Finally my own build thread
 

After 4 months of prep I started the turbo install last weekend. Many forum members will notice parts that they were going to throw out, but sold to me instead :).

Started by removing the stock manifold and exhaust system. The previous owner decided he would weld the entire exhaust into one piece, so it took a fair amount of wiggling and twisting to remove.

2.25" catback exhaust installed:

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/4656/dsc00428to5.jpg



Got the ETD manifold repaired over the week (it had a crack due to relief cuts), and I hogged out all the stud holes so it has space to expand when hot.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6787/dsc00423iz3.jpg



Everything is just mocked up so I can figure out the charge pipe routing. Not that I will use the ridiculous Greddy ? pipe in its present form:

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1/dsc00422gh3.jpg



Cold side is pretty much figured out:

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/8034/dsc00425hg6.jpg



The pipes don't hang that much below the car:

http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/156/dsc00427pd0.jpg


Green wire indicates the radiator position. The intercooler brackets will need some cutting. Here the intercooler is just kept on the ground (working alone, that too in an apartment parking lot, sucks):

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/6563/dsc00424kt4.jpg


Boost gauge and the innocuous megasquirt serial comm plug (time to play spot-the-DB9 ;)):

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/3196/dsc00431qi0.jpg


I still need to mount the wastegate actuator. Its just sitting on one hole. Think it'll be ok on one bolt?

Ask ben :giggle: I believe his is mounted on one hole.

Keep the updates coming. Love the DIY builds

Nice exhaust and boost gauge. :bigtu: Looks like its coming along well. Keep the pics coming.
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Kool. What intercooler is that? I thought mine was small.

stock Greddy kits, and therefore most of us Greddy folk, only have one bolt securing the WGA to the compressor.

First gen MX6/Probe GT. Its big enough for my needs. If IAT's go too high I will switch to something more substantial like an Evo intercooler.

Are you cheating by using an audio jack to DB9 ala Microsquirt?

If so, then it is the audio connector in the plate.

We ran microsquirt on the FSAE car this year, otherwise I would have been in the dark.

Met Bruce Bowling at competition actually.

Looks like a fun build, can't wait to get my shit started.

Yeah its the stereo plug.

Progress is really slow due to my schedule. I hope to finish plumbing the intercooler this week. I just found out my drill takes a max of 3/8" bits, need to return it and buy a 1/2" one. Gotta love harbor freight's extended warranty.

props for being a driveway/carport/parking lot builder man..

I barely get by in my garage, dont think I'd even attempt 1/2 this stuff otherwise...

GL!

I work in a car port with like a 50ft extension cord from my house. My neighbors love me!!!

Can someone please educate me with regards to relief cuts? I have read lots of conflicting posts on the subject. People say that the Greddy manifolds MUST have relief cuts or they will crack. Pipefather has just had his ETD repaired as it cracked BECAUSE of relief cuts and by the looks of the pictures he has welded the cuts up. I may be being very dense but this is confusing the hell out of me :P

Thanks

Tom

Intercooler mounted:

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/9781/dsc00432vs9.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2992/dsc00433kz7.jpg

http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/5219/dsc00434gq9.jpg


I ended up removing nearly 15" of the original jim b pipes.

looks nice so far, i cant wait to be starting my build

Good progress......
 

Oil pan drilled and tapped. Really, I dont know what the big deal is about this. It took me all of 15 minutes to do the actual work. Of course, I took off the passenger side wheel and got good access to the area with the drill held horizontal.

I started with a pilot drill bit about as big as the 9/16" bit's web diameter. That made it easier to center the large bit and prevented walking. I was able to get an accurate round hole without any swearing or struggling. I used PTFE lubricant on the drill which also contained all the drill swarf. It made tapping a heck of a lot easier too.


http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/23/dsc00452dx9.jpg


This is the fitting I used. It is 3/8" NPT to 5/8" barb, along with a locknut. I used fuel/oil resistant pipe thread sealant, and there was no need for any jb weld as the subsequent flushing operation showed no leaks.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8720/dsc00450dj5.jpg

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/5921/dsc00448cv0.jpg


I sanded and painted the manifold with BBQ spray paint. Looking good now. Don't know for how long it'll stay on though:

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/9650/dsc00457sn8.jpg

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/464/dsc00460dy4.jpg


The intercooler as seen from the outside of the car:

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/8959/dsc00456hv7.jpg


Yeah, I know :cool: You can't quite see it.

Finally, pics of the car as it sits today:

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/676/dsc00461vs2.jpg

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2122/dsc00429ue5.jpg

Any ideas on quick and dirty ways of plumbing the intake side of the compressor?

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/817/dsc00462mn7.jpg


The coupler coming off the compressor is 2.5" ID and necessary for the bypass valve return line. The AFM and greddy stock foam filter is what I have.

Is the corrugated hose you get at home depot/hardware store a good solution?

the flex hose will work temporarily, PRE-COMPRESSOR ONLY! obviously it will expand massively after the turbo, but I see you already have metal pipes there already.

I put my afm with a fairly flat filter straight off the turbo, but didn't have the recirculating pipe (VTA) and a greddy turbo+manifold, so I dunno how much farther forward/backward yours fits

I used exhaust paint on my manifold, it turns greyish, but its lasted a month or two including a track day.

props from me too for doing this in a parking lot!

thanks.

i actually tried using the stock greddy intake U-pipe, but the AFM sits at the wrong angle with that, due to the turbo being farther forward and lower.

Wait. Thou hast a Megasquirt, no?

Be gone the AFM!

Or is it there to comply with a series rule? If that be the case, could you not put the AFM directly on the compressor inlet, or on a short 90? Doesn't really matter the mounting angle if it's not being used. A clever person might even open it up and loosen the spring a few dozen turns.

Great progress man, but why did you paint the flanges? I forsee leakage there.

Actually I think that's what I will end up doing. The reason I want to retain it is because the filter mounts to it, and the insides are gutted like so:

http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/3913/dsc00344lr2.jpg

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4...0352tq8.th.jpg

I'll probably mount all the electronics into a hobby box, and begone with the AFM.

Even with a gasket?