Diy intercooler piping teaser
06-09-2009, 01:59 PM
#21
Looks good, however it's a lot more work than is needed especially when you can do it without having to cut holes and remove fenders.
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06-10-2009, 12:16 AM
#24
Hey Ive never seen routing like that before, thats pretty slick 
Im considering doing something kind of similar, except on an NB, so I think I can route mine down, like this:
but i suppose you cant do that due to the headlights, haha
but anyway keep up the good work and keep us posted!
Im considering doing something kind of similar, except on an NB, so I think I can route mine down, like this:
but i suppose you cant do that due to the headlights, haha
but anyway keep up the good work and keep us posted!
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06-10-2009, 08:55 AM
#28
What are you talking about? Do you really think the air moving through the charge pipes sticks around long enough to absorb heat post ic? IF anything its a better method if you have a IC with the correct up facing endtanks. More direct routing, less bends = faster response, better flow.
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06-10-2009, 09:55 AM
#29
If the charge pipes are absorbing some of the heat the radiator is... radiating.... you're expecting the air passing through the hot pipes to not get compromised? That's bold.
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
I'm betting you could route the charge pipes out the fender, down the side of the car, wrapping around the tail lights, back up the passenger side, and into the intake, effectively using 18 feet of chargepipe, and you wouldn't notice a hint of hesitation.
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
I'm betting you could route the charge pipes out the fender, down the side of the car, wrapping around the tail lights, back up the passenger side, and into the intake, effectively using 18 feet of chargepipe, and you wouldn't notice a hint of hesitation.
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06-10-2009, 10:34 AM
#30
Boost Czar
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like neo, i doubt it matter how hot the pipe really. the air is moving so fast within the pipe it will be hard for it to absorb much/any heat from the surface of the pipe. some, but not much.
likewise, unsure about the bends, I'm sure its fast enough that bends/length doesn't matter, but it certain would be more "ideal" to be as straight and short as possible.
likewise, unsure about the bends, I'm sure its fast enough that bends/length doesn't matter, but it certain would be more "ideal" to be as straight and short as possible.
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06-10-2009, 12:10 PM
#31
I don't really disagree, it's just that aluminum radiates heat very easily, so although the charge air passing over the hot section may not be altered much, there is heat inside the tube regardless, and cool air will absorb that heat.
I think it looks cool, no doubt about that.
I think it looks cool, no doubt about that.
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06-10-2009, 12:26 PM
#32
If the charge pipes are absorbing some of the heat the radiator is... radiating.... you're expecting the air passing through the hot pipes to not get compromised? That's bold.
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
Take a map torch to an aluminum pipe, get it to 200*F, blow air at turbo-psi (10psi, whatever) through the pipe and tell me the air coming out the other end isn't warmer than the air going in.
Not to be rude but this is like 3rd grade 101.
On the "less bends = faster response" statement:
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06-10-2009, 08:50 PM
#40
Boost Pope
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