Nitrous
#2
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There was a member on here a long time ago (I think he got banned so I won't mention his name), but he used to spray is stock 99 I think? I think he ran megasquirt with like a 100 shot. If I remember correctly he used to run a low 14 second 1/4.
His name ends in MX5s and it'll say "I'm miserable" under his name. Search it up!
His name ends in MX5s and it'll say "I'm miserable" under his name. Search it up!
#5
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I ran a 100 shot DP on my 99, then later went turbo instead.
My thoughts:
1) Direct Port is a must.
2) Dry nitrous with fuel compensation from the ECU is way better than a "wet" kit.
3) Buying good parts has a big impact on how well it works, everything from the feed line, to the solenoids, to the nozzles.
4) Dont be a retard and use massive a feed line. Small nylon line will flow plenty of nitrous and wont take long to prime. You DO NOT need a purge.
5) Check out noswizard.com, there you will find the best nitrous forum on the planet, along with the best nitrous kits on the planet. Talk to Trevor and it will all be clear.
My thoughts:
1) Direct Port is a must.
2) Dry nitrous with fuel compensation from the ECU is way better than a "wet" kit.
3) Buying good parts has a big impact on how well it works, everything from the feed line, to the solenoids, to the nozzles.
4) Dont be a retard and use massive a feed line. Small nylon line will flow plenty of nitrous and wont take long to prime. You DO NOT need a purge.
5) Check out noswizard.com, there you will find the best nitrous forum on the planet, along with the best nitrous kits on the planet. Talk to Trevor and it will all be clear.
#6
I ran a 100 shot DP on my 99, then later went turbo instead.
My thoughts:
1) Direct Port is a must.
2) Dry nitrous with fuel compensation from the ECU is way better than a "wet" kit.
3) Buying good parts has a big impact on how well it works, everything from the feed line, to the solenoids, to the nozzles.
4) Dont be a retard and use massive a feed line. Small nylon line will flow plenty of nitrous and wont take long to prime. You DO NOT need a purge.
5) Check out noswizard.com, there you will find the best nitrous forum on the planet, along with the best nitrous kits on the planet. Talk to Trevor and it will all be clear.
My thoughts:
1) Direct Port is a must.
2) Dry nitrous with fuel compensation from the ECU is way better than a "wet" kit.
3) Buying good parts has a big impact on how well it works, everything from the feed line, to the solenoids, to the nozzles.
4) Dont be a retard and use massive a feed line. Small nylon line will flow plenty of nitrous and wont take long to prime. You DO NOT need a purge.
5) Check out noswizard.com, there you will find the best nitrous forum on the planet, along with the best nitrous kits on the planet. Talk to Trevor and it will all be clear.
I have run it on many different cars with many different configurations (dry, plate, foggers)
In the Miata I ran a 13.16@ 101mph on a stock motor with stock ECU, clutch, light flywheel, exhaust, and slicks. My nitrous system was an NOS dry kit with an additional fuel pump that ran only when the system was armed.
I currently have a Wilson Manifold fogger kit that I will be installing soon after my next motor is built and tuned. I will convert it over to a poly line for ease of installation and for easy jet changes. The foggers will be under the intake.
#8
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Yes you do.
I have run it on many different cars with many different configurations (dry, plate, foggers)
In the Miata I ran a 13.16@ 101mph on a stock motor with stock ECU, clutch, light flywheel, exhaust, and slicks. My nitrous system was an NOS dry kit with an additional fuel pump that ran only when the system was armed.
I currently have a Wilson Manifold fogger kit that I will be installing soon after my next motor is built and tuned. I will convert it over to a poly line for ease of installation and for easy jet changes. The foggers will be under the intake.
I have run it on many different cars with many different configurations (dry, plate, foggers)
In the Miata I ran a 13.16@ 101mph on a stock motor with stock ECU, clutch, light flywheel, exhaust, and slicks. My nitrous system was an NOS dry kit with an additional fuel pump that ran only when the system was armed.
I currently have a Wilson Manifold fogger kit that I will be installing soon after my next motor is built and tuned. I will convert it over to a poly line for ease of installation and for easy jet changes. The foggers will be under the intake.
Thats because your feed line is too big.
You dont need a purge with a properly sized feed line. -4AN will support several hundred hp worth of nitrous. A 4mm nylon line will suport a 100 shot and its outer diameter is smaller than a -4AN inner diameter.
On my setup, even with having just connected the bottle, there was only a momentary blip before nitrous was there in the manifold. Once it was primed after that first hit it was instantaneous, always.
With my -4 it would take ******* forever to prime without a purge.
#9
Thats because your feed line is too big.
You dont need a purge with a properly sized feed line. -4AN will support several hundred hp worth of nitrous. A 4mm nylon line will suport a 100 shot and its outer diameter is smaller than a -4AN inner diameter.
On my setup, even with having just connected the bottle, there was only a momentary blip before nitrous was there in the manifold. Once it was primed after that first hit it was instantaneous, always.
With my -4 it would take ******* forever to prime without a purge.
You dont need a purge with a properly sized feed line. -4AN will support several hundred hp worth of nitrous. A 4mm nylon line will suport a 100 shot and its outer diameter is smaller than a -4AN inner diameter.
On my setup, even with having just connected the bottle, there was only a momentary blip before nitrous was there in the manifold. Once it was primed after that first hit it was instantaneous, always.
With my -4 it would take ******* forever to prime without a purge.
Edit: Actually, I ran a smaller line than a 4AN. Nitrous line was always smaller than the typical AN sizes.
Last edited by miata2fast; 11-14-2012 at 02:33 PM.
#10
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Sorry, I should've been more clear. This is a built 1.6, ported and gasket matched head/manifold that is turbo'd. Usual bottom end, wiseco pistons, main/head studs blah blah blah. ECU is a DIYPNP, I would like to run e85, but I don't know how well e85 and nitrous mix. I basically just want more power without going to a real bug turbo, if that makes sense. The ability to drive the car how it is but with the potential for some big power gains up top if I spray. My wants might be a dumb idea though, trying to learn more about it
#14
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Troy, I have the choice of a Garrett T3 .60/.63 or an eBay special T3/T4 .50/.63. The motor is still being built, so the boost levels are undecided yet, but I am shooting for ALLOFIT. lol I think the Garrett is too small.
#17
If you go big with turbo and boost, you are stuck with running the nitrous only at lower rpms and boost range. Even the high budget big boys have the nitrous shut down once the boost reaches a certain level. In this case nitrous is used for spooling sooner and better launches at the drag strip. Nitrous cars still dominate the race to the first 60'.
If turbo and boost levels are tame enough, you can use nitrous all the way to redline. You can only shove so much oxygen and fuel in the combustion chamber without all hell breaking loose.
You may even consider a reverse multi stage nitrous set up. Two small stages of nitrous on the initial launch, with one shutting down at full boost.
If turbo and boost levels are tame enough, you can use nitrous all the way to redline. You can only shove so much oxygen and fuel in the combustion chamber without all hell breaking loose.
You may even consider a reverse multi stage nitrous set up. Two small stages of nitrous on the initial launch, with one shutting down at full boost.
#20
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Sell both turbos and buy one of these bad boys.