Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. (https://www.miataturbo.net/)
-   DIY Turbo Discussion (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/)
-   -   Ford SVO T3 T04E??? (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/ford-svo-t3-t04e-13190/)

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 10:28 AM

Ford SVO T3 T04E???
 
So i found one of these guys for a good deal.... fresh and rebuilt/hi-temp coated. Anyone run one of these? It is in my price range of $500. Should i grab it? I've heard the SVO turbos are quite nice.... and this one looks brand new (and not 'garage cleaned')

the specs were emailed to me saying "Garrett T3 turbo with 46 TRIM TO4E 51MM INDUCER 75MM EXDUCER and .60 A/R compressor. The TO4E compressor is much more efficent and you will have lower air temps to make more power Exhaust housing is .63 A/R and a high temperature coating. Turbo is internal wastegated."

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...FBG/1d56_3.jpg

and he included a map

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...BG/da06_12.jpg

Splitime 10-08-2007 10:37 AM

It looks like a standard t3... did they hog out the compressor housing for the t4 wheel? Otherwise... its being misrepresented.

I run a t3 60/63 (the SVO/xr4ti/thundercoupe) turbo on my honda... its a nice turbo... but not worth that much.

He's including a map for a straight up t4... which that pictured is not. Even if it has the wheel fit inside the t3 housings... that map will not represent it anymore.

It also isn't internally wastegated... it has the hole... but you'll still need the bolt on housing with the flapper built into it.

Braineack 10-08-2007 10:50 AM

Split, that is the correct flow map.

with a 75mm exducer, it's for sure a t04e.

51^2 / 75^2 x 100 = 46.24 trim

that's all a t3/t4 is, a t3 turbo with a t4 compressor wheel on it.

a standard t3 will always have a 60mm exducer.


the only thing you'd have to worry about it slower spool (but i think it would be fine on your engine) and right now it has no wastegate.


easiest way to put it to rest would be a quick shot of the compressor wheel itself, i could tell you just by looking if it's a t3 or t4 wheel.

Splitime 10-08-2007 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 160756)
Split, that is the correct flow map.

That housing pictured looks like the standard 60ar housing. For some reason I thought the compressor maps where linked to both the wheel and the AR. Considering that they work together somewhat. I realize the wheel design and size controls most of it... but I just wanna link them :p

On a side note... i have a Precision sc50 i'll be trying to rebuild shortly... it would be a nice candidate :p

Braineack 10-08-2007 11:10 AM

I had a T04B S-3 wheel in a standard .42 A/R AirResearch compressor housing.

just a little bit of machine work is all you need.

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 11:23 AM

oh yeah, seller IS including actuator/arm assembly.

But i figured since it is practically new (rebuilt and unused), it'd be worth the extra $$ as opposed to a straight up used turbo.

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 11:25 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 160756)


easiest way to put it to rest would be a quick shot of the compressor wheel itself, i could tell you just by looking if it's a t3 or t4 wheel.

ask and you shall receive...
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...FBG/1704_3.jpg

Braineack 10-08-2007 11:26 AM

one's thing's for sure: it will easily be good for 350rwhp.

yeah looks like a t4 wheel.

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 12:04 PM

how big of a difference does it make that the wg gases go into the exhaust stream? Im not going for some crazy meticulous setup or anything. just simple and effective for decent cost.

Braineack 10-08-2007 12:08 PM

it's fine. it may not be the most ideal perfect thing in the entire world, but it's still very common and nothing to really worry about.

wildfire0310 10-08-2007 12:33 PM

btw i still have that turbo

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 01:33 PM

so think i should pull the trigger on this turbo??

the way i see it is the other (new) turbos i have looked at are all $600+.
If i get a used turbo, im going to send it off for rebuilding anyway... i dont trust used turbos from people i dont know.... im sure that'll be $200+ to rebuild a turbo.

wildfire0310 10-08-2007 01:35 PM


Originally Posted by DropTopDrifter (Post 160827)
so think i should pull the trigger on this turbo??

the way i see it is the other (new) turbos i have looked at are all $600+.
If i get a used turbo, im going to send it off for rebuilding anyway... i dont trust used turbos from people i dont know.... im sure that'll be $200+ to rebuild a turbo.

I am not sure about the price, Brain would be the best on that info. I am not sure how much a good used t3 goes for.

Splitime 10-08-2007 01:37 PM

I can provide the info of a place that does very nice rebuilds (including balancing) down in AZ...

cjernigan 10-08-2007 01:39 PM

T3 turbo rebuild kits are more in the range of $50, my local turbo shop does professional balancing for around $30-35. That shop charges more like $250-350 to rebuild turbos though, thus the reason why I would rebuild my own.

Braineack 10-08-2007 01:39 PM

I paid something like $495 for my T3, which ended up being a t3/t4 (stupid shop), then i swapped over a 50 trim coldside I had, and then spent another $100 and found a super 60 wheel and housing.

then i sold my old parts for about $150.

one thing to ask is if it was built with a 360° thrust bearing. But it looks to be in pretty decent condition.

rebuilding is very easy, it will take someone an hour is he's never done it before (with the right tools). See my writeup in the archives. The wheels are balanced separately so it's not vital to get it balanced as long as you mark the position of the wheels in relation to each other. I've never rebalanced a turbo (4) and never had a problem.

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 02:00 PM

i appreciate the information :)

But it would be my luck to FUBAR something in the process.
This turbo has had the bearings/seals replaced and everything was rebalanced.

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 04:21 PM

oh snaps... i think i may have found a nice internal gate flapper assy. that wont 'clash' the exhaust gasses too badly.... but its $170

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...-023_1_450.jpg

Splitime 10-08-2007 04:28 PM


Originally Posted by DropTopDrifter (Post 160895)
oh snaps... i think i may have found a nice internal gate flapper assy. that wont 'clash' the exhaust gasses too badly.... but its $170

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...-023_1_450.jpg

Looks like the ATP piece? (if so, contact wideopentuning for his discount there) I have a similar piece, but its for gt28 usage.

Dow.tom 10-08-2007 04:31 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 160832)

rebuilding is very easy, it will take someone an hour is he's never done it before (with the right tools). See my writeup in the archives. The wheels are balanced separately so it's not vital to get it balanced as long as you mark the position of the wheels in relation to each other. I've never rebalanced a turbo (4) and never had a problem.


unless he's rebuilding mine, than it takes 3 months... and another 3 months to meet eachother to get it back :) ps when you wanna meet?

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 04:31 PM

yeah it is... but i also just remembered seeing a buyer-beware about ATP.....



Im getting really itchy to go ahead and buy the parts :) .... and then hope my gf doesnt notice.... guess i need to step up and sell some more laptops....

Braineack 10-08-2007 04:35 PM

Nothing wrong with ATP other than the price, WideOpenTuning (Kelly) helps relieve some of the sticker shock.

wildfire0310 10-08-2007 04:35 PM

just sell the JRSC and drive w/o boost for a week or so and get all the parts

then she can't bitch...well as much lol

how is she anyway?

Doppelgänger 10-08-2007 04:49 PM

Oh Jenn... she's doing good. Finally got her car back after being in the bodyshop for over a month. The MSM for concrete splashed on it at her work, then we hit a deer the day before we were going to take it to Magnum. So she ended up getting the nose and mazdaspeed lip replaced and the whole front end repainted and the whole car highspeed buffed/waxed/cleaned and now the car looks better then it did new!

I put the FM intake/TB elbow on along with a Hallman boost controller and now the car sounds like a Leer jet taking off lol.

Im only going to take off the s/c right before i go turbo.... i dont have all the stock parts to go n/a. I've got a couple people that already said they want the JRSC with all the goodies on it sans the intercooler. I jsut need to talk to Thomas about a custom DP, oil line/drain install. I'm almost wondering if i should drop my piping from 2.5" down to 2"..... but that will come later if i need to.

Braineack 10-08-2007 04:55 PM

leave the piping, it will save you a lot of trouble, nothing wrong with it as is.

mazda/nissan 10-08-2007 10:28 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 160832)
The wheels are balanced separately so it's not vital to get it balanced as long as you mark the position of the wheels in relation to each other. I've never rebalanced a turbo (4) and never had a problem.

oops, what if you, say, forgot to mark the wheels? :ugh:

Braineack 10-08-2007 10:54 PM

most likely nothing.

Markp 10-09-2007 11:25 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 160774)
one's thing's for sure: it will easily be good for 350rwhp.

yeah looks like a t4 wheel.

Based on what... no measurement, no frame of reference at all? LOL, T3 and T4 compressor wheels look the same save the actual size. SVO turbos were true T3's... If it does have a 75mm exducer then I would agree that it is a T04E compressor... but otherwise, who knows.

You can't tell just by looking at it. I agree that the numbers sound right though.

Mark

Braineack 10-09-2007 11:36 AM

I've yet to see a t4 wheel with curved blades or vise versa, and it physically looks larger than my super60 wheel, which is that largest of the t3s.

https://www.miataturbo.net/~web1_bra...bo/compare.jpg

that's my old 50trim wheel vs my old t40d wheel, but you get the idea.


Damn Mark, we should have had you come out to the Mazda meet on Wednesday, you could have pointed and laughed at me in person. (yes you really would have if you had been there)

Doppelgänger 10-09-2007 01:52 PM

OK guys.. thanks for the help!! I am now the new owner of that turbo :) To me it was worth the little extra because its been professionally rebuilt and comes with the wastegate/flapper assy. My next thing is to buy that flapper that ATP makes and get my manifold/oil lines..... then its a matter of remocing the s/c and header, installing the turbo and makign a DP...... yummy.

Now i dont know weither i want to get a inlet flange and make the inlet pipe that way.... or send the compressor housing off and have it machines out and a universal sleeve pressed in.....

hustler 10-11-2007 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by DropTopDrifter (Post 160827)
so think i should pull the trigger on this turbo??

the way i see it is the other (new) turbos i have looked at are all $600+.
If i get a used turbo, im going to send it off for rebuilding anyway... i dont trust used turbos from people i dont know.... im sure that'll be $200+ to rebuild a turbo.

what are you going to name it?



I ran that turbo on a 16v vw a few years ago. It spooled early, and made 262 with lots of head room at 14psi.

Doppelgänger 10-11-2007 05:24 PM

i think im gonna name the turbo "Turtle" lol

It's still going to be awhile until i have everything together. Im going to save up for the mani next.

I has a question... but i'll make a new thread if i cant find anything from searching.

Kelly 10-13-2007 02:08 AM

If you need that ATP wastegate setup of just want a better compressor housing let me know.

Doppelgänger 10-13-2007 02:51 PM

yeah, there is no doubt that im going to be goign with the ATP wastegate setup. I told the seller that i need the actuator and hopefully he will remember!

Can i change the compressor housing without changing the wheel or anything? I thought that in order to change a housing, the wheel needed to be changed too.

Braineack 10-13-2007 06:30 PM

as long as the housing is machined to accpet your trim wheel you dont gotta change nothing. but it may just be cheaper to just get an adapter.

i read at cr.net that you got you junk sandwiched, everything getting sorted out?

Doppelgänger 10-15-2007 08:44 AM

yeah, the car is ok... still driveable. Both head lights need to be replaced, both tail lights, rear bumper needs serious refinishing or replacement, bumper brackets, front bumper needs repair and the hood is bent. Nothing looks bad from 20ft away, but upon closer inspection the little things add up. Waiting for State Farm to come look at the car so i can get it in the shop :(


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:58 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands