Fabricating your own exhaust?
06-27-2010, 05:36 AM
#41
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Is your yurbo on the manifold yet and bolted to the car? does the 200sx downpipe clear the gearbox? The satndard cast iron one I had didn't. The stainless one I bought just needed a small amount of an unused lug on the gearbox removing.
If you down pipe doesn't fit at least you can cut the flange off it and start your build from there. I'll try and sort some pics today but it is the grand prix and the england germany match so no promises
If you down pipe doesn't fit at least you can cut the flange off it and start your build from there. I'll try and sort some pics today but it is the grand prix and the england germany match so no promises
I havent started the build yet. I intended to get all the parts first then do the build. I wanted to keep running the car as long as possible. Its not my main car but I enjoy a ride out a few times a week.
I never got the full downpipe. I got a small cast iron piece that is about 8" and bends off from the turbo.
I could probably get a downpipe from the guy who sold me the turbo as he said I could have one if needed.
But I want to try and get a 3" stainless one if I can so I do the job right the first time round.
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06-28-2010, 03:17 AM
#45
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I have lots to clean up, including most of the underside of the car. I might take the header wrap off as I've read mixed reviews about it.
The rear muffler is made by a company called powerflow, its glass packed and alledgedly repackable. It all hangs on the standard hangers and allowed me not to have too many bends in there. There is a small muffler (silencer) just after the flex joint.
The rear muffler is made by a company called powerflow, its glass packed and alledgedly repackable. It all hangs on the standard hangers and allowed me not to have too many bends in there. There is a small muffler (silencer) just after the flex joint.
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06-28-2010, 04:36 PM
#47
Me and my brother (who is a pretty decent welder) just picked up 10 feet of 2.5" ss tubing and two 180 degree bends and he should be making my exhaust for me sometime this week. I asked him to take some pictures, so I'll post them up for ya. Just a nice 2.5" pipe from cat-back...No resonator, no muffler, no problems.
Last edited by miatacross; 06-29-2010 at 06:04 PM.
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06-30-2010, 04:20 PM
#53
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in 5x8x18 magnaflow canister it's easier to fit with offset inlet/center outlet, that's what I have used mostly and it's what I have on my car. Way too f'in loud with no turbo, I had to add a plug in it over the winter w/no turbo. With a 2560 it's still pretty loud, noticeably louder than my old twins. Booo. That bigass Y8S/braineak canister might be in my future.
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06-30-2010, 05:22 PM
#54
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Can't imagine searching too hard would be useful.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/y8s-put-his-spec-all-over-me-i-liked-exhaust-build-48215/
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/y8s-put-his-spec-all-over-me-i-liked-exhaust-build-48215/
seriously though, im in a similar welding situation as you were, i guess. (im 19 and have a little experience) I've only done MIG, but I'm relatively proficient with steel having done a fair amount of work, reading a little online, and just kind of "picking it up". However, I may be interested in getting an inexpensive TIG setup; what would you guys recommend for doing an exhaust like this, that would be "cost-justifiable"?
Also, I had a very reputable welder help me make a pulsejet one time (rolled, fitted and welded), he said it was a bit of a task to fit (after my excellent sheet cutting skills..) because with stainless you cant have any gaps in the joint being welded. To what extent is that true? can you get away with less than "perfect" with stainless or is it not all that hard to square up the ends with a bench sander or something? I can get pretty straight cuts on pipe with a hacksaw though, especially with the blade set up for pull stroke.
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06-30-2010, 05:57 PM
#56
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in 5x8x18 magnaflow canister it's easier to fit with offset inlet/center outlet, that's what I have used mostly and it's what I have on my car. Way too f'in loud with no turbo, I had to add a plug in it over the winter w/no turbo. With a 2560 it's still pretty loud, noticeably louder than my old twins. Booo. That bigass Y8S/braineak canister might be in my future.
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07-01-2010, 07:38 AM
#58
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If the guy doing the exhaust says to go with what you have then that should be ok. When I did my first I ordered in a bunch of mufflers in different offsets, including the one Y8s ultimately used and thought hte 5x8x18 offset/center was the biggest I could fit. (Obviously y8s showed how to fit the larger canister later.) For me the offset/center was easier to package.
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07-01-2010, 07:41 AM
#59
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Also, I had a very reputable welder help me make a pulsejet one time (rolled, fitted and welded), he said it was a bit of a task to fit (after my excellent sheet cutting skills..) because with stainless you cant have any gaps in the joint being welded. To what extent is that true? can you get away with less than "perfect" with stainless or is it not all that hard to square up the ends with a bench sander or something? I can get pretty straight cuts on pipe with a hacksaw though, especially with the blade set up for pull stroke.
I have filled in huge gaps in stainless with my Tig, I've also "sculpted" **** with it, just using filler wire to build up material where I needed it (making stops for the handle on my lawnmower so it wouldn't be so sloppy, etc). Not ideal for strength but easy to do with the control you have with a tig. But if you need the joint to be strong, like in a manifold, then there should be no gap.
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07-01-2010, 10:52 AM
#60
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you need center inlet at least. I think you can manage the outlet with the offset or center but the offset gives you a little more tailpipe space (outlet mounted away from the bumper).
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