DIY Projects - Comments & Suggestions
10-30-2006, 08:27 PM
#1
Boost Czar
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DIY Projects - Comments & Suggestions
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...3841#post53841
Let's hear you comments and suggestions. Feel free to post here to add to the mix.
Let's hear you comments and suggestions. Feel free to post here to add to the mix.
Last edited by Braineack; 10-30-2006 at 08:43 PM.
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11-01-2006, 06:10 PM
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thought you guys might be interested in these electronics kits that are sold by "jaycar" (an electronics retailer) down here in australia. these things are cheap (you gotta build them yourself - easy enough if you know hot to solder), but they do a good job.
of most interest to you turbo guys would probably be the electronic boost controller, and the digital fuel adjuster.
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
the dfa lets you fit bigger injectors and retune your air /fuel ratios for example, or just lets you get the most out of the stock set up. it is a piggyback fuel computer i guess, an interceptor that sits betweem the stock afm and ecu. it works by letting you alter the voltage at 128 different "load points" so you can trick the ecu into thinking the engine is getting more, or less, air than it actually is. thus the ecu will deliver a different amount of fuel. i currently have the dfa fitted to my 1.6 (altho this will be going when i get a megasquirt) and i've leaned out the mixtures at mid - high loads. i have definately noticed a good increase in power and responsiveness. will look at the boost controller when i go turbo, but anyway here are some pics of the install (you can also see my $14 air / fuel meter in these pics, which has been really helpful in tuning the dfa)
this last one shows the hand controller , which just happens to sit nicely in the spot for the ashtray
there are some good writeups of these units on the autospeed website.
anyway, i know i haven't been here long so you might be a bit suspect of me, but no, i do not work for or have any affiliation with jaycar. just thought i'd share
of most interest to you turbo guys would probably be the electronic boost controller, and the digital fuel adjuster.
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
the dfa lets you fit bigger injectors and retune your air /fuel ratios for example, or just lets you get the most out of the stock set up. it is a piggyback fuel computer i guess, an interceptor that sits betweem the stock afm and ecu. it works by letting you alter the voltage at 128 different "load points" so you can trick the ecu into thinking the engine is getting more, or less, air than it actually is. thus the ecu will deliver a different amount of fuel. i currently have the dfa fitted to my 1.6 (altho this will be going when i get a megasquirt) and i've leaned out the mixtures at mid - high loads. i have definately noticed a good increase in power and responsiveness. will look at the boost controller when i go turbo, but anyway here are some pics of the install (you can also see my $14 air / fuel meter in these pics, which has been really helpful in tuning the dfa)
this last one shows the hand controller , which just happens to sit nicely in the spot for the ashtray
there are some good writeups of these units on the autospeed website.
anyway, i know i haven't been here long so you might be a bit suspect of me, but no, i do not work for or have any affiliation with jaycar. just thought i'd share
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11-01-2006, 06:38 PM
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it's not a wideband. it just connects in parrelel to the stock o2 sensor. it's just a little bargraph display for 0v to 1v o2 sensors, but it works good for what it is.
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
the dfa let's you alter the afm reading by + or - 2.5v at each load point. in theory there are 128 load points between 0v and 5v, bu i found in practice that the miata afm only uses about 60 of those points (at least in mine, the so called 0v-5v signal only has a range of like 0.8v to 2.45v) .
so for example if your car is idling at 1000rpm, the afm is outputting about 2.45v. now you can fit larger injectors, alter the afm reading with the dfa at this load point so that the ecu thinks the afm is outputting, say, 2.5v, and you should find that your car idles better with the bigger injectors.
at least, that is the theory!
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
the dfa let's you alter the afm reading by + or - 2.5v at each load point. in theory there are 128 load points between 0v and 5v, bu i found in practice that the miata afm only uses about 60 of those points (at least in mine, the so called 0v-5v signal only has a range of like 0.8v to 2.45v) .
so for example if your car is idling at 1000rpm, the afm is outputting about 2.45v. now you can fit larger injectors, alter the afm reading with the dfa at this load point so that the ecu thinks the afm is outputting, say, 2.5v, and you should find that your car idles better with the bigger injectors.
at least, that is the theory!
Last edited by fatty; 11-01-2006 at 07:01 PM.
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11-01-2006, 06:43 PM
#11
i see what you are saying so it scales up to 50% signal -+ kinda like the safc but it offers a much better resolution i understand until someone pusshes it we wont know. thanks for the info. you do realize how ever that the narrow band o2 sensor we use in our cars wont read the proper range for a boosted car wich will run 13 or less to one at that point you will read full rich on the scale but you will be in the danger zone for a mildly tuned setup. 12-1 -12.7-1 is a pretty safe starting point providing adequate colling of the intake charge
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11-01-2006, 10:22 PM
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I have a jaycar mixture display I have yet to assemble, planning to use it with my LC-1.
I can't wait for some reviews of their products, the 2D mapping always kind of scared me off.
McMaster Carr, and probably Grangers carry a $7.00 Valve that also makes a great MBC. I will post more when I get the chance.
I can't wait for some reviews of their products, the 2D mapping always kind of scared me off.
McMaster Carr, and probably Grangers carry a $7.00 Valve that also makes a great MBC. I will post more when I get the chance.
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11-02-2006, 03:39 PM
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Boost Czar
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it's easy and works. The hardest part about it is that the brass tee is short so the spring always has preload on it. an easy fix would be some sort of fitting that would extend out the screw adjustment shaft. That way the spring could be fully uncompressed all the way to fully compressed. (maybe using a 1/2" tee, and stepping it down to 1/2" to 1/4" fittings, then a 1/4" slip on fitting. That would give you a little extra room to work with)
I found a nice spring and cut a few coils off it. It took a few trips up and down the road to get it right, but it holds 10psi without a hic-up or spike. Problem is not I'm looking for more power and need to add a new spring with more coils on it.
I found a nice spring and cut a few coils off it. It took a few trips up and down the road to get it right, but it holds 10psi without a hic-up or spike. Problem is not I'm looking for more power and need to add a new spring with more coils on it.
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11-02-2006, 04:33 PM
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hahaha.
but your left hand drive cars look goofy to me !!!
funny how you guys like to do things a little differently to the rest of the world. i mean, you still talk in feet, inches and miles !
get with the program guys !:gay:
no offence intended, just a little australian humour for ya.
but your left hand drive cars look goofy to me !!!
funny how you guys like to do things a little differently to the rest of the world. i mean, you still talk in feet, inches and miles !
get with the program guys !:gay:
no offence intended, just a little australian humour for ya.
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