Do-overs?
 

Saw this mentioned in another thread.

Armed with what you know now, what would you have done differently with your setup from day one?

Example:
I wouldn't have bothered with my 2.5" exhaust and would gotten 3" from the beginning.
I wouldn't have bothered with a bipes/fpr setup and would have gone straight for megasquirt.

I think this might be a useful thread for the noobs to steer them away from the temptation to make quick cheap decisions instead of the right ones.

shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit, i dunno when the list would end...

-would do MS stock and then boost once sorted
-would go with the herd and stay away from Tial BOV

lots of things really, but no regrets just knowledge for next time!

I would have asked a certain injector cleaning outfit to make extra sure none of my injectors were leaky.

:)

I wish I had not ignored everything that had to do with turbo's while I was researching and building a SC setup. Cause I never finished the SC setup and then had to "start over" and learn everything I could about turbos. In short, don't distract yourself with a SC for any reason. Turbo FTW.

And if you have moddest power goals, get high ohm injectors and MS1 to control them. I got MS2 and low ohm injectors and come to find out MS2 doesn't like to fire them. It works, but not well. Should have got high ohm injectors since they're only 550s.

Would have built a 1.8L when I first blew my motor.

Would have bought a +94 when I crashed last year.

you mean two SCers ;)

:cool: It would have been potent for a SC setup. It might find itself on a 94' one day.

If I hadn't wasted money and time on all kinds of parts that I ended up taking off, I wouldn't know as much as I know. Experience translates to knowledge. As far as a recommendation for somelike like a Newb, I'd say...only buy quality parts. Stay away from e-bay, and only buy from FM or BEGI. If someone was installing a turbo, I'd say, get a BEGI "S" series kit with a GT2560 for a 90-97 and run MS. For a '99 on up I'd go the Hydra route and get the FMII complete kit. I'd also say, stay away from anything like a voo-doo box or a Zoom3, install a FMU that you can run more than 8psi on, cause you'll want to run it eventually. Do one thing at a time, cause it makes things a lot easier to troubleshoot.

stay away from a voodoo box eh? I just bought one from you:)
haha, im just messin with ya man, I know exactly what I bought. its strictly till I get the car running and sorted....then it comes off for something worthy

i just would have bought a cleaner car to start with and 94-95

I wouldn't have searched high and low for the best possible buy on used parts that sometimes turned out to be junk. I would have bought exactly what I wanted new or near new from reliable sellers. I wasted a lot of time and money settling for what I could get used, at the time I convinced myself I needed it. I wouldn't be happy and I'd end up buying and installing yet another used part that again wasn't exactly what I wanted.

Lot's of stuff (particularly suspension parts) it didn't pay to be cheap.

S4 or 5, yeah.

I'm gonna put a BIG +1 to this comment. I'm lucky that, for the most part, I didn't get screwed on used parts. But I did a couple times. Thankfully they weren't expensive parts. But more and more frequently I read where somebody bought a used turbo and it wasn't what the seller said it was, or it has shaft play, or it's supposedly "rebuilt" but then it fails, etc.

My best theory is if it moves, buy it new. Or course there are exceptions. I bought a new (not rebuilt) turbo. But I bought it second hand to save some money. Really, the only thing used I bought was a manifold (took my chances but it looks good) and a clutch. Wish I had bought a new clutch, but I got a deal on it so I figured if it was bad I wouldn't be out too much. But now I need a TOB and pilot bearing, and an alignment tool. So add in the cost of those parts, and I get closer and closer to the cost of a new one that would have included these essential parts.

oh yeah, i wouldn't of let this happen:




or this:

http://boostedmiata.com/blown_engine/pistons.jpg



or this:

http://boostedmiata.com/blown_engine..._piston001.JPG

Actually, I like the badaids for low boost. I don't have to worry about cold starts, or any of that crap.

And I also wish I would of left the 2 1/2 inch exhaust. For a race car,,,, 3" all the way. But for a DD I would prefer something that I can hear the radio in.

But I did go ms from the start for my higher boost car. I know this sounds bad. But I would of hooked up the turbo and bandaids I had instead of waiting months of fun saving for mspnp. I thought it would take me a month. Everything kept coming up.


It isn't that hard to tune MS, You just have to find a abandoned road or parking lot, and slowly work your way into it. AND NOT FLOOR IT TO THE BOOST YOU WANT! FIRST TIME OUT. You work your way there.

Buy the name brand stuff. If you are planning on spending $1300 on a diy, I would buy begi S kit.

I'd buy a fucking kit with a working turbo.

BUt...whatever, I learned a lot.

I would have sold the miata & purchased a S2000 & turbocharge or supercharge it.

I also would have done a 3" to begin with instead of a 2.5" exhaust. Still sportin the 2.5" right now.

Other than that, I'm extremely pleased with my setup.

Ooh, other than I should have gotten an ACT instead of cheaping out and getting the Ebay F1 clutch.

I would have built up on a nicer car, would have spent more time looking for the right car to buy at first. would not have put $800 carillo rods in a motor that is going with a car I am about to sell for around $1000.

V8 Swap