drop in hot wire
 

i own a 95 turbo miata and made a dual filter intake to get the amount of air i needed while still using the stock MAF. i works good the only problem is that it takes way to long to tune. now toyota and suburu and prob. some other newer cars use a drop in hot wire. this would allow me to run a 3in single intake with hot wire.. does anyone know anything about this? or try it? !thanks alot!

you have plenty of airflow volume with the stock MAF. Regardless of how many openings you put past the MAF, the same amount of air will pass through. It causes 0 restrictions on your intake. A 3" intake tube will not give you any benefit.

this intake was made to help keep my correction % closer to 0.(by tricking the ecu) with out it the correction wont even fit on a tunable map.? how much power can a guy get out of a stock maf? thanks for responding so quickly

I think we need to know why you're trying to "trick" the ECU. Most of us are either running piggyback ECUs (such as the EMU) or a full replacement such as the Megasquirt, and there's no trickery in such systems; just simple, precise adjustment.

The shift key to capitalize the first letter of your new thought is located below the enter key, adjacent to the question mark. Rumor has it there's another one somewhere but I dunno....

Spell out exactly what your setup is, especially your engine management.

i suppose i made the intake at first. at this time i had a s-afc i tried(just because it was laying around) i was running that with a msd dis-2. that wasnt good enough so i put a aem fic piggyback comp. in. and im running 550cc injectors. maybe i should try it with the normal intake again now that i have that piggyback in there..? what do you think??

Since you didn't answer my question directly, at least tell me if these assumptions are correct:

1- You are running 550cc injectors.

2- You are running the stock ECU.

3- You first tried to trick it by modifying the airflow signal with a S-AFC, then installed an AEM F/IC. (Did you remove the S/AFC?)

4- You think you'll get better results with a larger MAF sensor, presumably because it will skew the airflow-voltage curve downwards.

(The fail is strong with this one...)

Assuming the F/IC works the same as the EMU (by trimming injector pulsewidth directly) then you should not be messing with MAF sensor at all. Or, you could stop throwing money away, eliminate the MAF sensor altogether, and install a Megasquirt.

What turbo are you running?

yes i am running 550s

yes i am running stock ecu

yes i DID trick the ecu by moddin the mass air (only to be able to use the s-afc with 550s)

yes i remove the s-afc and installed a aem fic

and no this did NOT fail... the only reason i want to remove the twin filter is to cut down on dyno time!

and no im not wasting money, im just getting use out of parts i have laying around.

and yes the mass air can be restrictive the only way it would have 0 restriction is if the air passing though it was pressurized.

;)

Where there is boost, there is never any restriction! Never!!:ugh2:

there is no boost before the turbo!

Boost IS a measure of restriction.

Do you even read any of the responses to your posts? I don't think that anybody cares where there is or isn't boost. Koto was commenting that you were incorrect with your comment regaring no restriction with boost.

So please type like you passed 3rd grade.

that would be correct if the mass air was mounted after the turbo

Please stop debating this. We all understand how a turbo works and where the MAF is placed on a Miata.

This is the comment that is incorrect. There will always be a restriction when you place an obstruction in a flow.

Wise up kid, or you WILL be banned. Use grammar. Use common sense. Organize your thoughts, then write us a neat, grammatically correct paragraph describing your current EMS. Then people will be able to help you. Post choppy fragments that make no sense and people will harass you and post stupid off topic shit that doesn't help you. You have to help yourself. Nobody has to spend 3 minutes trying to decipher what you're attempting to tell us.

[QUOTE=jasonrobo02;248336]There will always be a restriction when you place an obstruction in a flow.


thank you

[QUOTE=wicked2t;248340]Dude... he is disagreeing with your statement about zero restriction under boost.

He is saying that regardless of pressure a restriction is a restriction. Which is right btw. Now go pressurize your self to equalize the sucking.

Oh my bad, you're right. Intercoolers, throttle bodies, intake valves, etc. all pose zero restriction under boost, because the air is pressurized. All apologies.

:drama:






Ok, getting back on topic. Insofar as I am aware, there are no oversized ftermarket MAF sensors for the Miata. It's possible that there may be one out there from another car which will fit, but I've never heard of anyone trying it.

The reason for this is likely that it is much easier and more efficient to simply remove the MAF sensor altogether and use an ECU that supports MAP operation and direct injector control. In the piggyback arena, the eManage Ultimate is a well-known commodity for the Miata. Moving up a notch in performance (and down a notch in cost) is the Megasquirt.

I'm going to try a couple of things before I go out and buy a different ECU. This is good advise though, and probably what I'll do if i can't get it going the way I want it with the stuff i already have. The AEM FIC is still pretty new on the market. Its a great system, the only down fall is that it requires your factory MAF out of boost. There is talk that AEM is going to change that.? Thanks Joe

the real downfall is that it doesn't run a map setup and do away with the need of a MAF.

what are your AFRs at idle and boost?

Yes, but the point that Braineak made in his first post is that the restriction of the stock MAF is insignificant. If you've got anything other than a standard K&N cone filter on the end of your intake, you're simply :jerkit: . It will flow plenty of air in vaccum and will do a damn good job in boost. There are guys running 15+psi on the stock MAF.

I know very little about the SAFC or FIC, but it has the same limitations as all piggybacks... it's limited by the numbers coming out of the stock ECU.

Wicked, since you're a noob, please go to the NOOB forum and start a thread that introduces yourself and your setup/goals. You can also do us all a HUGE favor by posting a short synopsis of your entire setup in your signature so we don't have to guess at what you're running to help you. You should also fill in your LOCATION on your profile page.

Actually, it reads the MAF at all times- in and out of boost. It just applies a different multiplier when above atmo.

At any rate, I'm pretty sure that Braineack is on the money here. Compared to the old mechanical VAF sensor, the hotwire MAF just doesn't look all that restrictive to me. It's got a pretty big open area, and where obstructions do exist they appear well-streamlined.

If you want to do some interesting research on the dyno, build yourself a simple liquid-column manometer by taking a length of clear plastic tubing, forming it into a U-shape, and putting some colored liquid into the loop at the bottom. Attach one end to the intake just before the MAF, and the other just after the MAF. Under load, the pressure differential across the MAF will be visible in inches of rise, and from that you can calculate the pressure drop. (This is literally where the terms inches of H2O and inches of Hg as measurements of relative pressure come from.) I'm betting the drop across the MAF is pretty minimal.

Do the same thing with one end hooked up between filter and MAF, and the other exposed to atmo, and do an A-B comparison of two filters vs. one. Assuming the one is reasonably sized, clean, and in good condition, the difference should be close to zero.