DIY Low Boost Turbo Installation
Hi Everyone,
I just recently purchased a 1990 Miata with 70K miles that runs great, just a little ugly. I wanted to put a modest turbo on it running 5PSI maybe even 8PSI. I've been checking EBAY etc... for parts to cobble up a system and wanted to know which is better a cast manifold or stainless? Stainless would be lighter but I suspect it would be more likely to crack. Regards Bonanza |
Lightness of the manifold is irrelevant from a car weight standpoint. Look at the BEGi-S kit for a low boost application. You can find everything you need by searching for this.
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same answer/response you got to this question when you poised it on M.net - lol
are you lazy or just hard-headed? try reading and learning |
Dear MX594M,
I'm don't even know what m.net is, and if there is someone else with the user name Bonanza, I understand your reply. It's interesting that I get flamed on my first post. BTW, I'm not lazy and have read a lot of material. I was asking others opinion on the matter. Respectfully, Bonanza |
m.net is miata.net
someone over there has posted a highly similar post, old ugly miata looking for cheapest way to boost as I said, high similar post to yours if it is not you, my apologies |
No worries, there are probably a lot of 1990 ugly Miata's due to age. That's why I bought it, gives me a chance to make upgrades both mechanically and cosmetically at a low entry price. Body kits seem to be cheaper than body panel!!!
BTW, apology not required. |
I would not call a 90 or a 94 ugly, I like my front mounted air brakes
a 90 with less than 100K miles is a low mileage treasure do you have a short nose crank? are you aware of the issue? the 1.6 is a revy engine, responds well to smaller turbos/churbos |
Mine is ugly because it needs new rocker panels, front fenders, paint and a new convertible top. I'm going to repair the rocker rust damage, order new fenders (haven't decided on fiberglass or metal). But mechanically it's very good with only 70K original miles. Don't know what crank I have. How do I identify it? What are the issues?
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If ebay is the only place you will buy things then the cast manifold is the better way to go. What are your plans for turbo, downpipe, engine management, injectors, exhaust, intercooler and tuning? Not to mention that weak 1.6 differential that will destroy itself. Might as well upgrade the clutch while you're at it.
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Get a BEGi-Shanghai kit, bug Braineack or Reverant to build you a MS, get injectors, profit.
It's the cheapest, easiest, and best solution for what you want. Yes, it will run you less than the eBay crap. |
short nose crankshaft
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...rt+nose+crankt if you keep the boost [e.g., torque] low enough, you can delay a lot of the above but when the diff eats itself, plan for a 1.8 torsen conversion/replacement you do know that boost is addictive, right? and all addictive habits cost money what part of world do you call home? |
Thanks for the info on the crank. I know horsepower is addictive, spent many years racing IROC and motorcycles. This car is going to be built as a fun car for my wife. I'd really like to keep it to 5 to 8lbs boost. Good Sunday car. Home is Toronto, Canada.
I'm not trying to squeeze every last ounce of performance out of this, just overall drivability with a small increase in horsepower. I have planned on buying a 1.8 diff as a long term upgrade. |
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