getting there... more progress
 

http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l191/o0Quicksilver0o/

thats as far as i am now. everything is done but the downpipe and mid pipe and to fluid her up. well and then handing my car over to the local megasquirt guru. :bigtu:

1/2 a year into the making and i want her running soo bad. driving a stock base model civic everyday is owning me :td: let me know what you think

whoa, that touches my bad place.

lol

Hey i saw that rollbar on HMT a while back, looking good.
How'd that manifold come out when you were all done with it? Think it's going to flow nice?
I like the reducer going to the compressor, doin it right.

oh wow, that looks like such a sick lil project car. Have not checked out your album til now.

props.

I bet it will scream down the road quite well

Its ahaaaa a very nice.

thx guys, little more info since its only pics. its got all around poly bushings on a stock suspension :( for now. took out about 300 pounds out. Hopeing for 200-220 whp but well see. mainly my track car for auto x/drift events. should be a fun car. but itll be alot more work till i have it complete.

Did you build that Roll bar? If so what did you use to bend the tubing?

I built my own. Here are some pics before it was powder coated.

http://members.aol.com/sbrian2/bar1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/sbrian2/bar2.jpg
http://members.aol.com/sbrian2/bar3.jpg

I used 1.75" X .120 wall DOM tubing and bender like this:
http://www.medfordtools.com/benders/m3b/01.jpg

very nice! any pics where the main hoop mounts to the chassis?

Thats tight dude. You should make em and sell em.

Mine mounts just like the hard dog bars do. The main difference is mine required very little cutting of the interior trim panels and it has a 10* backward rake above the seatbelt guides to get the top bar further from the seat and ultimately your head.

sbrian, how much do you have invested in your bender? Ive wanted one like that for years, just to cheap to buy it :(

I borrowed mine from a friend, but that one is $295 according to their site but that does not include die sets which range from $115-395 per size. :eek5:

ones like that range in price from about $275 (for a chinese one) to $650 or so for a cadillac. There is someone on ebay selling decent ones for about $350 that I've used before (school had one) and thought it was sufficient. The bender itself isn't the expensive part... it's the dies. Make sure whichever one you want comes with all the dies you could ever need.

looks like i gotta throw it away. the events i will be running at require an already appoved model. so looks like i either pay to have it tested or buy a hard dog. fucking retarded :( so when i found that out i stopped working on it, so there are not mounting plates welded to it or backing plates made for that matter. :sadwavey: haha anyone want a style bar :gay:

oh and if anyone wondered.. the paint job is going to be white with a solid black stripe like my old paint job just different colors. time to fab up a front strut tower/firewall brace and get a lower front tie bar. other than that thats pretty much got the fab work done for it... oh and weld some aluminum to my hood where my headlights used to be. but that will probly wait a while... who needs a body to go throw some smoke.

Hey what events do you speak of that require an already approved model? I was about to have a bar built by a shop and have postponed that due to hearing that from others as well.

Oh snap Im loving your set-up, By chance what turbo is that you are using ?

That's just fucking stupid. Who approves rollbars? The SCCA for sure doesn't and I don't think that NASA does either. As long as you build it to spec and it passes tech then you should be good to go.

Who do you run with?

thanks man, its a 300zx turbo. i "hear" they are a good flowing t25 and still keep a pretty quick spool... but we will see. mid feb ill have a dyno on this thing.

Thats cool man, Im using a nissan turbo as well the sr20 trim t25, It should offer good spool "hopefully"

that was my understanding... for inspection they usually require one area to not be painted so they can verify DOM material and they will usually want a hole drilled in the bar (1/8") so they can measure wall thickness. It's also not too complicated to measure pressure pad area (required number of in^2 at contact point). by saying you must buy a pre-approved bar they are basically saying "we don't want you to race unless you have a checking account with X amount" or "We are far too lazy to spend an extra 3 minutes at tech".

Which intake manifold is that?

This sounds ---- and lazy like a Miata club. :) I wonder if a couple of hard dog stickers would help?

Jay

+1 for the drilling to check the tubing and I think they check the welds and radius of each bend or something else. Ive only had "experience" with 2 cages needing to be tested, and I think thats what they checked.

if you really are going to toss it Im sure someone would be happy to buy it from you.

do a kirk sticker, they are approved and no one know what they look like lol

haha a harddog sticker. the intake manifold is my own as everything on this car is. nothing premade here. down the paint and gauge pod to the turbo manifold and intake manifold. ill even have to make some headlights for it too.

for the roll bar i am going by word of mouth. i heard of general specifications and went by those, just kinda good guide lines but then i hear people i run with saying that wont pass tech. i think their just jealous that i made one thats stronger and is 1/4 of the price. oh well, its just extra weight right now. need to get it running and tuned before i can do anything in it.

what do you guys think about this... i have a viscous that i need to last as long as possible. i need to last thru some dyno runs and getting around town. could i just go with tires that provide the least amount of traction in hopes to help my diff last longer? or would that be pretty pointless? broke 3 on the civic and i dont want to fuck with changing them out anymore. you know what... after doing half ass research for a year for the rx7 clutch pack lsd conversion i STILL dont have it straight what parts i need. :gay:

you know what... after doing half ass research for a year for the rx7 clutch pack lsd conversion i STILL dont have it straight what parts i need..


yea me either......

lol me to! Im glad Im not alone. some people make it sound so easy. but icehawk at m.net can lay it out pretty well.

you need the pinion shaft from a rx7 89-92 but then it changed.. you might still get it to work, dont get the turbo ones. the half shafts are ok on 1.8's but you need to do a dingy mafliper conversion and then get a pumpkin from any rx7. i think 2nd gens work. not the t2 and the driveshaft out of a 240 and a little grinding on the housing and bam your done!!! :cool:

disclaimer : complete bullshit

Looks pretty good man. I admire someone taking there time to do it right the first time. Keep the pics coming. I'm interested to see how she pans out.
-Michael-