good members here who can get us stuff (like Turbo Tim) as well as a classifieds section for used stuff. Used stuff for a DIY turbo rocks.

Gdbyrd

I felt I had to say that...I'm friendly with a lot of forums for a lot of different cars..and I can't begin to tell you how many times I've asked simple questions and been given the run around with the automated response of read the stickies.......

Bandaids, as you put it, are also much easier to manage. There's very little work involved-less to go wrong. It is not fine tuned...sure some things will suffer..but there isn't much easier for your normal guy.

I've seen multiple turbo headers' up for sale...but honestly for my application I'd imagine a log style manifold would probably work better...they seem to be less likely to crack..less stress..I was thinking a T25 variant..something relatively small for faster spool time. My normal RPM range is about 2-5K. I never really go above that.

It's is VERY hot where I live..so even though I plan to run relatively low boost I think it necessary to get an intercooler as well as upgrade the cooling system.

As for timing..it seems like the standard is pretty much a Bipes. I really need to look into that. I understand the mechanics behind timing..but I've never had to mess with it.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

anywhere and everywhere...only buy from sources you can trust...most of the people in the classifieds are good for it...on ebay look through the feedback, and as far as co. goes any one of our sponsors are legitimate and offer great deals to us here
GL in your build

y8s

iTrader: (8)

wideopentuning on this forum can get you deals at www.atpturbo.com

cardriverx

iTrader: (12)

You only rev to 5k? you are missing out! An intercooler is almost a must for me, the ebay ones work very well by the way. I have a bipes, and its a great thing for a diy kit. With an intercooler, just set the base timeing to 14 degrees, and the bipes will retard 6 degrees under boost. It is to prevent detionation.

Gdbyrd

I feel BAD running past 5K, hehe. I feel like my little micro machine is going to break apart! How much do bipes run for? Whaaamx5, what hood is that?

cardriverx

iTrader: (12)

Used you can usually get one in the $200 range. And trust me, 7k rpm is good for the engine. When I dynoed mine stock peak power was at about 6250. 95.6 HP baby! Take it to the 7250 rpm cutoff!

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Miata has a good rev limiter that works just fine the car is built very ruggedly, and several people report the valve springs being the only liabilitysub 8K rpm seeing as you have a stock ecu and rev limit please use all the hp you have. Still my turbo hits 15 or so psi by 5K easy. I doubt there are to many on here that won't say the same about theres. Yes a FMU system with WI is the simplest and best solution.
A bipes and IC is just gonna crash on you budget and make you less power

LOLA - 92

Victorias Secret!:gay:

Gloko

Besides my Rx8 the miata is one of the only other cars to date that I have no qualms hitting the rev limiter when driving....In N/A form you pretty much have too anyways:gay:......

nester

iTrader: (6)

I bought most of my stuff from Turbochargers.com.

I actually work there now.. but I was a customer before an employee..

I also sell some stuff on the side.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

its a erebuni cf vented hood...needed some serious trimming if you have a 1.8, the 1.6 you should be ok...great quality, had for almost 4 years...i just recently painted it due to some heat fading 9is that a common phenomena, i guess)
seriously, if you do not rev to red (braineack, lol) the car hates you, it really enjoys going all the way, like me...lol

Gdbyrd

Very nice hood. I have the 1.8 : / But I really like it. I drive my car daily now. I don't race it..don't even think there are AutoX meets where I live. So I don't see any of the high RPMs unless I'm in a hurry to/from home...and even then I try hard not to speed.

And...MY CAR LOVES ME...UNDERSTAND? Woot for going all the way though.

I'll start piecing this stuff together..as I get to certain areas I'm sure I'll have questions to ask.....

First up...an exhaust manifold. For around 100$ I can get a 4-1 with a T25 flange on it from ebay....It seems like a log manifold is a lot more money(Also most are T3 flanged)..better quality I'm sure..The 4-1 would have many advantages..but I'd imagine it would crack and/or is probably poor quality. Your thoughts?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I bought from a lot of different places. Best thing I ever did was find a local hydraulic/hose/pipe shop that I still go to for all my fittings/hose and they hooked me up huge.
Ebay: Voodoo MBC, ETD Intercooler, Couplers, Pipe, Saab BOV, Boost Gauge.
This forums classifieds: Turbo, Bipes, Begi AFPR, OG's O2Clamp, Air Filter.
Begi: Manifold, DP.
Hampton Rubber Supply: All hose, fittings, fuel pressure gauge.

As for Revving... my WOT shifts have always been between 6800-7000 and I've been boosted for about a year now. Before turbo, at WOT I don't think I ever shifted below 7k. If you're not willing to drive it hard and use all the power now... boosting is a waste of money.
Seriously, these engines are bulletproof stock... and damn near still bulletproof in the low 200whp range with a good tune. Once you start pushing the boost above 250whp do guys start seeing longevity issues. By longevity, I mean if a stock car lasts 200k miles before needing a refresh... installing a 15psi turbo at 100k miles means the engine will now only last until 150k miles.

With Megasquirt being so damn easy nowadays, that's the first place I'd start with my build. Get your ECU installed and up and running... then Begi Manifold/DP and a used Turbo w/crossover pipe @6psi. Run that at 150whp for a few months and then upgrade to WaterInjection or an IC... tighten your wastegate arm to give you 8psi (170whp) on wastegate and a switch for your EBC for 15psi(240whp). Enjoy until the engine blows (50k-80k) later and replace with used engine for $300.

BTW, you don't say what year Miata you have.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

stay away from ebay mani's...you will spend more money later, they are ****...you can build your own for around $200 if you have the right connection
i may be making log mani's pretty soon if you have the patience/time...
also, take it from me, i had very unusuall circumstances when i first got my car, therefore the CF hood and fiberglass fenders...i really didnt have a chioce (well i did, but i chose easier cheaper over more expensive OEM stuff)
if your car is in good condition, just leave it stock and boost it, just trust me
fiberglass is a biyotch...
just try to scrape things here and there and you'll come out cheaper with better quality...like samnavy says, use local hydraulic/hardware stores for these generic things...good luck in your build, people pn here love to chime in

Gdbyrd

Sorry about that Sam. I have a 1996. As I already stated I don't like to drive the car hard...I never have with any of my cars. Just a little push here and there. I don't find it as a waste of money...I doubt a lot of the people here are really taking full advantage of their cars, or are getting any sort of compensation for doing so..So I guess you could qualify that was a waste of money too.

Today on the way to work I passed 5K and went into 6K..it is a totally different car at those engine speeds..but it just feels so wrong, lol. Anyhow. I'll push it a little hard I suppose, might as well enjoy every bit of the car I can..that next 2K RPM I don't usually touch included. I'll start picking up stuff for the car..a few pieces a month. I don't see myself tearing into it until the summer.

I'm a school nurse and having 2.5 months off in the summer should give me plenty of time to get stuff done, lol. Also in the summer months I work in the hospital..and that's all extra money. So I should be having a huge bump in play money by then.

--In all honesty. How difficult is it to work with standalone units? When I was working with the Sunfire..it was like the last resort..everyone avoided it because it was pretty complex....And those that went that route usually regretted it..I love the driveability of the car stock. I just want more hp. I do not want to get anywhere near compromising the way it drives now. Thanks for all the help guys. Whaaam, thanks for saving me. Was planning on picking up one of the manifolds this evening.

krayzrac3r

www.homedepot.com

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

no prob...take you time gathering your parts...and good deals are always coming by in the classifieds here...just check everyday and you'll see something eventually
more free advice to get the most out of this place
1. state your location in user CP
2. add few details about your car in signature
3. donate 3.50 a month to the forum, you'll thank me for this later
4. creat your vBgarage so people can get familiar with your car and your
goals for it
5. always read the FAQ
do that and no one will pick on you for being a nurse