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-   DIY Turbo Discussion (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/)
-   -   FMU Help (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/fmu-help-51340/)

K-Town Powder Coating 09-05-2010 05:32 PM

FMU Help
 
I have built a turbo Locost with a 1990 1.6 Miata motor with a custom turbo setup.
The setup is a DSM T25 turbo running 8-10 psi tan top 1.8L injectors and a Walbro 190 external pump. I am also running MSD timing control unit and Flying Miata O2 modifier. The car is running the following FMU that I think mighth have failed.
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/1...mounted040.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/3...mounted043.jpg


The car runs great and pulls hard until you let off the gas to go around a corner in an autocross and then it bogs down big time. No matter what adjustments I do to the FMU nothing seems to change. Before you ask no I do not have a wideband I was planning on borrowing my buddies this weekend but he has misplaced the sensor.

How can I test the FMU?
Anyone know what brand the FMU is?
If I was going to replace the FMU with a vortec band what ratio would I want?
12:1? 10:1?

Thanks Mike

saedrin 09-05-2010 06:22 PM

What fuel tank are you using? Cutting while cornering sounds suspiciously like fuel starvation at the tank, the FMU shouldn't be affected by cornering forces.

K-Town Powder Coating 09-05-2010 06:34 PM

I am running a foam filled fuel cell. The corner force is not the problem as much as I think it's the lifting off the gas quickly after being at WOT to take the corner.

olderguy 09-05-2010 06:48 PM

I don't see a control line to the FMU and suspect it is a constant pressure unit. What happens if you go WOT around the same speed in a straight line and lift then accelerate?

If one of the O2 clamp lines breaks contact on a corner and you try to accelerate under 4000 rpm you can also bog rich.

K-Town Powder Coating 09-05-2010 07:01 PM

Your right hte lines are not hooked up in that picture. The vaccume line is coming from the manifold and there is a 4" line with a check valve on the needle valve.

curly 09-05-2010 08:00 PM

T'eed off the stock FPR vacuum line, correct?

K-Town Powder Coating 09-05-2010 08:33 PM

No it from one on after the throttle body.

I just read this.....

Ideally you want to be able to run larger injectors at a lower fuel pressure, however, without additional fuel management this is not possible. The stock ECU has some wiggle room to run a larger injector, it usually requires tuning with the AFM to idle. The 1.6 ECU should be able to idle up to 330cc injectors. However it will require tweaking the AFM idle-mixture settings and spring tension.



Anyone know how to do this AFM tweak? I have an extra AFM

olderguy 09-05-2010 09:35 PM

You don't need to tweak it for tan tops, but if the brushes are not making good contact, the AFM can put out no signal and cause rich bogging also.

If you want to go with larger injectors, you can open the black plastic top and tighten the spring slightly. On a 20 year old AFM it would be a good idea to tighten the brush against the contact also.

lordrigamus 09-06-2010 02:05 AM

This may help a little.

http://www.miata.net/solo/airflowmtr.html

Here's a bit of discussion on it also.

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/afm-adjustments-spring-vs-screw-13182/

K-Town Powder Coating 09-06-2010 06:33 AM

Do you think with running 9psi that is intercooled and has the timing retarded by the MSD system I can get away with running the stock injectors?

olderguy 09-06-2010 08:12 AM


Originally Posted by K-Town Powder Coating (Post 626246)
Do you think with running 9psi that is intercooled and has the timing retarded by the MSD system I can get away with running the stock injectors?

I would stay with the tan tops and make sure that the FMU can get you to 90psi on the fuel at 9psi

K-Town Powder Coating 09-06-2010 08:35 AM

Guess I will need to adjust the AFm then because the tan tops are flooding the car at idel. I pulled the spark plugs last night after the car was just ideling and the plugs were wet with fuel.

olderguy 09-06-2010 08:48 AM

First make sure that your fuel pressure is not being raised at idle and then adjust the contact of the brushes in the AFM. There should not be a problem with 1.8 injectors running rich at idle unless your O2 sensor feed is low or interrupted or the AFM is sending no voltage to the ECU

K-Town Powder Coating 09-13-2010 11:22 AM

So I popped open my extra AFM to see inside. What do I do to lean it out a bit?

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8001/img8891w.jpg

curly 09-13-2010 11:29 AM

It's more of when the flapper opens. You can see the clock spring. Tighten it, and it'll open a little later/harder. Loosen it, and it'll open sooner/easier. The spring tightness also determines how much it's open at idle, so the tighter it is the more closed it is, and I think the leaner it is. Fiddle with it while watch your wideband, you'll see. Feel free to pop the lid on your "good" AFM. I ran mine with hardly any of the glue left on the cover for years. Cover never popped off, and it was spotless in there every time.

K-Town Powder Coating 09-13-2010 11:50 AM

what screw is it that I tighten?? the allen key one?

Braineack 09-13-2010 12:07 PM

need more this:

http://boostedmiata.com/FAQ/fuelpressure_gauge.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/FAQ/fmuhookup.jpg


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