Ford SVO T3 T04E???
So i found one of these guys for a good deal.... fresh and rebuilt/hi-temp coated. Anyone run one of these? It is in my price range of $500. Should i grab it? I've heard the SVO turbos are quite nice.... and this one looks brand new (and not 'garage cleaned')
the specs were emailed to me saying "Garrett T3 turbo with 46 TRIM TO4E 51MM INDUCER 75MM EXDUCER and .60 A/R compressor. The TO4E compressor is much more efficent and you will have lower air temps to make more power Exhaust housing is .63 A/R and a high temperature coating. Turbo is internal wastegated." http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...FBG/1d56_3.jpg and he included a map http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...BG/da06_12.jpg |
It looks like a standard t3... did they hog out the compressor housing for the t4 wheel? Otherwise... its being misrepresented.
I run a t3 60/63 (the SVO/xr4ti/thundercoupe) turbo on my honda... its a nice turbo... but not worth that much. He's including a map for a straight up t4... which that pictured is not. Even if it has the wheel fit inside the t3 housings... that map will not represent it anymore. It also isn't internally wastegated... it has the hole... but you'll still need the bolt on housing with the flapper built into it. |
Split, that is the correct flow map.
with a 75mm exducer, it's for sure a t04e. 51^2 / 75^2 x 100 = 46.24 trim that's all a t3/t4 is, a t3 turbo with a t4 compressor wheel on it. a standard t3 will always have a 60mm exducer. the only thing you'd have to worry about it slower spool (but i think it would be fine on your engine) and right now it has no wastegate. easiest way to put it to rest would be a quick shot of the compressor wheel itself, i could tell you just by looking if it's a t3 or t4 wheel. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 160756)
Split, that is the correct flow map.
On a side note... i have a Precision sc50 i'll be trying to rebuild shortly... it would be a nice candidate :p |
I had a T04B S-3 wheel in a standard .42 A/R AirResearch compressor housing.
just a little bit of machine work is all you need. |
oh yeah, seller IS including actuator/arm assembly.
But i figured since it is practically new (rebuilt and unused), it'd be worth the extra $$ as opposed to a straight up used turbo. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 160756)
easiest way to put it to rest would be a quick shot of the compressor wheel itself, i could tell you just by looking if it's a t3 or t4 wheel. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...FBG/1704_3.jpg |
one's thing's for sure: it will easily be good for 350rwhp.
yeah looks like a t4 wheel. |
how big of a difference does it make that the wg gases go into the exhaust stream? Im not going for some crazy meticulous setup or anything. just simple and effective for decent cost.
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it's fine. it may not be the most ideal perfect thing in the entire world, but it's still very common and nothing to really worry about.
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btw i still have that turbo
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so think i should pull the trigger on this turbo??
the way i see it is the other (new) turbos i have looked at are all $600+. If i get a used turbo, im going to send it off for rebuilding anyway... i dont trust used turbos from people i dont know.... im sure that'll be $200+ to rebuild a turbo. |
Originally Posted by DropTopDrifter
(Post 160827)
so think i should pull the trigger on this turbo??
the way i see it is the other (new) turbos i have looked at are all $600+. If i get a used turbo, im going to send it off for rebuilding anyway... i dont trust used turbos from people i dont know.... im sure that'll be $200+ to rebuild a turbo. |
I can provide the info of a place that does very nice rebuilds (including balancing) down in AZ...
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T3 turbo rebuild kits are more in the range of $50, my local turbo shop does professional balancing for around $30-35. That shop charges more like $250-350 to rebuild turbos though, thus the reason why I would rebuild my own.
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I paid something like $495 for my T3, which ended up being a t3/t4 (stupid shop), then i swapped over a 50 trim coldside I had, and then spent another $100 and found a super 60 wheel and housing.
then i sold my old parts for about $150. one thing to ask is if it was built with a 360° thrust bearing. But it looks to be in pretty decent condition. rebuilding is very easy, it will take someone an hour is he's never done it before (with the right tools). See my writeup in the archives. The wheels are balanced separately so it's not vital to get it balanced as long as you mark the position of the wheels in relation to each other. I've never rebalanced a turbo (4) and never had a problem. |
i appreciate the information :)
But it would be my luck to FUBAR something in the process. This turbo has had the bearings/seals replaced and everything was rebalanced. |
oh snaps... i think i may have found a nice internal gate flapper assy. that wont 'clash' the exhaust gasses too badly.... but its $170
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...-023_1_450.jpg |
Originally Posted by DropTopDrifter
(Post 160895)
oh snaps... i think i may have found a nice internal gate flapper assy. that wont 'clash' the exhaust gasses too badly.... but its $170
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...-023_1_450.jpg |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 160832)
rebuilding is very easy, it will take someone an hour is he's never done it before (with the right tools). See my writeup in the archives. The wheels are balanced separately so it's not vital to get it balanced as long as you mark the position of the wheels in relation to each other. I've never rebalanced a turbo (4) and never had a problem. unless he's rebuilding mine, than it takes 3 months... and another 3 months to meet eachother to get it back :) ps when you wanna meet? |
yeah it is... but i also just remembered seeing a buyer-beware about ATP.....
Im getting really itchy to go ahead and buy the parts :) .... and then hope my gf doesnt notice.... guess i need to step up and sell some more laptops.... |
Nothing wrong with ATP other than the price, WideOpenTuning (Kelly) helps relieve some of the sticker shock.
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just sell the JRSC and drive w/o boost for a week or so and get all the parts
then she can't bitch...well as much lol how is she anyway? |
Oh Jenn... she's doing good. Finally got her car back after being in the bodyshop for over a month. The MSM for concrete splashed on it at her work, then we hit a deer the day before we were going to take it to Magnum. So she ended up getting the nose and mazdaspeed lip replaced and the whole front end repainted and the whole car highspeed buffed/waxed/cleaned and now the car looks better then it did new!
I put the FM intake/TB elbow on along with a Hallman boost controller and now the car sounds like a Leer jet taking off lol. Im only going to take off the s/c right before i go turbo.... i dont have all the stock parts to go n/a. I've got a couple people that already said they want the JRSC with all the goodies on it sans the intercooler. I jsut need to talk to Thomas about a custom DP, oil line/drain install. I'm almost wondering if i should drop my piping from 2.5" down to 2"..... but that will come later if i need to. |
leave the piping, it will save you a lot of trouble, nothing wrong with it as is.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 160832)
The wheels are balanced separately so it's not vital to get it balanced as long as you mark the position of the wheels in relation to each other. I've never rebalanced a turbo (4) and never had a problem.
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most likely nothing.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 160774)
one's thing's for sure: it will easily be good for 350rwhp.
yeah looks like a t4 wheel. You can't tell just by looking at it. I agree that the numbers sound right though. Mark |
I've yet to see a t4 wheel with curved blades or vise versa, and it physically looks larger than my super60 wheel, which is that largest of the t3s.
https://www.miataturbo.net/~web1_bra...bo/compare.jpg that's my old 50trim wheel vs my old t40d wheel, but you get the idea. Damn Mark, we should have had you come out to the Mazda meet on Wednesday, you could have pointed and laughed at me in person. (yes you really would have if you had been there) |
OK guys.. thanks for the help!! I am now the new owner of that turbo :) To me it was worth the little extra because its been professionally rebuilt and comes with the wastegate/flapper assy. My next thing is to buy that flapper that ATP makes and get my manifold/oil lines..... then its a matter of remocing the s/c and header, installing the turbo and makign a DP...... yummy.
Now i dont know weither i want to get a inlet flange and make the inlet pipe that way.... or send the compressor housing off and have it machines out and a universal sleeve pressed in..... |
Originally Posted by DropTopDrifter
(Post 160827)
so think i should pull the trigger on this turbo??
the way i see it is the other (new) turbos i have looked at are all $600+. If i get a used turbo, im going to send it off for rebuilding anyway... i dont trust used turbos from people i dont know.... im sure that'll be $200+ to rebuild a turbo. I ran that turbo on a 16v vw a few years ago. It spooled early, and made 262 with lots of head room at 14psi. |
i think im gonna name the turbo "Turtle" lol
It's still going to be awhile until i have everything together. Im going to save up for the mani next. I has a question... but i'll make a new thread if i cant find anything from searching. |
If you need that ATP wastegate setup of just want a better compressor housing let me know.
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yeah, there is no doubt that im going to be goign with the ATP wastegate setup. I told the seller that i need the actuator and hopefully he will remember!
Can i change the compressor housing without changing the wheel or anything? I thought that in order to change a housing, the wheel needed to be changed too. |
as long as the housing is machined to accpet your trim wheel you dont gotta change nothing. but it may just be cheaper to just get an adapter.
i read at cr.net that you got you junk sandwiched, everything getting sorted out? |
yeah, the car is ok... still driveable. Both head lights need to be replaced, both tail lights, rear bumper needs serious refinishing or replacement, bumper brackets, front bumper needs repair and the hood is bent. Nothing looks bad from 20ft away, but upon closer inspection the little things add up. Waiting for State Farm to come look at the car so i can get it in the shop :(
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