DIY Projects - Comments & Suggestions
 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...3841#post53841

Let's hear you comments and suggestions. Feel free to post here to add to the mix.

I use a couple of those same ones, I found using teflon tap around the allen screw threads made for better adjustment and they never seem to spike (at least on the gauge or datalogs...

yeah, probably should add teflon tape in there.

I was wondering earlier...what is that side mount plate for?

license plate like in his sig maybe?

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh...I'm dumb.

thought you guys might be interested in these electronics kits that are sold by "jaycar" (an electronics retailer) down here in australia. these things are cheap (you gotta build them yourself - easy enough if you know hot to solder), but they do a good job.
of most interest to you turbo guys would probably be the electronic boost controller, and the digital fuel adjuster.
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347


the dfa lets you fit bigger injectors and retune your air /fuel ratios for example, or just lets you get the most out of the stock set up. it is a piggyback fuel computer i guess, an interceptor that sits betweem the stock afm and ecu. it works by letting you alter the voltage at 128 different "load points" so you can trick the ecu into thinking the engine is getting more, or less, air than it actually is. thus the ecu will deliver a different amount of fuel. i currently have the dfa fitted to my 1.6 (altho this will be going when i get a megasquirt) and i've leaned out the mixtures at mid - high loads. i have definately noticed a good increase in power and responsiveness. will look at the boost controller when i go turbo, but anyway here are some pics of the install (you can also see my $14 air / fuel meter in these pics, which has been really helpful in tuning the dfa)
Attachment 217279
Attachment 217280
Attachment 217281
Attachment 217282
this last one shows the hand controller , which just happens to sit nicely in the spot for the ashtray
Attachment 217283

there are some good writeups of these units on the autospeed website.
anyway, i know i haven't been here long so you might be a bit suspect of me, but no, i do not work for or have any affiliation with jaycar. just thought i'd share :)

so what is the compensation ability of the jaycar unit. how big of an injector does it allow onn say our miatas. this is pretty darn cheap. also 14$ wideband tell me more.

it's not a wideband. it just connects in parrelel to the stock o2 sensor. it's just a little bargraph display for 0v to 1v o2 sensors, but it works good for what it is.
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=347
the dfa let's you alter the afm reading by + or - 2.5v at each load point. in theory there are 128 load points between 0v and 5v, bu i found in practice that the miata afm only uses about 60 of those points (at least in mine, the so called 0v-5v signal only has a range of like 0.8v to 2.45v) .
so for example if your car is idling at 1000rpm, the afm is outputting about 2.45v. now you can fit larger injectors, alter the afm reading with the dfa at this load point so that the ecu thinks the afm is outputting, say, 2.5v, and you should find that your car idles better with the bigger injectors.
at least, that is the theory!

sorry i guess i didn't answer your question exactly. i'm just not sure how big you can go with the injectors, sorry.

i see what you are saying so it scales up to 50% signal -+ kinda like the safc but it offers a much better resolution i understand until someone pusshes it we wont know. thanks for the info. you do realize how ever that the narrow band o2 sensor we use in our cars wont read the proper range for a boosted car wich will run 13 or less to one at that point you will read full rich on the scale but you will be in the danger zone for a mildly tuned setup. 12-1 -12.7-1 is a pretty safe starting point providing adequate colling of the intake charge

yes , exactly. like the safc but with much better resolution. good description.

so you're saying i need to get a wideband o2 sensor if i go turbo / megasquirt?
haven't heard that before. i just got a brand new stock o2 sensor too.

oh well, more money to spend :mad:

you dont need it but to take full advantage of the ms it is adviseable.

thanks mate, i'll keep it in mind.

I have a jaycar mixture display I have yet to assemble, planning to use it with my LC-1.

I can't wait for some reviews of their products, the 2D mapping always kind of scared me off.

McMaster Carr, and probably Grangers carry a $7.00 Valve that also makes a great MBC. I will post more when I get the chance.

Boy is that last pic weird to look at!! :bigtu:

The boost controller is interesting.

it's easy and works. The hardest part about it is that the brass tee is short so the spring always has preload on it. an easy fix would be some sort of fitting that would extend out the screw adjustment shaft. That way the spring could be fully uncompressed all the way to fully compressed. (maybe using a 1/2" tee, and stepping it down to 1/2" to 1/4" fittings, then a 1/4" slip on fitting. That would give you a little extra room to work with)

I found a nice spring and cut a few coils off it. It took a few trips up and down the road to get it right, but it holds 10psi without a hic-up or spike. Problem is not I'm looking for more power and need to add a new spring with more coils on it.

hahaha.
but your left hand drive cars look goofy to me !!! :)
funny how you guys like to do things a little differently to the rest of the world. i mean, you still talk in feet, inches and miles ! :bigtu:
get with the program guys !:gay:

no offence intended, just a little australian humour for ya.

:gay: , lord knows it's the truth. We're idiots, but at least we're stubborn!

i dunno about you but my . something in inches gun sounds way better than 9mm.

Thats why you say "man, I was just about to pull out my 9 and blast his ass" No mm necessary. Sounds fine to me..

And, looking good!



Also, A big mac's a big mac, but they call it "le big mac."

And I'll stop posting garbage in the diy suggestions now.

i like to say. "hey, watch it bub, before i pull my .3560inches out on you."

(alright, one more)


oooooo! that does sound better!

i wish my ebrake was on the other side like that. more room

yeah well mazda just moved it to the other side on the new NC. to appeal to the american market who had been complaining about it maybe ? ? ?

so now WE'RE stuck with the damn thing on the wrong side. grumble grumble.

you had a good run of it though 16 years of a comfortable car aint bad.

i guess you guys are responsible for all those damn cupholders everywhere in the new model too.

you guys and your supersize cokes, geez .

haha, ok i'll stop now.

did the license plate deal recently, looks great! ill post pics later on.

DIY Projects - Comments & Suggestions
 

DIY Exhaust :naughty:

clamp a turn-down tip off the dp?

Diy Mbc
 

There's a guy selling these on eBay for $12 delivered (NXS manual boost controller). It comes with a faq sheet, instructions etc. The guy must work at a brass fitting manufacturing facility because I can't see how he's making any dough. To the point- his has a tiny "bleed" hole drilled in the T - opposite the wastegate barb, on axis with it. I've got the thing installed and it works perfect. Just wondered what the purpose of the bleed hole is. :confused:

Maybe bleeding the pressure from wastegate line so the ball has always ambient pressure on spring side and therefore creates less spikes?

hrk

That's exactly right. Without the vent hole, it sticks. With too big a vent hole, it spikes. Ask me how I know.:td:

I am still having probs with my digicam.

www.mcmaster.com cat page 432 at the bottom, PN 48935K25.
1/4" Brass Adjustable Vacuum/Pressure Relief Valve.

This makes a great MBC. Just get an NPT to barb fitting for the threaded end, and use a Vac nipple (cut one leg off of a T) for the other, get one that fits right inside the hole at the top, sand down the outside of the nipple non barb end of the nipple to make a perfect fit. JB weld it into the hole.

Now you need a small bleed opening take a pin (like the kind your taylor uses) and hold the non sharp end in some vice grips, heat up the sharp end with a lighter or something and then plunge it into the vac nipple, next to the brass part, make sure you only go through one side of the tubing. Now hook it up. Make sure you don't cover the pin hole with your hose.

Helpfull link, Muffler flow data.

http://www.broaderperformance.com/mu...flow_tests.htm

Get some Silicone Tape.

http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/...CC5081+M37+ENG

This stuff is great for wiring but has tons of other uses too, I have used it when an IC pipe (not on the miata) was a little too small for any coupling I could find. Just wrapped some around the pipe to fill in the space, no worrys about high temps.

I have a side mount plate like braineack's and wrapped some around the outside plate bolt to make sure it can't scratch the bumper. Done properly it will never come off.

Use it as heat insulation for hoses and cables, use it to hold other insulation on.

The list can go on forever.