First time turboing! $4500 with a 250whp goal.....Achievable?
01-13-2012, 01:11 PM
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First time turboing! $4500 with a 250whp goal.....Achievable?
Whats up guys, I have recently had some problems out of my car and i have came to the conclusion to over haul it. Heres some backround info on my car.
It is a 96 M edition, 67,000 miles on it. just replaced the head gasket, timing belt, acc belts, valves, seats, and the head was milled. well the guy that assembled it put autolite plugs in it and the one in the #4 cyl was faulty, and the electrode broke off in my cylender. now i am having nothing but problems. So i am going to set aside atleast 800 a month until this summer and do what i can to her (I will probably be able to put a little more than 800 in but this is worst case scenario). I am starting off with 500 in my miata fund and am not touching any of the money until the build.
My car has a jrsc on it now it is stock other than that, and the above stated tune up. I think 250whp is a reasonable goal for my price range, i just would like some input on how to get there!
(I already plan on boreing it .060 over so i know my walls arnt dammaged from the faulty plug)
My list so far:
.060 over forged pistons+machine work $1000
H beam rods $330
Megasquirt $500
tune by Dkgoodrich $400
So what turbo kit, powertrain, etc. will get me there on my budget?
It is a 96 M edition, 67,000 miles on it. just replaced the head gasket, timing belt, acc belts, valves, seats, and the head was milled. well the guy that assembled it put autolite plugs in it and the one in the #4 cyl was faulty, and the electrode broke off in my cylender. now i am having nothing but problems. So i am going to set aside atleast 800 a month until this summer and do what i can to her (I will probably be able to put a little more than 800 in but this is worst case scenario). I am starting off with 500 in my miata fund and am not touching any of the money until the build.
My car has a jrsc on it now it is stock other than that, and the above stated tune up. I think 250whp is a reasonable goal for my price range, i just would like some input on how to get there!
(I already plan on boreing it .060 over so i know my walls arnt dammaged from the faulty plug)
My list so far:
.060 over forged pistons+machine work $1000
H beam rods $330
Megasquirt $500
tune by Dkgoodrich $400
So what turbo kit, powertrain, etc. will get me there on my budget?
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01-13-2012, 01:15 PM
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FM1 clutch will be $350
6 Speed will be $600-900
After you add in clutch and 6 speed that will leave a little less then 2 grand for the actual turbo setup. It will be doable, but will take a lot of time and searching for good deals on used parts.
6 Speed will be $600-900
After you add in clutch and 6 speed that will leave a little less then 2 grand for the actual turbo setup. It will be doable, but will take a lot of time and searching for good deals on used parts.
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01-13-2012, 01:17 PM
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wait...250rwhp?
Your list is currently $1730 off point.
If you were going for 350rwhp, then it would only be $400 off the mark.
edit: oh i didnt read, still I've ingested much worse things than an eletrode from a spark plug...it wouldn't bother me in the slightest so long as compression/leak was good.
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01-13-2012, 01:20 PM
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Your the second person to tell me a six speed would be a smart decision, but dont alot of guys run five speeds around those numbers?
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01-13-2012, 01:23 PM
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wait...250rwhp?
Your list is currently $1730 off point.
If you were going for 350rwhp, then it would only be $400 off the mark.
edit: oh i didnt read, still I've ingested much worse things than an eletrode from a spark plug...it wouldn't bother me in the slightest so long as compression/leak was good.
Your list is currently $1730 off point.
If you were going for 350rwhp, then it would only be $400 off the mark.
edit: oh i didnt read, still I've ingested much worse things than an eletrode from a spark plug...it wouldn't bother me in the slightest so long as compression/leak was good.
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01-13-2012, 01:27 PM
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Well I will be going with a stage 2 ky clutch and pressure plate, i have a buddy that is sponsered by them and he can get that set up for me for $200 give or take. He has been running a stage 3 ky for a while now and everything is working well (495 fwhp slowbolt ss)
Your the second person to tell me a six speed would be a smart decision, but dont alot of guys run five speeds around those numbers?
Your the second person to tell me a six speed would be a smart decision, but dont alot of guys run five speeds around those numbers?
A lot of people do run 5 speeds at those power levels, a lot of those same people have also put in more then a single 5 speed at those levels. While a 5 speed might last for a while, it will eventually go. Upgrading to a 6 speed while the engine is out is just a good idea to make sure you don't have to do the work again later.
Honestly with the built bottom end you will be sometime in the future go above the 250hp and thats when a 6 speed will be nice.
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01-13-2012, 01:32 PM
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What is a KY clutch? I have tried out a ton of different clutch for the Miatas ranging from the cheapest of the cheap to just about the most expensive you can get. There are only 3 clutch manufactures I will honestly suggest for anyone who needs a clutch for a miata. They are the FM clutches, the 949 Racing Twin Disk, and ACT.
A lot of people do run 5 speeds at those power levels, a lot of those same people have also put in more then a single 5 speed at those levels. While a 5 speed might last for a while, it will eventually go. Upgrading to a 6 speed while the engine is out is just a good idea to make sure you don't have to do the work again later.
A lot of people do run 5 speeds at those power levels, a lot of those same people have also put in more then a single 5 speed at those levels. While a 5 speed might last for a while, it will eventually go. Upgrading to a 6 speed while the engine is out is just a good idea to make sure you don't have to do the work again later.
But I think I will do the six speed. I'm starting to notcie that my "budget" is shrinking lol. This is making me consider doing more of an engine build and adding the turbo later on.
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this thread fails to deliver.
01-13-2012, 01:41 PM
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I am in Kentucky, and its a company here. I know it has all the ingrediants to sound like a sketchy clutch, but everyone around here runs them in all the imports, so il give it a try in the miata and give some feedback on here with how it does!
But I think I will do the six speed. I'm starting to notcie that my "budget" is shrinking lol. This is making me consider doing more of an engine build and adding the turbo later on.
But I think I will do the six speed. I'm starting to notcie that my "budget" is shrinking lol. This is making me consider doing more of an engine build and adding the turbo later on.
The budget you have is a great budget to build a drive train that will handle something like 300-500hp. After that is done then save up and go with the turbo.
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01-13-2012, 01:54 PM
#16
Sounds to me like your over engineering this. 250whp is not that much, put a clutch in and a turbo kit on with a good ecu and you should not need any of the other parts you and other people have listed. A stock miata motor will hold 250ft-lbs and the 5 speed can hold about the same. If you want to make 400whp go ahead and build the block and put in the 6 speed and all that good stuff, but for 250whp dont over complicate things. And .20 over should clean up any damage an electrode could cause, in your case its probably a bent valve because an electrode is not going to make its way through a piston.
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01-13-2012, 02:01 PM
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Sounds to me like your over engineering this. 250whp is not that much, put a clutch in and a turbo kit on with a good ecu and you should not need any of the other parts you and other people have listed. A stock miata motor will hold 250ft-lbs and the 5 speed can hold about the same. If you want to make 400whp go ahead and build the block and put in the 6 speed and all that good stuff, but for 250whp dont over complicate things. And .20 over should clean up any damage an electrode could cause, in your case its probably a bent valve because an electrode is not going to make its way through a piston.
But you dont think the electrode scarred up the walls?
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01-13-2012, 02:29 PM
#18
Don't forget fuel injectors to support that HP. The stock ones (assuming yours are stock) won't have the capacity.
Also, skip (or at least reduce) the $500 tune. You'll learn a lot more about your car and the MS if you tackle the street tuning yourself.
Start off with the MSPNP base tune for fuel and spark. Uber conservative.
For fuel tuning, we have GREAT tools. Either use TunerStudio's auto-tune or use the VE Analyzer tool in MegaLogViewer (both by Phil Tobin -- make sure you register -- he DESERVES our support). That will produce a far better fuel tune than you can get at a dyno. I personally like and use VE Analyzer.
Tuning spark is the only area where I would consider going to a tuner, only because of the steady-state capability that allows you to find MBT. However, if you show up with a well-sorted car (i.e., fuel table nailed and spark table safe), you can really cut down your dyno expense. There are good threads here covering subjects such as spark maps, building det cans, and even dyno tuning. If you read through these, you're likely to know a lot more than your tuner by the time you get there (be tactful, just use the knowledge to get your money's worth).
I'm also playing with log analysis software to see if I can efficiently identify MBT with recorded street pulls. If that pans out, the only reason to go to a dyno would be for bragging rights -- dyno day would suffice for that.
Also, skip (or at least reduce) the $500 tune. You'll learn a lot more about your car and the MS if you tackle the street tuning yourself.
Start off with the MSPNP base tune for fuel and spark. Uber conservative.
For fuel tuning, we have GREAT tools. Either use TunerStudio's auto-tune or use the VE Analyzer tool in MegaLogViewer (both by Phil Tobin -- make sure you register -- he DESERVES our support). That will produce a far better fuel tune than you can get at a dyno. I personally like and use VE Analyzer.
Tuning spark is the only area where I would consider going to a tuner, only because of the steady-state capability that allows you to find MBT. However, if you show up with a well-sorted car (i.e., fuel table nailed and spark table safe), you can really cut down your dyno expense. There are good threads here covering subjects such as spark maps, building det cans, and even dyno tuning. If you read through these, you're likely to know a lot more than your tuner by the time you get there (be tactful, just use the knowledge to get your money's worth).
I'm also playing with log analysis software to see if I can efficiently identify MBT with recorded street pulls. If that pans out, the only reason to go to a dyno would be for bragging rights -- dyno day would suffice for that.
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01-13-2012, 02:47 PM
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Don't forget fuel injectors to support that HP. The stock ones (assuming yours are stock) won't have the capacity.
Also, skip (or at least reduce) the $500 tune. You'll learn a lot more about your car and the MS if you tackle the street tuning yourself.
Start off with the MSPNP base tune for fuel and spark. Uber conservative.
For fuel tuning, we have GREAT tools. Either use TunerStudio's auto-tune or use the VE Analyzer tool in MegaLogViewer (both by Phil Tobin -- make sure you register -- he DESERVES our support). That will produce a far better fuel tune than you can get at a dyno. I personally like and use VE Analyzer.
Tuning spark is the only area where I would consider going to a tuner, only because of the steady-state capability that allows you to find MBT. However, if you show up with a well-sorted car (i.e., fuel table nailed and spark table safe), you can really cut down your dyno expense. There are good threads here covering subjects such as spark maps, building det cans, and even dyno tuning. If you read through these, you're likely to know a lot more than your tuner by the time you get there (be tactful, just use the knowledge to get your money's worth).
I'm also playing with log analysis software to see if I can efficiently identify MBT with recorded street pulls. If that pans out, the only reason to go to a dyno would be for bragging rights -- dyno day would suffice for that.
Also, skip (or at least reduce) the $500 tune. You'll learn a lot more about your car and the MS if you tackle the street tuning yourself.
Start off with the MSPNP base tune for fuel and spark. Uber conservative.
For fuel tuning, we have GREAT tools. Either use TunerStudio's auto-tune or use the VE Analyzer tool in MegaLogViewer (both by Phil Tobin -- make sure you register -- he DESERVES our support). That will produce a far better fuel tune than you can get at a dyno. I personally like and use VE Analyzer.
Tuning spark is the only area where I would consider going to a tuner, only because of the steady-state capability that allows you to find MBT. However, if you show up with a well-sorted car (i.e., fuel table nailed and spark table safe), you can really cut down your dyno expense. There are good threads here covering subjects such as spark maps, building det cans, and even dyno tuning. If you read through these, you're likely to know a lot more than your tuner by the time you get there (be tactful, just use the knowledge to get your money's worth).
I'm also playing with log analysis software to see if I can efficiently identify MBT with recorded street pulls. If that pans out, the only reason to go to a dyno would be for bragging rights -- dyno day would suffice for that.
I would be willing to sacrifice a few dozen horses to have a reliable "done right" car for my budget. I am going to begin removing my engine asap and take it to the machine shop to get checked out. and if the walls and pistons are fine, I will do stock bore forged pistons and rods and purchase the FM turbo kit with no electronics and still have around $1000 for tuning and a clutch.
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