Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1161560)
rpm is a terrible unit for spool, miliseconds is much better. Over 4k aint nothing going to spool faster than an EFR I dont care how small it is.
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1161905)
Look as his data again, 2554 was at 2k and 2.5k the rest were at 2.5k and 3k. Who cares about making boost down there anyways? You've never using that boost.
There's a pleasantness to having a very wide torque band which is there in my 540i, and which the 2554 was better at than the 2560.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1161904)
And I think they will next mention transients, "which you can't see on a dyno"
And unless the same person drives the 2 turbos then the only way to compare 2 different setups is through datalogs. |
I've driven both turbos. My subjective opinion is that the EFR responds better than every Garrett setup I've driven, including my old BP4W/2554R setup. I agree that the 2560R is a softer turbo, and the 2860RS is softer again (IMO that turbo is too big for a 1.6 and as large as I would ever go for a 1.8 street car, having owned a 2871R). The 6258's spool was as good or better than my 2554R setup was, and the transient response was better.
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However your 2554 was on an NA 1.8, and the EFR6258, on a VVT, correct?
VVT spools > 99/00 > NA 1.8 |
The EFR I drove was on a BP05 and it was essentially untuned. It was still as good as my polished BP4W/2554R setup.
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Do not run an EFR6258 on a stock block! Even with the "low boost" actuator set with minimal preload i was not able to keep it below 8psi. It broke a rod at the first autocross this year.
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8psi = 200ft.lbs at most. If you broke a rod at 200ft.lbs, it was the tune, not the turbo.
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Originally Posted by swimming108
(Post 1162060)
Do not run an EFR6258 on a stock block! Even with the "low boost" actuator set with minimal preload i was not able to keep it below 8psi. It broke a rod at the first autocross this year.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1162061)
8psi = 200ft.lbs at most. If you broke a rod at 200ft.lbs, it was the tune, not the turbo.
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Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 1162064)
So far no one has been able to run EFR6258 on stock block without blowing it up :fael:
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1162061)
8psi = 200ft.lbs at most. If you broke a rod at 200ft.lbs, it was the tune, not the turbo.
Originally Posted by HHammerly
(Post 1162062)
Did you have EBC working and tuned ? I can keep 10psi on the medium boost canister w EBC (for the reccord i did not try cold weather or lower boost settings)
The point is that EFR turbo does not belong on a stock engine... |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1162061)
8psi = 200ft.lbs at most. If you broke a rod at 200ft.lbs, it was the tune, not the turbo.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371503403 |
We all know that EFR on stock block is on thin ice at best, why even waste time arguing about it?
Anything at all outside ideal circumstances happens, and boom. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1162071)
We all know that EFR on stock block is on thin ice at best, why even waste time arguing about it?
Anything at all outside ideal circumstances happens, and boom. Exactly!!! Now who wants to build me a new block...?:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1162068)
Then your EMS4 basemap timing is more aggressive than I thought. This was on a minimally pre-loaded 7psi actuator it creeped to 10psi at peak torque and more or less on your timing and vvt maps (putting a car with electrical problems the dyno is some expensive troubleshooting), lol. I think 8psi on the 6258 or 6758 EFR is going to be worth more than 200ftlbs with a more aggressive timing map.
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And thats 200ftlbs on a low reading dynapac, which would be closer to 220 on a dynojet.
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1161942)
EFR6258 and GTX2863 compressor maps awfully similar:
Red is the EFR: For me personally its either, EFR$$Custom$$, or Begi S6 iron mani down the street with tial vband gtx2863, support is close by if anything goes wrong. But dat low end EFR spooool :drool: |
This thread actually had the best actual comparison data I've seen. Are there any others?
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...cussion-79576/ |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1162065)
The guy who built your setup had no problem doing it :party:
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I'm currently sitting on a 6258 so I've had a good time following this thread.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1162071)
We all know that EFR on stock block is on thin ice at best, why even waste time arguing about it?
Anything at all outside ideal circumstances happens, and boom. If all you want is 200/200 and epic spool, go buy a FMII & 2554. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1162164)
I'm currently sitting on a 6258 so I've had a good time following this thread.
This sums up my thinking exactly. I'm going to try my best not to do my install until there is a built motor between the frame rails. I have no doubt that someone with careful planning, experience and knowledge of how these systems work would be able to keep things "stock block" compliant, but I'm not that person. I see no reason to run a baller manifold & $$$ turbo that'll do 44lbs/min at something silly like 5~6psi to preserve the stock block. If all you want is 200/200 and epic spool, go buy a FMII & 2554. But you are right, no sense in attempting to tame that beast for the sake of a stock block...(and probably failing at that, too.) It is kinda lame that the FMII kit is gonna cost me more tho, that's the part I don't like. |
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