Ebay/diy turbo blues
 

No this is NOT a "my turbo has blown up and sucked pieces inside my motor" thread. This is just me having some slight...issues with my diy project. I have the fm oldskool manifold and now the begi-s downpipe. Now to the issues:

1) The oil drain flange that I bought off ebay(listed for Garrett t25's and t28's) fit my sr20 t25 but not this egay T28. The flange was the same size but the bolt holes were a couple mm's off(inside wise). So honestly, I just drilled the hole out bigger and put a bunch of rtv on the seal. Should this work? I would think so since it is still flush on the surface....hmm...

2) My begi-s downpipe's flange doesn't fit. It mates up to the turbo perfectly but the holes are just slightly off. I even tried the flange on my sr20 t25 and it doesn't even fit that either. What the hell is that about? The turbo I bought has a flange that comes with it but it's made out of a thicker(exhaust housing type) material. Should this still be weldable? I'm just thinking about cutting it off at the flange and having it put on the new one. If that flange isn't weldable then I'm clueless about where to get another one(what turbo this is copying).:bang:

3) Last is regarding the garrett inlet oil fitting I got from Begi. It screws in the turbo just fine. It actually fits my 4an line, well kind of. My oil line I bought(used) has some sort of small restrictor looking thing where it connects to the fitting. The restrictor is so long I can't screw the fitting on. I took a dremmel and filed down the top of the inlet fitting and I was able to get a couple turns out of the line. Should I still try and use a pop rivet fitting or will whatever is inside this line suffice?

4) Just a question, where can I get the piece that will connect my tunertoys or whatever it's called oil supply fitting to my 4an oil line?


I'll be home in about 2 hours and will take some pictures of what I'm talking about with the exhaust housing piece and the thing inside the oil fitting.

As for your tunertoys oil take off fitting, you'll need a (by the sounds of it) 1/8 NPT to -4AN fitting.

Do you know a specific place?

anplumbing.com

For downpipe fitment, I would question the turbo less, the downpipe more.

Agreed.

To the OP, are you saying that the turbine outlet doesn't match up with the flange, or that the DP doesn't seem to be fitting into your car in general. Its really kind of a bitch to get it all in, i just got done doing it.

The flange on the downpipe sits perfectly flush with the exhaust housing, it's just the bolt holes don't line up, they are slightly off. Here's some pics of what I have and what's going on:

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3909/73116086.jpg

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9307/83534914.jpg

the 2nd pic is alot blurry, but it looks like you have the wrong DP. is is a 5 bolt flange or is it a 3 bolt?

is that a flange looking thing on the EH the problem is it the DP? what is that thing in the 1st pic, an adapter or something?

The first picture is a flange that is removable. The exhausting housing(without that weird flange) is a 5 bolt design that is very similar to the one on the sr20 t25.

does the gasket match the EH or the DP?

The first picture shows the exhaust housing(bottom) with the weird flange that came with it....which bolts up to it just fine. The second picture shows the exhaust housing with the begi-s downpipe. The flange that is on the begi-s downpipe has a slight fitment issue(the holes don't line up right).

Spring break is next week and I'm just thinking about taking the pieces down to the local muffler shop and having them try and fix this shit for me. The flange(where it has the three bolt section) appears to stick out the same amount so it should retain the downpipe in the same spot, hopefully. I just need to make sure it gets welded at the same angle.

I'm thinking this is the one:

http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/4950/nptfittingz.png

bump, still having three other problems...

The flange that came with the turbo should be weldable. Just make sure you get the orientation correctly marked prior to having it welded. (2 marks with a sharpie would be sufficient.)