Fleabay manifold for cheap turbo setup.
So, after driving my car at 8psi, a friend of mine wants to bring his 1.6 to 150hp. He is looking to do this as cheaply as possible. Bandaids ftw. He can get a t3 from a 300zx for cheap and he wants to go with that. What do you guys think of this manifold? I dont really see how you could go wrong but who knows?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-93...spagenameZWDVW |
That manifold looks awesome, i've never seen it till now. I would do relief cuts just in case, I think thats why my HKS cracked.
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damn! i wish that was out like a month ago, i would have bought it in a second.
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me too dammit. Looks like a copy of the HKS, if not the HKS itself being closed out for cheap.
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Actually looks pretty good, I was going to come in here to flame, but nevermind.
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hmm... I was about to spend some money, but after seeing this, I think I might just have to try it. I can get some water injection or something with the money I save.
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Originally Posted by coastertrav
(Post 247240)
Actually looks pretty good, I was going to come in here to flame, but nevermind.
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the only bad thing is it's got no wastegate flange
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That center hole for the stud looks a bit tight. Maybe if a proper sized allen head bolt and a washer was used it'd help things.
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i know the honda guys love the ebay cast manis. that looks like the same layout as the JGS i built for my car. if only it was for an external gate i would buy one just as a spare.
EDIT: i just emailed them to see if you can get one to accept an external gate |
If they had a 1.8 I'd try it.
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Originally Posted by bryantaylor
(Post 247307)
the only bad thing is it's got no wastegate flange
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just tell him to find a used greddy for like 5 to 7 hundred, cheap easy power....
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Been out for awhile now though xs power, just never advertised on ebay.
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Originally Posted by jobambo
(Post 247486)
Been out for awhile now though xs power, just never advertised on ebay.
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I would anticipate some amount of trouble keeping the thing bolted to the head due to the lack of machined facing where the nuts or bolt heads/washers will seat. The cast iron isn't flat. Nothing a machine shop couldn't do, but getting the center bolt location could be tough. Maybe you could figure out something with locking header bolts like the domestic guys use. Or safety wire.
Also, a T3 or bigger on a 1.6 would suxx. I found a version of the Disco Potato that has internal wastegate and T3 flange. So that would work. Or you'd need to figure out an adapter flange to go from T3 to T25. Here's one on Ebay, but I think the Au$ makes this more than the manifold: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/T3-T28-T25-GT...QQcmdZViewItem This almost certainly won't work: http://app.infopia.com/Shop/Control/...d/0/rid/126335 Here's the ultimate ghetto approach from the Hon-duh world that would probably work just fine: http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_pr...ech/index.html |
Ok, somebody help me out here. Most of these weird eBay ads I can comprehend, but what's with the picture of the chick in the motocross helmet, the Mexican flag, and the "I'LOVEIL TACO TACO" business? Are we to understand that MDM is the new JDM?
Other than that, yeah... I came in here to flame, but for $160 that manifold looks like a good buy. Have a machinist grind flat the bolt surfaces and figure out how to use a cap screw or something on that middle hole, and it'd probably work just fine. |
someone earlier mentioned the "xs power" manifold. what are the comments on this? its a t25 flange and is also cast.
http://xs-power.com/mazda-turbo-manifolds-4.htm |
From the pic, the XS mani looks exactly like the Greddy.
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my thoughts exactly. anyone have experience with them?
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I've been ignoring this thread due to the title, but when I saw how many responded i had to check it out myself, and yes, I was gonna flame on you...but...hmmmmmm....not so bad!
I would not use that gasket though, it looks like ass, hustlers ass! I also see an easy way it could get modded to fit an EWG...this looks like a great option for a cheap solution. One thing I forsee as a potential problem would be fitment issues with all the bolt holes lining up. Worst case scenario, you take it to machine shop and have them bore all the holes over to make it fit, have them also grind down the mating surfaces and maje relief cuts and you are good to go. If you want EWG, have machine shop cut out a decent sized hole on backside of where the turbo flange is and weld a wastegate flange in place and you are good to go, all still for under $200 I'd say. |
Given the choice between the one pictured on the TurboXS site and the one on the eBay ad, it's a tough call.
The TurboXS manifold, like the Greddy, appears to place the turbine inlet flange roughly in line with the #3 exhaust port, and perfectly horizontal. This causes the turbo to sit quite high up and rather far back in the engine compartment. It makes designing and fitting downpipes a pain in the balls, and places the downpipe nearly in direct contact with the brake system. The eBay manifold appears to place the turbo roughly opposite the #2 port, and at an appreciable angle. It looks to me like a cast-iron version of the JGS log manifold. Placing the turbo lower down and further forward will make a lot of things easier from a mechanical fitment standpoint. On the other hand, the log manifold is, well... It's a log manifold. Meaning that the exhaust pulses coming out of #4 are pointed straight at #1 (rather than at the turbine) and vise versa. The TurboXS / Greddy design would appear to have marginally superior flow characteristics. It's still a long way from a directed pulse design (like the ETD Shorty) But at least it's not literally a straight line from one exhaust port into the other. I'd probably pick the eBay one. The fact that it places the turbo in a much more desirable location outweighs the tiny flow advantage that I only speculate the other may give. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 247666)
The TurboXS manifold, like the Greddy, appears to place the turbine inlet flange roughly in line with the #3 exhaust port, and perfectly horizontal. This causes the turbo to sit quite high up and rather far back in the engine compartment. It makes designing and fitting downpipes a pain in the balls, and places the downpipe nearly in direct contact with the brake system.
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Originally Posted by The_Pipefather
(Post 247678)
Makes one think why Greddy did this in the first place. I would imagine that their first priority during turbo placement was to make it fit the stock intake parts via that badly designed "?" pipe. And also to negate any chances of oil not returning to the high-placed location on the other side of the block.
As far as the oil drain, I still can't fathom that anyone actually uses that thing. I just can't see how you'd run that piece of fat-ass hose all the way around the engine block (essentially 270° of bend) without kinking it, without it rubbing against something like the pulleys or belts and cutting in half, etc. It's just such a horrible, awful design. |
When I went to that autocross a guy had just bought a 91 with a greddy. Didn't tell me how much he paid for the car but he said the guy showed him invoices for over $4500 for the basic greddy kit with vortec and no IC setup with a single FM boost gauge. He was using the greddy drain routed around the front, it had an immediate uphill over the PS lines. I laughed and told him he better fix that quick.
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Originally Posted by The_Pipefather
(Post 247678)
Makes one think why Greddy did this in the first place. I would imagine that their first priority during turbo placement was to make it fit the stock intake parts via that badly designed "?" pipe.
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If they allow a discounted group buy and pick up I can ship them from work for probably like 10 dollars a manifold (big bussiness fedex discount:)). Plus the vendor is in my neighboring city so it probably would only take me like 10 minutes to go and pick them up.
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they are dumb fucks, thats for sure. i got a response to my question about if they offer any to accept an external wastegate and this is what i got in return
what do you mean? - ilovetacotaco |
Try asking "¿Usted vende un múltiple para el Mazda MX5 que acepte una compuerta de descarga externa?" instead. :D
My gut feeling is that they probably don't. Abe and I were having a conversation along these lines a few days ago, and one theory that was presented would be to drill and tap a hole in the bottom to accept an NPT-threaded black iron pipe. I have no idea whether or not that would actually work, but it's definitely in the DIY spirit and for $160 it's not an expensive test. |
Here we have someone who is finally selling an (apparently) decent manifold for the Miata for less than $200, and we are debating on whether it will take an external wastegate. Why in the hell would anyone buying this manifold want one? Its not like anything south of 250 hp demands one anyway.
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everyone knows you can mod it to accept a external gate. it would just be nice to have it some with one.
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Originally Posted by SolarYellow510
(Post 247585)
Also, a T3 or bigger on a 1.6 would suxx. I found a version of the Disco Potato that has internal wastegate and T3 flange. So that would work. Or you'd need to figure out an adapter flange to go from T3 to T25.
Um, alright. I came home and looked at this thread to see if there was anything new. Hey solar. DO SOME FUCKING RESEARCH. there are plenty of people using t3s on 1.6 miatas. I'm about to be one of them. Its not that you offended me or anything, but really, when I came to this site, I did not know shit. I kept my mouth shut about these things that i did not know shit about, until I at least had some idea of what I was talking about:) |
Not they I need one but - $29.95 shipping to US - $139.95 shipping to Canada? WTF
edit Nevermind - Seller's payment instructions says $79.95 to Canada. |
Originally Posted by Zarniwoop42
(Post 248373)
Its not that you offended me or anything, but really, when I came to this site, I did not know shit. I kept my mouth shut about these things that i did not know shit about, until I at least had some idea of what I was talking about:)
84-87 300ZX had a T3 on a 3.0L. 88-89 had a T25 and higher compression. The only reason to do that would be to combat lag. Z32s had a pair of turbos with T2 compressors and T25 exhaust turbines for a 3.0L. That car made 300 hp, so putting one of its turbos on a 1.6 Miata should work out pretty nice. I guess if a really laggy setup that only makes ~150 hp is okay, then you're right, use the 25-year-old technology T3. But against cars I measure by, that suxx. |
Originally Posted by wes65
(Post 247205)
So, after driving my car at 8psi, a friend of mine wants to bring his 1.6 to 150hp. He is looking to do this as cheaply as possible. Bandaids ftw. He can get a t3 from a 300zx for cheap and he wants to go with that. What do you guys think of this manifold? I dont really see how you could go wrong but who knows?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-93...spagenameZWDVW Stock 300zx turbos are T25s. |
Originally Posted by messiahx
(Post 248423)
Stock 300zx turbos are T25s.
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
(Post 248423)
The 1984 to 1987 turbo models featured a Garrett T3 turbocharger with a 7.8:1 compression ratio
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"NOTE: All of turbo parts and accessories do need to modification in order to fits perfectly."
Ugh...when will foreign e-bay sellers learn to use someone who speaks proper English to translate their descriptions for them. Every time I read something like that I want to punch myself in the face. I could make soo much fcking money editing ebay posts for sellers so that they actually say what they intend... |
Originally Posted by SolarYellow510
(Post 248418)
You must be right. I no longer know anything about cars or turbos, because I just created a new account on miataturbo.net. Time to start over. Dang, that's a lot of years reading, hanging out with engineers at Garrett, driving and dynoing many, many modified cars and building some of my own, all lost by registering here. Oh, well. At least on the good side, I should be able to learn everything I need to know shortly, all from this forum.
84-87 300ZX had a T3 on a 3.0L. 88-89 had a T25 and higher compression. The only reason to do that would be to combat lag. Z32s had a pair of turbos with T2 compressors and T25 exhaust turbines for a 3.0L. That car made 300 hp, so putting one of its turbos on a 1.6 Miata should work out pretty nice. I guess if a really laggy setup that only makes ~150 hp is okay, then you're right, use the 25-year-old technology T3. But against cars I measure by, that suxx. Well shit. You are obviosly the guru of turbo technology. Talk to anyone on this forum that is using a T3. It does not seem like any of them have a, "really laggy setup that only makes ~150 hp" While they might have more lag than a t25, they are probably making more hp with less psi(with a bit of reading, here, or in many other places, that FACT is easy to find)There are many different kinds of T3s out there, and some of them are ideal for a tubo miata. Also, 300zx?, wtf do I care about your 300zx's? I dont know anything about which particular t3 is on there, and i could give a shit about the twin t25s, or t2s or whatever the hell they are. Edit: I guess If im going to stay within the bounds of this thread, yeah, a t3 at 150hp would suck compared to a t25 at 150hp. But if you are going to say that a t3 is just a bad turbo for miatas in general, you need to update some of that expanse of knowledge that you have been working on over the years, with all those guys at garrett, and all those builds you have been involved with. |
the whole idea with the t3 is that it is cheap.
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