A few questions about boost control, fuel managment
 

This is going to be a bit of a read here, but please your input is needed.

I am going to turbo my 1994 1.8l, in a couple of months.
its got a 99 head, intake, TB ,sensors,etc...Basically an NB motor with an NA block but it was rebuilt with new rods and pistons.

- Ive got the Megasquirt gen 1 pnp, have a decent tune, got my head wrapped around the tuning part pretty well.
-AEM linear wideband o2, vaccum/boost gauge.
-Have a WALBRO 190 fuel pump, and an Adjustable Fuel regulator, probably will get some bigger injectors soon as well which brings me to my next point which is a huge factor in my build.
I am only going for like 5-7PSI, this is going to be a quick daily driver, not tracked all, yet.

So then for a parts list:
BEGI 1.8l cast/log manifold
T3 compressor from oh don't you love it. ebay. it has an internal waste gate
BEGI downpipe, or used one that i saw today from some guy.
Intercooler from ebay, and piping and misc elbows and clamps
Piecing together oil return, going to go with sandwich plate and drilling oil pan. with AN fittings blah blah

now here is were i am getting mixed up. what type of boost management and fuel management do i need FOR 5-7 psi

Do i need a waste gate if i have an internal waste gate, or a boost controller, what other smaller accessories do i need? just trying to get a more complete parts list but this shit is happening soon this aint some wish list.

Ok, JUST STOP. STOP RIGHT NOW.

I'm going to save you some pain and some abuse so listen up: I know you are excited, but the questions you are asking lead me to believe you do not have a firm grasp on what you are getting yourself into. Stop buying parts and start reading. I would recommend you buy this book and read it cover to cover:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394151186

After you have read it once, read it again. If you have questions about parts, words or concepts covered in the book, search in google and read some more. Read more here on MiataTurbo. Read some build threads for people who are doing the same thing you are looking to do.

Once you feel you have a firm grasp on the concepts, come back here and read your post again.

links to build threads were people are going for 5-7 psi and already have a mildly built motor, fuel management, and a few boost related accessories? they also know how to tune VE tables, afrs and spark table to make the car run decent on there megasquirt
they have a budget of 1.5k and just daily drive but want more power?
also yea im getting an ebay compressor so what. ive seen they do just fine at lower psi and stock injectors as well. just really need to know about waste gates and boost control

If you can push 5-7psi, you can push 10-12psi. Nobody on here is doing 5-7psi on a "mildly built motor" because we have testosterone levels higher than that of an 80 year old habitual steroid user.


Nothing wrong with an Ebay turbo.

Lots wrong with stock injectors.

You're going to blow your shit up.

Wastegates and boost control is easy. Run wastegate for your lowest boost level. Boost control to go up from there. Done.

If the turbo has an internal wastegate, you don't need an external wastegate.

Sell the unnecessary FPR and buy some larger injectors. Be sure to get ones that fit and are high impedance.

If you already have a megasquirt there is no reason to run stock injectors when you can get used (tested) 460cc injectors all day long for $150/set. Supposedly there are even people testing stock mustang ev14 injectors somewhere here that should be cheap.

I have no links to anyone running 5-7psi handy because nobody (here) does it. Why restrict yourself to the power that stock injectors can handle when everything (else) you have can handle at least 240hp. Not saying you can't do it but it is a cheap upgrade that will bring you more power AND a safety margin. By new rods and pistons do you mean forged rods or stock rods that are new?

Not sure the previous operator had the bottom end rebuilt, he told me he had manley racing rods and CP pistons, he was going to turbo the car, he said it is low compression built for boost

If that is the case you are LUCKY man. IF this is truly the case the engine is safe for over 400hp with a good tune. (higher actually, but at least 400hp).

Obviously you might have to do coolant re-route at some point and possibly a boundary engineering oil pump, but not necessarily for a street car.

Eh I wouldn't want to go over 300 on a stock oil pump and harmonic damper.

^ Nuge is probably right. But at least the harmonic can be changed without pulling the engine.

Bah. Built motor. Don't care. Live a little.