Exhaust Manifold survey- 1.6 liter
 

I am looking for feedback from the regulars on the different exhaust manifolds being offered to boost a 1.6 liter. Having heard of problems with cracking of the early GReddy product, was hoping to hear more about this problem (solved?) and about any other known problems with other vendors, or of folks really liking what they installed etc.
I have been looking but unable to find a divided outlet style manifold ( cylinders 1&4 together, and 2&3). Does anyone make such a unit?

Appreciate the input.

My other car..
http://www.gt3fx.com/deathride/photos/photo_15.jpg

Check out ETD racing.

http://www.etdracing.com/manifolds.html

Is that a miata? Whats under the hood?

Vash-

The greddy mani wont crack if you have relief cuts in them.

is that a miata!?!? I want more pics of that car!

That is my old ex-IMSA 1st gen RX-7. Used to run a 13B Peri Port in the day, but is too loud for most venues now, so built an old school "Ship In Bottle" blow through set up wih an ancient RayJay turbo, Holley Carb and a 12a motor.
Tons o' fun.
http://www.gt3fx.com/deathride/photos/photo_07.jpg

My Grandson wishing he was old enough...

http://www.gt3fx.com/deathride/photos/photo_14.jpg

1st gen rx7

http://www.atlantarx7.com/images/mar...body%20Kit.jpg

"my old ex-IMSA 1st gen RX-7"
as in you were racing IMSA GTU back in the day? have any pics from then? I watched a lot of these cars race when I was growing up. Inspired me to go racing.

BEGi S4, ETD shorty and long tube, Flipside Customs, Tim @ Shoremotorsports (see Paul's manifold), few others I'm forgetting.

I am envious of your downpipe, pure sex man!!!
I know you came here to get answers, and you will, but i want to know how wide those wheels are? 10's maybe?
Looks like you can do some fabbing based on your engine bay pick, if you did do the work yourself, so why not just make your own mani. This way you can pick and choose what turbo, how you want it to sit, internal or external WG.
Reason i say this is that most of the shelf mani's mount the turbo up too high for my liking, and then you have a super S downpipe, not ideal IMO. By mounting the turbo lower, you get more of a straighter exit like on your RX7, much better!!!
Stay away from E-Bay, nothing but crap on there, will crack, even if you weld it 16 times.
Welcome to MTnet,
Dan

When I got my Greddy back in 2000 all that was needed to prevent the cracking was to do the relief cuts. Mine has been fine with no problems for a ton of miles and boosts, etc. The aftermarket manifolds do lower the turbo and give you a better setup in the overall.

Sharp RX you have there, the first gens were def awesome.

Appreciate the feedback. I am at work now so can't post up any old IMSA photos, but will when I can.

I am looking to put together a kit for early Miata race cars with a stand alone ECU (my own brand) that is Plug and Play to the stock harness, and comes with a MAP and Air temp sensor that plug directly into the AFM harness. The idea is to find (if possible) an already mass produced manifold that has proven reliability. Ideally I would fab up a prototype with a split turbine intake , and an external WG, and run a quick spooler at low boost for road racing.

In the meantime here is a link to my street car, and a photo.
http://www.gt3fx.com

http://www.gt3fx.com/gt3fxphotopages...ontQuarter.jpg

I am liking the flipside unit. Any users out there want to put in their 2 cents?

My dirt car...
http://www.gt3fx.com/rally_car_photos/05.jpg

only two members here have used it. One Kelly, which the pic is of and the second is brgracer, his built of the manifold can be seen here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18868

unfortunately, tom still has yet to put his kit together, and Kelly sold his long ago.

i'll throw my two cents in:

long runners aren't worth it. save the weight with a shorty or something similar.

Thanks ,this is all very helpful. was reading on the other thread about the solid lifters in Tom's build. The Mazda Motorsports shim under bucket lifters are not to prevent "float", but to make certain the valve fully opens at high revs.
HLA's "squish" just a little as the cam pushes down on them. Normally this is not a problem except at high RPM's the HLA can't "unsquish" fast enough so it begins to compress with each push. This means the valve lift and duration become shorter.

Valve float has to do with seat pressure and valve spring rates. Essentially the valves close with such force at high revs that they "bounce" and re open when they are supposed to be closed. Stiffer springs or dual springs (cuts down on the harmonic "bounce") are the cure.

The under bucket shim is for high rev application as the adjuster shims lock onto the bucket stem. the later 1.8 liter solid lifter shim over bucket is not for high rev application as the shim disc can be shot out by the cam, causing some serious problems.

My current Miata Track Car.....
http://teamk1pix.bugbyte.com/main.ph...pg&var2=500_85

Actually they reduce float because the spring rate is reduced since the assembly weight is (dramatically) reduced over the hla and NB shim-over-bucket setup. I have the entire mazda comp shim-under-bucket setup (with motorola cup cams) - ran them for a season in an NB.

The weight reduction does reduce float as you correctly state. Same reasoning behind using lighter valve material (titanium). Thanks for picking up on my overlooking that part.

all these badass cars and you still have not told us your location...
pronto

I live in Rancho Santa Fe California, near San Diego.

As far as market manifolds that are proven. In terms of downward angled manifolds, the AVO manifold is nice and has seen some good numbers on it, it sits a little far back making the downpipe not quite as strait shot, however, it'd be worse if it was higher up. I think it's pushed back for clearance on things like power steering and ac.

It has a t2 flange, and when I was looking I had a t3, thought about getting an adapter plate, but apparently it might run into clearance issues with the subframe if you drop it down any lower.