does this sound reasonable for a build up?
 

$300 for a used t-3 and a rebuild
$250 for a cast 1.8 ebay manifold
$400 for emanage with the boomslang harness and injector harness from ebay
$40 GM 2BAR map
$75 o2 clamp
$50 random junkyard injectors
$250 copper head gasket and 0-ringed head
$200 jimb intercooler piping
$150 exhaust piping and my dirty welding
$75 muffler
$50 starion intercooler
$50 used diverter valve from a vw
$20 boost controller
$100 fuel pump
$40 oil lines
$75 used msd boost retard box
$150 professional tune
$300 clutch


$2800 or so after nuts and bolts of course. That should get me to 200whp right?

dont know about whp, but with good tune you'll be well over 200chp.

just make sure the fuel pump and injectors accommodate your power goals.

the copper head gasket is overkill. the stock gasket is actually quite good. use ARP head studs over the mediochre oem head bolts. the $100 or so you can save there will buy you a drop-in walbro fuel pump.

Sounds good to me. 86 the head gasket. Go with a 60 or super 60 trim T3. Consider the Bipes instead of the MSD box. Think about a LC-1 WBo2 and Olderguy's autotune. Get the Walbro 190 HP FP and go with a 8:1 ratio FMU. You won't need a "professional tune" but that could go for an hour of dyno time. With a wideband and the autotune you shouldn't be hard to tune yourself. The Supra greentops are a good choice as the EMB only supports up to about 330cc. Check ebay often, people sell JimB's kits a lot, as Jim can take months to send out your order. But you should easily be able to see 200rwhp.

I agree with the ARP studs and stock head gasket assessments. I'm not even boosted yet and my head gasket leask above 4K rpm when the cylinder pressure starts to stretch the craptastic stock head bolts (they have been re-used several time however). The studs also make lining up the head and gasket SO much easier.

Can you really get a starion for $50 on eBay? Damn, I paid $130 for mine back in the day. cool.

Otherwise, sounds ok to me. I have a set of old JimB pipes (Saab throttlebody pipe) laying around somewhere I'd be willing to get rid of for a lot less than $200. I'll try to find it tonight.

I also have an RM dp for a GT28R as well as hardlines for the coolant ports if you decide to go fancy on the turbo.

If you use a gasket for an inexpensive way to have lower comp.ratio, you can hit 1,1-1,2 bar witout problems with stock pistons.This will hapen with 8,4/1-8,7/1.
But u have to fine tuning the car... the detonation, and high EGT temps can damage everything.

Where do you plumb in the coolant lines for the turbo? I think thats kinda overkill, I don't really want to pay that much for a turbo. I'd rather just pay for a pro to tune the thing to 12.4, then not worry about anything. A local shop (alamo autosports) is a tuning god, so I might as well just let them do it.

how big of a pump do I need for say max manifold pressure on a stock compression motor? I do NOT want to run a shitty fmu. I've had so many problems with them, and a fuel pump is the same price as an fmu. I have an s4 fuel pump, but I don't know that I can make it work.

I thought 250cc will get me to 9psi on a 1.8, even with the high compression. I plan on 7psi in the summer, maybe 9 when its not so brutally hot in dallas.

Does anyone ever run into problems with too much oil pressure at cold start? I had that problem on my last car, and kept blowing seals on the turbo before I realized I needed a restrictor.

190 HP FP will work, read my first post. Run the BEGI FMU,full adjustable base psi and rising rate, and tune that accordingly.

If you're going to run the EMB might as well run the larger injectors to keep the duty cycle lower.

I have to run a restrictor with my T3, I see +60psi of oil pressure when I'm WOT.

neither fm nor begi run restrictors on their turbos (gt28/gt25).

Some of the confusion comes from the fact that ball-bearing turbos and sleeve-bearing turbos require different amounts of oil, and some of each type of turbo may actually have a built-in "restrictor" in that their oil feed port is somewhat smaller than the next guy.

Suffice it to say, most Mitsubishi turbos from the 1980s until at least the mid 90s can have 1/4" (-4AN) oil feed lines with no restrictors. Some T3 Garretts can take the same, while some others cannot. Ditto for the bal-bearing, T2 Garretts. It's a case-by-case kinda thing :)

* $46 will buy you a new "porsche-vw-audi" diverter from rockauto
* $150 for tubing should be enough to build your exhaust and IC pipes- I spent $160 from summit for 3" and 2-1/2" tubing and have a bunch left over including a 2-1/2" 180 (tho you'll need to add hoses/clamps)
* $75 muffler - I assume your buying "bling"
* Injectors- unless you're pulling them from a known running car, I'd spend the dough to have them cleaned/tested
* flywheel resurface included w/clutch?

I did it where FM does it, running the turbo coolant in line with the thermostat-to-mixing manifold/water pump hose.

You'll need the EM, but not the injector harness, you'll need an ignition harness, or a 1998 626 OEM radio connector;) (the car side)
also you'll need steelrats cable, OG's O2 clamp for sure.

With the EM you'll not need the MSD box.

250 for a cast t3 manifold?

And add 100 or so for shipping ;)

the muffler won't be bling. Thanks for all the help.

I was looking for some info on the XeDe and stumbled on this:
Heck of a deal http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages...tmanifold.html

Not much on the XeDe though...

get a begi mani/dp combo. it will be the last one you need and the price is very fair right now. get it with t3 flange if you want.

yeah, that does look pretty cheap. I'm stuffing the transmission back in my daily soon, so I will hopefully get this project up and running soon. Whats up with the "25 unit" thing from begi?

That's probably the amount of manifolds he's going to have made in the first real run from the casting foundry. It's a pretty common technique for vendors to give a discount to the first batch of an item they sell.