Frozen and stripped Exhaust nut
4 Attachment(s)
FTL
... ughhh this is such a pain in the ass, and I just bashed my finger in and it hurts like hell. Not quite sure where to go from here. I tried welding my two nuts together so they could be free, but it was a no go. Then I tried welding nut in front to the stud, and that was also a no go. The last weld made it so that the first nut could spin for awhile but it got stuck after a few turns and stripped also. Now I am down 2 nuts and a stud and not quite sure what to do next. It is too tight for vice grips. Might try to make a slit with a sawzall or something. |
did you pb blaster the hell out of it? or try to heat it up
|
usually when i expect problems i try to spray them a couple days before hand, but i must say i live in PA and mine were nowhere near as rusty as yours
|
victory is mine!
1 Attachment(s)
I found the smallest vicegrips I could in the garage, and amazingly they did the trick. I think the heat from welding helped a lot.
|
weld a larger nut at the end. And really weld the hell out of it. Take breaks regularly to not heat things up too much. Use more heat.
|
Originally Posted by akaryrye
(Post 348772)
I tried welding my two nuts together
|
heh, stick welding.
|
u should get a tig machine. much easier to weld small things and no stupid slag to deal with
|
Originally Posted by supersaiyan93
(Post 348946)
heh, stick welding.
FWIW, heating it would have made that "easy". There are a couple ways to play this as those are disimilar metals. For one, you could have just heated the stud red hot with an oxy-acetaline setup to break the rust/corrosion that was causing it to not turn. That would have made it doable with pliers... Or heat the engine and then cool the stud with liquid CO2 by using a thing of compressed air turned upside down. I could describe a few other techniques as well, but you got it already. |
Originally Posted by scottv
(Post 348933)
OMG! OUCH! :giggle:
|
Originally Posted by akaryrye
(Post 348772)
I tried welding my two nuts together so they could be free
|
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 348954)
Fluxcore MIG.
|
I bought a set of these for problematic nuts http://www.nextag.com/Irwin-394001-B...68/prices-html
|
I am trying to avoid this in the future (though here in the southeast we dont have NEARLY as much rust as up north, and I had no problem at 100k miles removing the stock exhaust manifold) so I bought a set of exhaust hardware from MiataRoadster. Came with zinc coated studs that are slightly longer than stock, and copper nuts and stainless washers. It will look pretty at least with my RB header, until I can get a BEGi manifold to go on it, perhaps with a snail attached...
|
Holy crap that looks painful.
|
Impact, the easiest way to remove rusted on bolts w/o breaking them.
|
Dude, clean that engine compartment please! At least simple green it and scrub a little.
|
In the future, Craftsman makes a socket set that is specifically designed to get shit like that off.
Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out - Model 52166 at Sears.com They work great. |
Originally Posted by thymer
(Post 349887)
Dude, clean that engine compartment please! At least simple green it and scrub a little.
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 350032)
In the future, Craftsman makes a socket set that is specifically designed to get shit like that off.
Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out - Model 52166 at Sears.com They work great. I stripped a flywheel bolt trying to get it off on a Sentra I was doing an engine swap on. I was SOOO pissed. I ended up using these and it gripped. Ended up using a 1/2" drive ratchet with a cheater bar to get the bolt loose, and the extractor held. Was a bitch getting the bolt out of the extractor though. ;) |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:35 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands