F00-king turbo nuts/studs ain't coming out anymore!
 

After having trouble after trouble after trouble with turbo nuts and studs coming loose, i've decided to fix this prob once and for all... Not only did I resbond the studs and nuts, but I also tack welded the studs to the manifold, and tack welded the nuts to the studs. My guess is if the resbond fails to hold it in place, then the tack weld will :)

they stretch.

LMAO! :laugh: Should have just welded the turbo to manifold.

Good luck

Wow you've solved all our problems. Please, move on to world peace.

I thought you were selling that car >:|

God damn the economy, look at what madness it has driven you to.

Pics?

In before the shit stretches and you have a leaky turbo and a bunch of welds to grind off.

If I am welding awaiting my v-band setup, I am welding it all together. All the way round that is.

This is possibly the funniest and worst thread of all time. Only time will tell. Welding manifold to housing would be so much better tbh.
Pics please.

1/2 trbohz

There, it's done:

You guys should all use 7/6" studs in a manifold tapped for m10. That's my secret trick.

at this point, why not just weld the damn flanges together and forget about it forever? if it's good enough for SRT4....

Those areas work under heat and will crack in no time according to the guy at OTS. This is the best option.

Now come on, you say the studs will stretch and the turbo flanges will leak?

Why is this not a problem on Mazdaspeed miatas from the factory. Their nuts never come loose...

The MSM doesn't have any nuts.

Point proven?

fixed.

on
the
track

You're kidding me? I did not know that they used bolts instead of studs, but it makes perfectly good sense now. I think i'll go back and replace everything now...

You have done the same thing safety wire would have accomplished, except your method is permanent so when the studs stretch and make that leak anyway, you'll be fixing your fuckup with a grinder and a headache vs. a pair of wire cutters and a bottle of cris.

Only my studs are from the same material that works for OTS in their rally monster any race weekend. And I won't be fixing this fuckup anymore. Next is V-bands.

Some grade 10 hardware torque to about 40 -50 ft-lbs with a good thick thread coating with Resbond 2000 F thread locker says this shit ain't unscrewing anymore. It may stretch, but i'll be there to tighten the first couple of heat cycles...

can't effectively heat-cycle on the street.

you need ny-lock lock nuts and it will work fine, maybe even use loctite.

tack welds wont affect that wrench usage?

Perhaps a manifold to outlet joining method thread should be started.
Methods that work for you detailed single posts sent to a moderator to post so thread doesn't get junked with stupid questions.
Two definite posts should be
Lockwire
Redrilling for bolts

Ok, I'll say it:
OH MY GOD
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35874/
It's only 27 pages, no wonder you missed it!

Can you not read?
I guess that question is already answered given your response to my post.
"a manifold to outlet joining method thread" NOT a thread with bitching and arguing over what is wrong and more ways to screw with your setup.
A thread that details the how-tos of such things to aid people minimise the problem by people that have successfully dealt with it. Like Splittime or Braineack or Savington (no gasket, 7/16 M10, Lockwire respectively).
You adding stupid shouting comments only serves to promote you as rude and with a slowly shrinking intellect. Read first. After 10 years FM or BEGI would/could/should have come up with something those 27 pages give no practical help apart from listing possible equipment and parts needed.

If you use the Resbond and then tighten after heat cycles, the Resbond "bond" will be broken and not effective anymore, unless I am missing something.

I only read minds and yours looks sad.It helps if we have the final answer/a working solution for that imaginary thread of yours. No one has seriously track driven a cast manifold setup that doesn't fall apart. Sav is switching to v-bands. You go read. If you have the answer, post it there.
This is a forum not a manual.

A final answer is not what I was after as if it is eluding FM and BEGI how the hell is my bodgtastic car gonna help. Hell I'm willing to give it all a go as long as its not permanent (like the welding).
You are right this is a forum which in turns warrants expression and assembly. Expression of opinions, desires, thoughts is why we come to this and any forum. An assembly of minds whose collective knowledge forms a wisdom to rival the best minds on the planet. Unfortunately this knowledge must be passed on and without walkthroughs or manuals or instructions no one can learn.
Just because Sav is going V-bands doesn't mean he can't help if he wants. After all he has the knowldge (given he has said he has done it). Helping others maintain their car to a good standard means more people come back to help other do the same or different.