Fav ebay intercooler kit? update with pics2
 

Long story short, my rx7 shell and hks IC connection fell through. Now i'm looking for an ebay special IC kit with a mounting location for my bypass valve.

You guys have any particular brand or sellers you like to deal with, and which ones to avoid? I figure i'll be dropping a couple hundred bucks so.

Thanks!

Intercooler core from speedyracer on eBay and then custom ic piping.


Most people here just use 6 couPlers and pre bent pipes.

ic kit 2.25
Well, I just bought this one. Probably will stick with my bypass valve over the BOV but who knows? lol

Thanks for the advice!

I usually stick to the feedback, if I see IC a dime a dozen been sold with good FB, then should be safe to purchase.

let us know if you like the kit/ fitment.

Sure.

From what i've gathered from mt.net, I need a 2in tube off the turbo then 2.25in for both in/out of the IC and finally a 2.5in tube for the throttlebody. I think i'll try using the begi piping I already have for the turbo and TB if it'll work.

The kit includes 2.25in piping so I'll need to do some fab work i'm sure.

Should arrive by friday. I'll post pics.

Package arrived today.:drool:


Let's...go...red...wings!! :winner:

What's the quality in your opinion, Flounder?

I haven't seen many other brands but this one seems good quality. The box weighed 28lbs.

The intercooler looks badass and weighs 7lbs, everything is aluminum and the hoses are similar to the begi ones but more plyable. Even the bov seems really well made even though it was supposed to be blue!! :vash: Better silver than red though.

The pipes are shiny and have good flaring on the ends.

I'd be really interested to hear the BOV quality. I'll probably pick up that exact kit myself if it is decent.

Well I spent yesterday researching my plan of attack on the Intercooler setup and decided to remove the power steering and a/c while I was at it.

After the bumper was off and the radiator was out, everything else went smoothly. The only thing left of the a/c is the evaporator and the compressor bracket. The p/s is down the only the rack and I still have to loop the lines to finish that off .

The IC I bought is roughly the same length as the radiator and should fit nicely right in front of it near the bottom. I plan on using the condenser/rad mounting brackets on the bottom to install a plate across for mounting the IC.

The piping, for sure, is going to be the hardest part of the job. I will be getting into that sometime this week and will post pics if anyone is interested.

That's the best ebay special BOV. The simplest type, so the least to go wrong. There are three parts - the housing, spring and piston.

It's the one I have. The only bad thing about it (Depending on your perspective) is that it is loud as FUCK. Seriously, unbelievably, gunshot loud. I personally like it, but others might not find it quite so satisfying.

And with the loose tolerances there will be 5-6 thousands of space between them...Good tolerance for airtight parts is within 1 thousandth of an inch.

It's 40 dollars, not 200. Boo hoo.

Nice try rider.

http://thinkinglikeacustomer.com/wp-...llseye_med.jpg

I was stating a fact. What did I ever do to you? What reason do you have to go against me? Have I wronged you in some way? Do I add idiocy to this board?

The answer is no. I wasn't instigating a conflict, I was stating my opinion. You came back at me, I came back. Perhaps the "boo-hoo" was a bit over the top, but it was to accentuate my point of the thing costing a fifth of what the real thing costs. You've got a problem with me; tell me what it is.

Please do this. I'd like to see as much as possible on it.

Looks like my Ebay IC kit. But I don't think mine had the center bolt boss in the middle.
I paid $120 for mine and i'm happy with it.
Took a bit of work to size up the pipes and make the right cuts but I saved a lot of $$$

Somewhere in my build thread I have pictures and details of the eBay IC kit I was using. It literally took an afternoon to make the cuts and piece it together.

After all was said and done though I decided to get the all silicone IC pipes from FM. I sold the ones I made and someone somewhere is using them.

Sit back down and hush up little one.

[QUOTE=Vashthestampede;692520]Somewhere in my build thread I have pictures and details of the eBay IC kit I was using. It literally took an afternoon to make the cuts and piece it together.QUOTE]

How did you go about going from 2-2.25in and then 2.25 to 2.5in? I'm sure I need to buy more piping than the kit came with huh?

About the BOV, if it's loud i'll probably stick with my bypass valve. I kinda like my boost silent but deadly if you know what I mean.;) It'll be in the for sale section if I don't end up using it.

Here's a couple shots.

Looks good. I'm curious, how is it mounted?

Well FartTroll, it isn't. :)

I plan on adding a steel bar across the each lower radiator support and drilling out 3 holes to mount the IC.

Got the angle steel sized and drilled for mounting. I decided i'm going to weld each core support bracket to the steel instead of trying to bolt it up. It's mocked up in the pics, but that is exactly where it will sit when completed.
I still have to cut out space on each side of the airdam for the piping

With everything back together the ic should fill up the entire mouth of the bumper.

Btw, where's a good place to find 90degree coupler reducers? I need a 2.50-2.25in and a 2.25-2.00in.

Do you need the reducers in metal specifically or can you use silicone? I personally like the gradual 90 degree reducers. Basically a 90 degree elbow that gradually goes from the size you want to whatever.

I believe most here shop at silicone intakes but let them confirm.

Yeah, silicone is what i'd like to use. Just for the compressor and the throttlebody openings. The IC and piping is all 2.25in as well as the 8 straight couplers I already have.

I tried ebay but very limited in stuff that goes to 2.25in.

yeah most are 4"+ for them mad VTEC people

As i said siliconeintakes.com has the stuff u want...black, blue and red...
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9

Sorry, I missed that. :) Thanks for the link, just bought them both and hopefully they'll be here by mid week.

Get some pics up!

It's coming.

I just finally got to weld the brackets today. I work 50+ hrs a week so i'm mostly working on this in the weekend. Plus, I still have to wait for the 2 reducers to come in the mail.

Ok, got some more work done today. Everything is cut and sized I just have to flare all the ends before I clamp them.

The compressor inlet is a work in progress. Currently I'm still using the begi steup until I think of something different. I still have to find a spot for the bypass valve too.

Sorry for the shitty quality pics, and yes, that is a pink barbie jeep in my garage. No you can't borrow it.

Good work!!!

I like how the intercooler doesn't hang too low. It is tucked up nicely near the middle of the radiator. Not obvious or flashy. Nice work, waiting for pics of bumper mounted.

Here are a couple pics of the bumper installed. I can't for the life of me find my camera so cell phone is all I got. Fitment is good, totally centered and looks like it's meant to be there. I have a screen that will go in front of it but it needs to be cleaned and painted black first.

Ok, She's all done. Don't have any new pics but some questions.

Everything is tight and I ended up trying to use my begi sourced bypass valve without recirc by using a check valve. I bought a 2'' to 2.75'' reducer and installed the maf directly on the compressor inlet.

First thing I noticed was that there was a hell of a lot of pressure drop from previously. I was only seeing like 4 psi max where before I was maintaining a steady 7-8psi. (reading from manifold). Second, even with the check valve, the idle is crap. From some testing, I found that if I let the rpms drop below
2k before depressing the clutch it'll idle fine. If I depress the clutch anywhere above 2k when coming to a stop the car almost stalls and will barely stay running at 500rpms. Third, now when approaching 0 vac/boost the car runs super rich (10-1) and falls on it's face. Fourth, it's super jerky on/off when coming off boost. I experienced none of these issues before the IC install.

There is some good news though too. After making sure all of my clamps were tight, I went ahead and turned up the boost to 9 psi. My god, does it feel amazing, and my afr's are great (11.1-1) at 75%dc.

I figure biting the bullet and recirculating will take care of my idle issues and installing an o2 clamp should take care of the jerkiness i'm getting, but what about going rich at 0 vac? I am adding zero fuel at that point with the emb, I think it's got something to do with that check valve?

Any thing I'm missing that will help? I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

Air coming out of the bov into atmosphere letting out metered air would be my guess. I say pull the bov, plug the hole and see how it goes.

That's an idea. Kind of afraid too with that much psi though, may turn it down to 5-6 for testing.

On another note, I love the way the depowered rack feels!

Here's some more pics sans bumper cover. I was planning on using a small filter for the breather but maybe that's another reason i'm having issues with stalling and idle quality? More testing to follow.:idea:

What a/f are u getting at idle?

Pretty similar to what I was previously, about 15:1 idle, 14.5-15.5 cruise.

Problem solved, thanks to TurboTim:bigtu:

I should have known better than to put the maf so close to the turbulent turbo inlet. It caused all sorts of droopy idle shenanigans so I came up with this setup. Here's a before/after.


The only issue now is for some reason I'm getting what sounds like compressor surge on my upshifts where before it sounded like a normal whooshing bov sound. Me thinks it's the check valve...

If anyone is wondering, total cost from start to finish was about $275 bucks.

Looks great!

If you wanna give away one of those BOV adapters that came with the kit, I'll pay shipping :)

Careful which one, I bought the same kit and one is stainless steel and the other is aluminum (at least it feels that way). I haven't decided if I will use mine or not, but if I don't use it you can have it. Which material are you looking for?

Yeah one is steel, I used the aluminum one.

Thanks! I still need to tidy up a few things, get a breather filter, reinstall the bumper, and tune the hell out of it. Feels so good to drive it again after a long winter of hibernating though.

These are adapters to recirculate the BOV, right? Do they just screw into the side? But I would prefer stainless steel so I don't have to worry about rust, but either one would be fine. I just have a track day on April 10th that I would like to make, but I'm only going to go if I have my BOV recirculated by then. And I'm poor, so whatever is cheap will work lol.

I had mine welded on. They have no threads but I suppose you could create some if needed. If you want it and I can find time to mail it, pm me your addy.

The adapter welded onto the BOV? And awesome, much appreciated, I'll send you a PM now.

No, I couldn't recirc that bov due to the horn on it. These are just to mount the bov to the pipe. I ended up using a bypass valve that you can see in the pics off the cold side with a check valve attached by a radiator hose. It works, so far. Let me take a pic of it, i'll be right back.

Ahh I get it now, I thought you could unscrew the horn and then put that piece on to allow the ability to recirculate the BOV. My BOV looks just like yours, but doesn't have a horn on it, just a hole.

I found this piece on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=380104435489

Is that like the same piece you have, or can I somehow attach this to my BOV? I can find something to weld to the intake pipe to connect the two, but I can't recirculate my BOV right now because there is just a hole, nothing to connect hose to.

Sorry for the thread de-rail, if anyone wants to PM me, feel free.

The horn should just unscrew and leave some threads you could use for recirculating.

It does, I kind of wanted to use the bpv anyway and didn't want to mess with threading the steel and trying to make it work with the aluminum bov.

Spyder- if you want to, you could use a check valve on your bov instead of recirc? Either way, if you still want it, it's yours.

Just a note: I am using that same fleabay BOV. Let me tell you, you will have to drill and tap the holes and bung or it will shoot off. Ask me how I know... I don't know if I mounted it right but I didn't really see any other way...

Hmm, now that I went out and took a look at it, I've got a SSQV AVO blow off valve. I bought it this way and it needs to be recirculated. I don't know if it came with I horn (I doubt it), so I don't think there is any threads in the hole. It's a nice BOV, but I need to recirculate it so I'm not bogging inbetween shifts and almost stalling out at stoplights. How does a check valve work and how would I even hook that up when there is nothing protruding from the hole?

I'm not a pro with bov's but I thought the sequential ones had a check valve built in?

So because the MAF was so close to the turbo inlet, it caused the weird idle's and what not? Im turboing my miata next month after I get out of school and just want to make sure I space them far enough so I dont get the problem you had

Not so much just sitting idling, it was almost stalling when coming off rev. Like in normal city driving when approaching a stop light and you depress the clutch, the revs would drop and couldn't stabilize at 1k. It would drop to 500rpm and try to steady itself but could not.

Mass air flow sensors can read airflow both ways and mine was so close to the inlet I think it was picking up flow from the compressor wheel when the throttle body suddenly slammed shut. It seemed to be worse if I depressed the clutch above 2k rpms.

All is fine now that I added that little 45* bend.

Ok, all this talk of bov's got me curious to try and mount this sucker. With a lot of spring cutting and a bit of luck, I got it to work great vta!

It's really not that loud and looks alot better then that bpv in the engine bay.

That check valve was the cause of my surging, it's just too small a hole to vent all that boost!:drool:

I finally reinstalled the bumper too, don't mind the crooked pics, I've been drinking. :friday:

Looks great, what custom work did you have to do to make the new BOV fit? And what's the 3rd pic?

It's the lowes check valve that I just returned. That was the hole that all the pressure had to escape from and due to it's restrictive size, I was getting all sorts of surging.

With the bov, I was experiencing the same surging at first until I realized the stock spring was way to strong for the vac on my motor at idle. I had to cut a good inch off of it to get rid of the surge. Do a half a coil at a time and retest it until the surging goes away. When it's barely noticable, cut about a 1/4 coil off. If you cut too much and the idle gets jumpy, add a washer or two and retest.

The only issue I've yet to deal with is the rich condition nearing 0 vac/boost, but I was experiencing that with the bpv/check valve too. Thinking a o2 clamp will help out big time with that.

Honestly I don't see a problem running vta with the NB maf.

Added a fancy blue chrome crankcase breather too. bling bling! ;)

Sorry to revive this a month later, but what made you go with 2.25" and not 2.5"? Curious as I'm looking at upgrade options.

Did some research and that seemed to be the most common. Plus I think its easier to run the smaller piping behind the headlight.