Fresh 1.9L Build , engine shuddering , rev hunting , won't hold steady RPM
Hello,
I have finally fired up my fresh 1.9L build! Managed to get it half running in the rubbish basemap provided to me from the builder of the ECU (Extra EFI UK) Then I had a remote tune booked last Friday.....I know it's not ideal in comparison to getting it RR tuned but he was going to make me a safe map with conservative timing and fuel just so I could drive about and run the engine in no boost etc AN hour into the remote tune he requested if I could hold the RPMs at 2k while he adjusts parts of the map and I then found I couldn't.... When trying to hold 2K the car shudders and drops 200rpm then goes away 2000rpm , 1800 , 2000, 1800 and so on... Everytime it "shudders" AFR goes to 17-18 also From a bone cold start for the first 30-45 seconds I can hold the revs and it holds them perfectly Ive leak down tested the engine and had 5% leak down on all cylinders I have had the car running and shot brake cleaner at the injector seals to see if the revs increased (no change in RPM) I just want to upload the map/a few logs on here just to see if you can see anything that I've missed When looking at the logs on MLV I can't see anything ECU wise other than AFR that is changing when the car shudders/runs lean I just want to be able to rule out an ECU setting or something interfering before I rip everything apart Hope you guys can help Spec MK1 1.8 Block Stock crank Maspeeding Conrods Supertech pistons Wiseco Rings ACL Bearings ARP mains ARP Headstuds Boundary Pump OEM Headgasket BP4W Head (new seals, guides , skimmed , pressure tested Stock cams stiffer valve springs Squaretop UK inlet MK2 throttle body and IACV Stock rail Bosch EV14 640cc injectors Coolant reroute GfB developments Toyota COP kit kraken manifold GT2860RS Kraken 3" downpipe Kraken 3" system Mtech cooler kit Extra EFI PNPAEM 30-4900 Failsafe WidebandGM IATAEM 3port MAC valve |
The lean spike is probably a misfire (not actually lean). Probably an injector or spark issue that is only happening when it gets hot?
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What are your plugs and what’s the gap?
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Thanks for the fast replies!
Luckily I have lots of spare parts (I have another working parts car that used to be my daily) I removed the COPs setup and went back to OEM coil and leads and problem still persists Swapped out the injectors for some standard maroon ones Still happening I've ordered all 3 tyres of injector seal (top hat to rail , injector to top hat , and the bottom cushions for the inlet) Maybe it's sucking in air into the injector and not spraying? |
Originally Posted by c3hutson
(Post 1595771)
What are your plugs and what’s the gap?
BKR7E haven't touched the gap at all |
Where's the tune and logs?
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1595781)
Where's the tune and logs?
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Did you gap them before install? Your supposed to gap them before install. I had a slight miss when I first got my turbo going because I gapped one of my plugs incorrectly
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Originally Posted by c3hutson
(Post 1595784)
Did you gap them before install? Your supposed to gap them before install. I had a slight miss when I first got my turbo going because I gapped one of my plugs incorrectly
What's the recommended gap for the plugs? |
Originally Posted by Lee Shah
(Post 1595787)
I haven't touched them
What's the recommended gap for the plugs? |
Originally Posted by c3hutson
(Post 1595789)
I can’t remember. Google that shit brother
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Gap should be .030.
Have you tried to turn EGO completely off? |
Originally Posted by der_vierte
(Post 1595791)
Gap should be .030.
Have you tried to turn EGO completely off? I will upload the map/logs later I will try all of the suggestions and get back to you all I will also upload a video if I can of what it's doing cold Vs warm Thanks everyone 🤘🤘 |
2 Attachment(s)
Here are the unfinished tune and log attached
you can see at beginning of log when cold its holds revs and afr doesnt spike once warm it starts acting up i tried turning EGO off and made no change i gapped plugs down to .030 still no change here is a video of it running to give you idea Many thanks in advance |
I cant view the logs, but are you running closed loop or open loop idle? How about your idle VE settings. It sounds like a tune issues bc when it's warming up it has warm up enrichment that can be making it run decent, but once that ends it's based off your idle settings. I would run open loop idle for now just to get it running ok and then change to closed loop once you can tune more.
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Originally Posted by Jmatt07
(Post 1595816)
I cant view the logs, but are you running closed loop or open loop idle? How about your idle VE settings. It sounds like a tune issues bc when it's warming up it has warm up enrichment that can be making it run decent, but once that ends it's based off your idle settings. I would run open loop idle for now just to get it running ok and then change to closed loop once you can tune more.
I wanted to rule out any issues with that so currently the valve is switched off |
Originally Posted by Jmatt07
(Post 1595816)
I cant view the logs, but are you running closed loop or open loop idle? How about your idle VE settings. It sounds like a tune issues bc when it's warming up it has warm up enrichment that can be making it run decent, but once that ends it's based off your idle settings. I would run open loop idle for now just to get it running ok and then change to closed loop once you can tune more.
I wanted to rule out any issues with that so currently the valve is switched off |
Select your entire fuel table and multiply by 1.15, see if that helps. If it’s running ok when cold, the extra fuel from warm up enrichments may be all you need. 1.15 will give you 15% everywhere. It’ll run rich where it’s currently ok, but it’s enough fuel where if I’m right, it should run better.
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1 Attachment(s)
Have tried richening up the entire map and problem still persists
i have attached another log |
Here is an sound check of what the running issue sounds like
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