Excessive catchcan oil
8 Attachment(s)
Recently I have been making a 40 mile drive, mostly highway, around 80mph. This is the result. Overflowing my catchcan.
My guess is around 36 ounces based on the oil on the shelf and ground. Around 3 beer cans worth. Oil is only coming out of the driver's side. Running a garett 2554r around 12psi. Yesterday, thinking I was smart, I disconnected the passenger side and ran it to a can. This solved nothing. Changed the driver's side to run uphill over the intake made no change. I still have the 323gtx valve on the passenger side. Driving home in an hour and expect to be mopping more oil. Going to be making this drive often now because of a family issue. Any help is greatly appreciated. What am I doing wrong? Thanks, Shane |
Overflowed it on the way home.
|
1. Leakdown the motor, if you have anything worse than 20% leak at the rings you have a blowby issue
2. Assuming your motor is healthy, you should be able to hook the factory PCV hose up to the intake manifold, run a breather on the driver's side, and have no oil consumption/blowby issue. In reality, I'm expecting you to fail test 1. If you have issues filling cans on the highway, you have motor issues. Road course cars are a little different but for street turbo cars, you should be able to run the factory PCV setup with no issue. |
I have a similar issue but i dont have a catch can. I notice minor oil residue coming from the base of the oil cap(def not enough ti fil a soda can). I have a breather in driver side. Sav you know why this is happening?
|
what is with that first IC pipe?!?! its almost a 180 degree turn in like a 3 inch area.
|
also it looks like you are running a breather filter on your idle valve. those are known to leak under boost. route that back into your cold side IC piping.
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 803638)
1. Leakdown the motor, if you have anything worse than 20% leak at the rings you have a blowby issue
2. Assuming your motor is healthy, you should be able to hook the factory PCV hose up to the intake manifold, run a breather on the driver's side, and have no oil consumption/blowby issue. In reality, I'm expecting you to fail test 1. If you have issues filling cans on the highway, you have motor issues. Road course cars are a little different but for street turbo cars, you should be able to run the factory PCV setup with no issue. Other than this, the engine feels fine. *sigh* Is the blowby purely from boost? Do you think it would be worth it to disconnect the wastegate? I will source a leakdown tester, and post up the results. |
Originally Posted by Clos561
(Post 803650)
I have a similar issue but i dont have a catch can. I notice minor oil residue coming from the base of the oil cap(def not enough ti fil a soda can). I have a breather in driver side. Sav you know why this is happening?
Originally Posted by Slacker2223
(Post 803694)
what is with that first IC pipe?!?! its almost a 180 degree turn in like a 3 inch area.
That originally went from the turbo inlet to the air filter. It just so happens to fit well here too. It is a Begi piece from the S kit.
Originally Posted by Slacker2223
(Post 803695)
also it looks like you are running a breather filter on your idle valve. those are known to leak under boost. route that back into your cold side IC piping.
|
Originally Posted by 94mx5red
(Post 803777)
Carlos, are you frequently in the Northlake/Coconut area? Pretty sure I have seen you running around the acerage.
Pretty sweet, right? :giggle: That originally went from the turbo inlet to the air filter. It just so happens to fit well here too. It is a Begi piece from the S kit. Oh yea... I remember reading about that a while ago, and promptly forgot to do anything about it. |
Just plug them holes right up and no more problem
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 803638)
1. Leakdown the motor, if you have anything worse than 20% leak at the rings you have a blowby issue
Can piston rings leak even though compression test show ok numbers? (195-195-190-190 PSI) |
Yep, compression will show up fine because the oil helps the rings seal. Leakdown test betrays the engine's confidences every time, though.
|
2 Attachment(s)
I kept out of boost and speed down to 75mph, and it still puked oil.
Harbor Freight was the only place I could find a leakdown tester unless I wanted to order online. This is the exact one that I got. Feels cheap. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1323434683 I tried it last night, and quit when the mosquitoes got bad. This was my first attempt ever, and I think I screwed up. I did not put the car in gear after finding TDC. Here is the method I used: - disconnect battery - pull plugs and wires - find TDC for #1 - test - went to TDC from cylinders in order 1 - 3- 4 - 2 - did not put car in gear First round: 1: 63 3: 29 ; 30 4: 59 ; 70 ; 65 2: 20 ; 21 Second round: 1: 22 ; 34 ; 53 ; 100 3: 27 ; 34 ; 37 4: 26 ; 22 2: 39 ; 33 ; 24 Third round: 1: 40 ; 100 ; 37 ; 37 eaten alive I am guessing that these may be mostly useless since I did not lock the engine from spinning. I will try again on Saturday. |
Well, I guess I have a blowby issue.
Did the leakdown on a cold engine, and remembered to put the transmission in gear. It is difficult to get consistant results with this tool, but these are the averages: 1: 24 2: 32 3: 32 4: 25 To add insult to injury, the small fitting you see in the picture of the tool, unscrewed from the hose and is sitting in the #1 plug hole. I can't get it out. I tried putting some thread locker on the hose and screwed it in. Will let it sit until tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by Clos561
(Post 803849)
i have a few friends out there but i live in royal palm beach. la mancha to be exact. you?
Know anyone that wants to buy a miata with blown rings? I have a spare low milage 95 engine to go with it. turboz not included. |
Cheap and easy fix. Just fix it and turn up the boost..
|
With the leakdown tester hooked up, take the oil cap off and listen for air in the oil cap, through the intake, and out the tailpipe. At 30+% one/all of them will sound like a very, very leaky air compressor fitting.
Oil cap = rings Exhaust = Exh. valves Intake = Int. valves If you hit the wrong TDC, the leakdown will be ~45%. If you get 45%, spin it over again and try again. Then go 1-3-4-2 from there. Your numbers (assuming its rings) would probably produce blowby, yeah. It's time for a shortblock. |
Does somebody know where I can get cheap leakdown tester online?
|
The one he posted from Harbor Freight is about as cheap as you're gonna get. I haven't found any tool places that beat their prices though just about all of them beat their quality. I usually buy their stuff anyway because I don't make a living with my tools.
|
Originally Posted by 94mx5red
(Post 804679)
I am up in Stuart, but I am doing all the work at my family's house in the acerage.
Know anyone that wants to buy a miata with blown rings? I have a spare low milage 95 engine to go with it. turboz not included. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 804773)
With the leakdown tester hooked up, take the oil cap off and listen for air in the oil cap, through the intake, and out the tailpipe. At 30+% one/all of them will sound like a very, very leaky air compressor fitting.
Oil cap = rings Exhaust = Exh. valves Intake = Int. valves If you hit the wrong TDC, the leakdown will be ~45%. If you get 45%, spin it over again and try again. Then go 1-3-4-2 from there. Your numbers (assuming its rings) would probably produce blowby, yeah. It's time for a shortblock. Anything else I should be testing before I start removing the engine? I have never pulled an engine on a miata, and only once before in my life. Is the general consensus that I take the transmission out with it? To complicate matters, this car is going to be returned to stock. I am trying to decide whether to pull the MS now or after I get the new engine started. Preferably, I would like to pull the MS and swap in stock injectors now. Opinions? I guess me and boost were never meant to be :facepalm: |
6 Attachment(s)
i kid :giggle:
turbo and MS are replacing the supercharger on the 99. Since I know this forum is a lover of vortech... |
Originally Posted by 94mx5red
(Post 805926)
I have never pulled an engine on a miata, and only once before in my life. Is the general consensus that I take the transmission out with it?
|
Originally Posted by 94mx5red
(Post 805988)
To add, I will be doing this alone.
|
Originally Posted by savington
(Post 804773)
with the leakdown tester hooked up, take the oil cap off and listen for air in the oil cap, through the intake, and out the tailpipe. At 30+% one/all of them will sound like a very, very leaky air compressor fitting.
Oil cap = rings exhaust = exh. Valves intake = int. Valves if you hit the wrong tdc, the leakdown will be ~45%. If you get 45%, spin it over again and try again. Then go 1-3-4-2 from there. Your numbers (assuming its rings) would probably produce blowby, yeah. It's time for a shortblock. First I did compression test: 1# = 190 psi 2# = 190 psi 3# = 185 psi 4# = 190 psi and then leakdown test: 1# = 4% leak 2# = 50% leak 3# = 11% leak 4# = 6% leak cyl 2# didn't seem normal so I did it again and it was over 80% leak. I remove the exhaust manifold and could feel how air was escaping through Ex.valve(s) stuck or..? |
4 Attachment(s)
engine out
edit: ,thanks to carlos. |
Originally Posted by muoto
(Post 824160)
I found a leakdown tester and just tested all the cylinders
First I did compression test: 1# = 190 psi 2# = 190 psi 3# = 185 psi 4# = 190 psi and then leakdown test: 1# = 4% leak 2# = 50% leak 3# = 11% leak 4# = 6% leak cyl 2# didn't seem normal so I did it again and it was over 80% leak. I remove the exhaust manifold and could feel how air was escaping through Ex.valve(s) stuck or..? |
In for valve job.
|
Bottom line:
Compression Test = Waste of Time BTW, Fae discoverd that even if you don't disconnect everything, the car has an "auto-disconnect" feature as you rip the engine/tranny out. So, no worries. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 824481)
Bottom line:
Compression Test = Waste of Time BTW, Fae discoverd that even if you don't disconnect everything, the car has an "auto-disconnect" feature as you rip the engine/tranny out. So, no worries. Personally i think you should drill a hole in your oil cap and route your catch can back into you oil cap. Problem solved. Now bow dow. To your new master and get out there and run the biitch!!! |
2 Attachment(s)
newer engine in.
|
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 824267)
Bent valve or a major seat issue. The last motor I leaked at 75% turned up compression numbers in the ~100psi range and ran on 2, maybe 3 cylinders.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327349670 |
2 Attachment(s)
One piece exhaust ftw :ugh2:
I grew tired or the 3", and ended up with the stock exhaust from the 99. Spool suffered at least 1000rpm. Pretty sure I datalogged if there is interest. Having it quiet was nice. The exhaust shop took a couple liberties I was not comfortable with, but I did not complain, as I did not think I would be in the situation I am in. Will likely cut the downpipe to mate with the 2.5" on the 99, rather than getting a new one. |
2 Attachment(s)
This is what my ebay f1 stage 3 clutch looks after 4 years and around 35k miles looks like. Practically down to the rivets.
I drove this daily and slipped first hard on a regular basis. |
In general about this HF tester - it is huge pile of junk as is and shows bad numbers.
For future use - first change the second gauge with a 100 psi one (i.e. from McMaster.com). Also cut the aluminum block and change the orifice size cause the one inside is nowhere in spec. Do a 0.040 in (1.0 mm ) orifice. Then measure the leakdown with 100 psi at the inlet.
Originally Posted by 94mx5red
(Post 804245)
I kept out of boost and speed down to 75mph, and it still puked oil.
Harbor Freight was the only place I could find a leakdown tester unless I wanted to order online. This is the exact one that I got. Feels cheap. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1323434683 I tried it last night, and quit when the mosquitoes got bad. This was my first attempt ever, and I think I screwed up. I did not put the car in gear after finding TDC. Here is the method I used: - disconnect battery - pull plugs and wires - find TDC for #1 - test - went to TDC from cylinders in order 1 - 3- 4 - 2 - did not put car in gear First round: 1: 63 3: 29 ; 30 4: 59 ; 70 ; 65 2: 20 ; 21 Second round: 1: 22 ; 34 ; 53 ; 100 3: 27 ; 34 ; 37 4: 26 ; 22 2: 39 ; 33 ; 24 Third round: 1: 40 ; 100 ; 37 ; 37 eaten alive I am guessing that these may be mostly useless since I did not lock the engine from spinning. I will try again on Saturday. |
Everything about it felt cheap.
If I remember correctly, the pressure was only around 20psi at testing. Probably going in the trash. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:33 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands