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Old 01-31-2009, 04:24 AM   #1
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Default The downpipe build begins </\>

Well today a few goodies came in and I decided to start up the downpipe build

I still havent decided whether to do seperated gasses or bellmouth. I know the pro's and con's of both just trying to figure out which I'd prefer.




Goodbye POS anchor:


Hello turbo







We tack welded everything together, had to taper a little bit because the flange is tiny as hell and there was no way to weld on the piping the way it was.
Will be welding everything up on monday.

QUICK QUESTIONS:

1) wtf does everyone do with the heater line thats in the last picture touching the downpipe? some advise as to how to get it away from the downpipe would be great
2) where does everyone weld the narrowband o2 bung and the wideband o2 bung. I assume everyone runs both.

More pictures as I get them
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:37 AM   #2
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Cut the upper ends a bit shorter, and zip tie them back away from the dp?

I thought standalones like the MS could use a wideband for the ecu narrowband signal? That could be completely wrong though. Would have to use something like an LC-1 though.

Looks good so far, though its barely started.
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:42 AM   #3
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its not just this bend in the pictures that we got on there. we did the bottom bend and piping too. Just forgot to take pictures. I'll have em up monday
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:45 AM   #4
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Oh. Figured with "The downpipe build begins" you would only be starting.

How skilled are you (or who ever was doing it) at welding? Its almost tempting to undertake a custom dp, which would allow me to excape the grasp of the BEGi s/g downpipe that has been calling me. Doing the BEGi setup limits me to pretty much the gt25/28 series turbos. Custom would open choices up a bit (cheaper choices). Sorry to highjack so early in the thread. I can weld, but am not sure if I would run into any cracking problems with my limited welding skills.

BTW, what size piping? 2.5?
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:49 AM   #5
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I am pretty much a welding noob. I am doing this with the help/supervision of my father who is a welding GOD!! lol....If he did this as a professional job it would be 1000 times better and what not, but then it wouldnt be "my diy project"......I'm ok I'd say, but definitely not anything to write home about, probably way below average.
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:54 AM   #6
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gonna be startin my downpipe soon as well doin 2 1/2 stainless with flex pipe then swages to 3" after the flex pipe. Then 3 inch all the way out the tailpipe =) got a hi flow cat and a turbo muffler
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Old 01-31-2009, 05:13 AM   #7
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Narrowband goes in the stock location, so like halfway between the turbo and the ground. Wideband goes at the end of the DP, just before the cat, facing nearly straight down (centered between floorboards and tranny). I don't run a narrowband.
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Old 01-31-2009, 08:30 PM   #8
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Great. now how about the other question? anyone?
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Old 01-31-2009, 08:42 PM   #9
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Here's what I did. I have a 3" downpipe. I moved that brake porportioning valve to the drivers side a long time ago. The heater core pipes, I "massaged/bent" a little bit, but not much. That heater return pipe that goes to the water pump was pointing at my DP though. I did a combination of things to get it to point a lot more "up" and back I think too. I used a 2x2 jammed down below the subframe and used that to push that pipe. It twisted it to point up more. Finished bending it up by sticking a steel rod in that tube and bending it more. I bought 3' of -12AN summitracing brand stainless braided line for my oil drain, and had some left over, so I used it to make the lines. ~2K miles on it and so far, it works fine.

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Old 01-31-2009, 08:46 PM   #10
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so basically bend/massage it as much out of the way as possible. damn, I thought of maybe repositioning it altogether. I'll have to bend it quite a way as you can see: its touching the downpipe and that is a huge no no. thanx for the help man.
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Old 01-31-2009, 08:49 PM   #11
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My turbo is obviously lower than yours. Also, I had to "redo" that bend where it comes right off the turbo. If I did it your way, my D/P would touch that hose too. I had to tack a 3" mandrel bend to a pipe, heat it, and bend that 3" bend to reduce the center line radius of it from 5" to 3. Then it turned sharp enough to clear that hose, clear the shelf area, etc.
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Old 01-31-2009, 08:55 PM   #12
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I'm thinking maybe trying to bend the line to face the firewall, then getting a longer hose so that it goes on the line behind the dipstick. or somewhere in the back of the engine. the only reason I had to make my dp stick out so far and not go straight down is because of the stupid *** skyline flange. its a 6 bolt, and RIGHT UNDER the bend is one of the bolts. if I didnt make it stick out so far back I'd never be able to tighten that bolt. stupid 6 bolt hotside
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Old 01-31-2009, 09:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I'm thinking maybe trying to bend the line to face the firewall, then getting a longer hose so that it goes on the line behind the dipstick. or somewhere in the back of the engine. the only reason I had to make my dp stick out so far and not go straight down is because of the stupid *** skyline flange. its a 6 bolt, and RIGHT UNDER the bend is one of the bolts. if I didnt make it stick out so far back I'd never be able to tighten that bolt. stupid 6 bolt hotside
6 bolt hotside here too. Been there, done that:


3/4" piece of pipe welded to flange (these welds don't look bad IMO, got very good pen.)
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Then I welded my super tight radius 3" bend on there. Believe me, it was a bitch getting it all to work. But I can remove all the bolts with ease now.
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Old 01-31-2009, 09:06 PM   #14
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/\ That looks GREAT. I only hope mine comes out the same
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Old 02-06-2009, 03:55 AM   #15
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Ok got a little more work done on the downpipe. It is NOWHERE NEAR finished so dont be too judgemental lol.






As you can see, I went with bellmouth. on subaru's bellmouth always provided much better flow/topend than the seperated gasses so I want to stick with what I know has worked for me in the past.

The welding is done, now I have a lot of grinding and polishing ahead of me. This thing will look pretty yet

*edit: we angled it and made it so it would fit onto my stock midpipe just in case I decide or need to run the stock exhaust with it.
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:16 AM   #16
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Wish i had the skills to do that!

Good luck!
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:55 AM   #17
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Damn Jew, you cant afford a normal digital camera.
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:24 PM   #18
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LOL

all further progress can be found on this page:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t31240/#post368866
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Old 03-26-2009, 11:18 PM   #19
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No closer pics of those welds? Come on we have all started somewhere. I built my first project (2001 ranger laying frame) with a linclon sp100, I have since built intercooler piping(steel), exhaust, downpipes, seat rails, and welded in a s&w cage. My next plan is to trying build a custom set of headers(ls1).

Also where are the pics of the new sweet bumper at? I wish I had that stuff back now that I have a 99, you wanna home me up with your fog light bumper.
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Old 03-26-2009, 11:28 PM   #20
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No better pictures because they were taken with a phone. The bumper is great, the headlights were the biggest mistake I have made in purchasing. The one that was damaged was completely jacked up on the inside. had to plastic weld almost the whole inside, as well as a lot of the outside. Also the tint was the strongest/hardest thing in the world and I had to scrape it off. Now I have to sand them and buff them. Oh well
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