DIY turbo advice
i have a DD 1990 1.6 with 98000 miles. i m looking to run a turbo set up but only about 5-8 psi i have a stage 1 fm clutch and my friend has a rebuilt gt25 and intercooler cores also looking into a diypnp. do you suggest using the turbo and what mani and dp do you suggest? where can i find charge pipe and such for the intercooler also? thank you for the help
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here we go
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1) introduce yourself in the de-noob thread.
2) what are your power goals? 3) atleast u r using MS lol. |
im looking to push about 150
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Look at the list of vendors for your stuff or look in the for sale section, you should be able to find a mani and down pipe that will work with that turbo.
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This is discussed ad naseam. 150whp is pretty weak, btw. You can do 250whp for the same money. |
im just looking for a "safe" set up i plan rebuilding for a stronger motor when i have the money for it. what do you think a safe goal should be?
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^ 250whp
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sorry to be a noob but what kind of psi would i run and what kind of stuff would i need that differs from 150hp
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http://static.zoovy.com/img/briggs0419/-/engine_500
http://www.tornadoair.com/images/InstallGuide.gif This should give you the power you are looking for... |
Originally Posted by FRT_Fun
(Post 650833)
http://static.zoovy.com/img/briggs0419/-/engine_500
http://www.tornadoair.com/images/InstallGuide.gif This should give you the power you are looking for... |
Originally Posted by ap0calypse
(Post 650607)
i have a DD 1990 1.6 with 98000 miles. i m looking to run a turbo set up but only about 5-8 psi i have a stage 1 fm clutch and my friend has a rebuilt gt25 and intercooler cores also looking into a diypnp. do you suggest using the turbo and what mani and dp do you suggest? where can i find charge pipe and such for the intercooler also? thank you for the help
Any manifold that can bolt to your motor and to a T2 turbo should fit. The name brands such as Flying Miata and Bell Engineering will be easier from the stand point of fit, durability and customer support. There is also one other vendor on this forum that seems to do great work - Artech As hustler said - the set up is capable of more power than 150hp but of course reliability suffers to a point as you increase power and you will eventually (soon) need a larger fuel pump, injectors, clutch, rear end, radiator........ You also need to have good anti denotation measures almost from the start. At the boost that you mention some static retard, A BIPES or other timing retard device and/or fuel enrichment gadget may keep your motor in one piece but above that all bets are off. The fact that you want to start off with an intercooler is a good start toward preventing detonation. Read this and post or PM me if you have other questions https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/diy-faq-all-your-answers-one-big-post-4288/ Good luck! |
Safe HP is stock. Don't turbo your car! YOU'LL SCREW UP EVERYTHING!
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cant pm yet so i was looking into a DIYPNP and already have a stage 1 clutch and flywheel ive read that the ms unit can hold the psi im targeting but a new fuel pump will be along the line. i was also looking into a 1.8 4.3 diff and the ms also come with a retard and detonation program. for dp and mani since i'm trying to stay "cheap" should i buy used or is the couple hundred not worth the risk in reliability? thanks for the help
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Originally Posted by FRT_Fun
(Post 650833)
http://static.zoovy.com/img/briggs0419/-/engine_500
http://www.tornadoair.com/images/InstallGuide.gif This should give you the power you are looking for... |
Originally Posted by ap0calypse
(Post 651158)
cant pm yet so i was looking into a DIYPNP and already have a stage 1 clutch and flywheel ive read that the ms unit can hold the psi im targeting but a new fuel pump will be along the line. i was also looking into a 1.8 4.3 diff and the ms also come with a retard and detonation program. for dp and mani since i'm trying to stay "cheap" should i buy used or is the couple hundred not worth the risk in reliability? thanks for the help
You need the extra fuel and retard during boost to keep the motor alive. So the fuel pump and larger injectors go first. :sad2: At low boost you can get around the MS with other band aid devices but if you are considering a clutch and larger (stronger ) diff, the MS makes great sense. Note that the MS does not come with a retard & detonation program it just allows to tune the fuel table and spark map to keep the engine out of knock. The band aid devices such as rising rate fuel pressure regulator likely leave some power on the table when used so again the MS or other stand alone ECU is a good route to take. |
so im thinking of the begi-s should i use the fmu and use bipes then work my way up down the line?
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Originally Posted by ap0calypse
(Post 651759)
so im thinking of the begi-s should i use the fmu and use bipes then work my way up down the line?
Again, the object of the game regardless of whether you use a standalone ECU such as the MS or other is to tune to prevent detonation and loosing the engine first time out. :vash: The stand alone ECU IMO offers more versatility and in a way maximum power but requires that you become more knowledgeable or hire a tuner. |
Safe power according to Jared is 280whp :bigtu:
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Safe for some people is stock... safe is a relative term...
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